Aussie Ford

I hate to say it Mondeoman but pick n pull $5 +/-...... AF

Hey check out my post on the off topic forum about what I'm doing next week..... And PDXSVT I'll see you sometime tomorrow. AF

Attached are some pics of a 1936 box car that a team of us from the Travis Manion Foundation will be turning into a bunk house for the Crystal Peaks Youth Ranch in Bend, OR next week. OK so it is a bit rough but a little putty n paint, some curtains on the windows....... For added interest check out the Travis Manion Foundation site www.travismanion.org these are the people my son (aka Jarhead) and I will be working with on this project. Regards, AF

Where are you located? AF

Interesting info I will check that air box as I did have that off to change the DPFE and did loosen up the clamps when I twisted the resonator out of the way to change the little RF noise suppressor on the coil pack. I'm pretty sure that I tightened up the clamps, but I could have missed something. AF

Welcome back and you have done a very nice job on your ride...... We like Cougars here after all they are 2dr Contours AF

I might have a little bit of time this weekend..... Is the battery charged? No side skirts are ok for the Baja tour at this point. I found out Randy needs a clutch job not an engine. AF

Thanks Terry I'll check those out. Right now Mondeoman is using it. He might be becoming a slushbox convert...... LOL AF

No the 118 code just came about a few months ago and doesn't always come on. It is associated with the ECM temp sensor and causes the fans to run for a few minutes. At some point I'll have to change out that sensor but except for the CEL at start up it works ok. I installed the dual fans shortly after I got the car that is a simple plug n play mod. Always remember this is a Cotour and one thing doesn't need to be associated to another just because it occurs at the same time. AF

No it actually started with my replacement of the DPFE for the CEL issues. I was just checking my Ford disc and it says for that symptom: Rough Running, Surge, Hesitation, Poor Part Throttle Performance when Hot -(I think that describes it.) It could be EGR valve malfunction or erratic operation. A dirty EGR valve. A malfunctioning EVR solenoid. Leaky Pressure/Vacuum hose(s) to DPFE. All of which could be associated with those CEL codes 327 & 332.That gives me a place to start as I have extras of all of those parts. What do you think? AF

The other day on a run I lost the fuel pump and replaced it. I don't think this has anything to do with this issue but since this all came about at the same time I am mentioning it. In fact just after changing the fuel pump I got the CEL and found 3 codes: 118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open 327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low 332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently I did nothing for the 118 code as this has been hapening at start up for a long time and once the engine warms up the light gose out. I have had no performance issues with this code. For the 327 & 332 I changed the DPFE and that cleared those codes. BUT now am experiencing this rough runnng around 1750 to 3k rpms with it being worse around 2k. Any ideas? Could it be a weak coil pack? I have had that before and this seems different. The engine just seems to stumble a bit while at speed. Not as harsh as a misfire. AF

The other day I got a new interface connector to install. Maybe then we can get those codes. AF

It comes to mind that many people don't know CEL codes and I usually try to post the meanings when I talk about them. Being a 95 these are OBD1 3 digit codes. My two codes: 327 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was low. 332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittently. Many times I get a 118 when I first start the car. I don't understand this since the car runs fine and the CEL goes out after it reaches temp. 118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open. AF

Mike thanks for posting those fine pics of the run...... I suppose I should tell a bit of a story now.... The PDX folks arrived at Mikey's place, it is really nice. And the Tours went out to pasture: Mikey's Tour Casandra really wanted to join in but wasn't feeling quite up to it ...... girls.. hiding out behind a Monte Carlo All was good so we headed up to Spiffy's. I in the 4 banger was crusing along around 75mph when it felt like I was loosing power. I put the pedel to the metal and nothing happened. I looked down and saw my tach go to 0 thinking it was just a fluke I put it in neutral and tried to start it, but it just turned over and wouldn't fire. I worked my way to the shoulder Jarhead was following me. We tinkered a bit found a loose ground but that was not the issue. Jarhead contacted the others and they came back to lend a hand. We determined it was the fuel pump and that is something not even I could overcome right then. so I called AAA. Surprisingly they were there sooner than usual. Hooked up the 95 and took it to Mike's place. Chloe and I got in the SVT that PDXSVT was driving and off we went. Had a good time at lunch at Spiffy's then headed to Randall for desert: That is a nice little run and just about right to get one ready for pie & ice cream: We went up the road for a photo shoot and sadly said goodbye to our friends from up north. We southerners continued south to Cougar then on to Mike's place. That is a fun run for sure and it will separate the SVT's from the SE's..... Right Jarhead.... LOL Once at Mikey's I put the 95 to bed for the night and the PDXers went home. The next day I went to Pick n Pull and got another fuel pump and of course other goodies.... I mean I was already there so why not check out all of the other Tours and Stiques..... Right? Once Jarhead and I got to Mikey's place yes it really did only take 14 min to change the pump since all I had to do was swap the assemblies. You just pop out the rear seat bottom, disconnect power and fuel lines, knock off the retainer ring, and pull the assembly. Really not that big of a deal. I suppose it would have taken about 20 min if I was swapping the actual pump motors. The 95 wasn't done with me yet just to let me know who's in control it threw me a CEL on the way home which turned out to be P327, & P332: I changed the DPFE and that took care of it. I mentioned that I'm going to have to not do that run again...... Some of you may remember that last time we did that, and I locked my keys in the car...... but one of the Northern fellas managed to open the door using a branch and hitting the unlock button through the moon roof. BTW I have never locked my keys in a vehicle before. All in all a very nice time and next time I hope to see you there too. Now some of you may think the car troubles were a bad thing but, Loosing the fuel pump when I had my support group with me was much better than my wife loosing it in the middle of an intersection in town. And when I went to the Pic n Pull I had a coupon for $20 off and found a pair of sideskirts for the 95 in the correct color. It was a good time! AF

Well HAPPY BIRTHDAY ANYWAY !!! we will miss you too, but we do understand and there will be another time. AF

Just for now lets plan for around High Noon if that works for everyone. I'll call Mikey and check with the Jarhead. AF

9/27 OK for anyone else....? Shotwell Aussie Ford you? And where do we meet up at? Spiffies maybe?

Good answer Buddy. With the VCT 2.0L one has to remember to reset the cam timing when replacing the belt too. Mikey and I know that the hard way. AF

Hope he used the blue loc-tight....

I'd have used a Mondeo part if I could have found one....... There was only one 95 2.0L listed at Pic n Pull in our area, and when I got to the yard the car was gone.... So I had to reinstall the one I had.... darn! I'll have to keep an eye out and get one soon. The part may last a while but it will drive me nutz till I get it replaced. I originally installed that only about three years ago. Don't know why they crack, but I had a 454 that used to do that to me too. I did install the spring clip on the connector so didn't need that zip tie again. Also stopped by Harbor Freight and picked up a set of E sockets (on sale $8.99 1/4" set) the studs that go into the head take an E7. These sockets are the female of a male Torx. I did find a good set of Mystique door panels not broken on the back edge at the screws, and even got the door handle bezel that was not broken at that little bar behind the lock button. So the trip was still ok. Everything went back together uneventfully, bolts are torqued to 13ft lbs. On the road test I had no issues so I hope Mondeoman's suggestions was the fix. It is interesting that suttle differences between cars even in the same model year can be found. His CPS was held in place by a 10mm bolt while mine was that torx screw. AF

OK here's my saga so far..... First I hooked up a scanner to check if there were any codes..... found none. Per Mondeoman's suggestion, I got a crank sensor at my local AP store $5 off Then I got started by putting the car on ramps so I could access both top and bottom of the engine to see if I could find it. It is located on the radiator side of the engine back by the flywheel. Now Mondeoman did say that it was a PIA job and he didn't understate that any! Once I found it I had to figure how to get to it. While I could see it from the bottom I couldn't get to it from there........ Well I might have been able to if I had removed the cat from the exhaust manifold to the tail pipe. To me that seemed to be a harder route to go. So I started making a hole from topside...... Move air intake resonator out of the way. Remove coolant bypass tube from front of heat shield. Remove manifold heat shield. Remove exhaust manifold and O2 sensor together. While removing the exhaust manifold I found a hair line crack in it, now I have to go get one of those and they are 95 specific. It is held in place by a 40 torx screw now you just have to get on it...... I tried a couple of ways the flex screw driver worked best. The old sensor just took a bit of gentle twisting with some WD40. I squirted the new one also, to get it to go in easy. Putting the screw back in the hole was a bit of a trick too. But once in the hole the rest went ok using that flex driver. Now to get a new manifold and put the rest back together...... Tip when removing the exhaust manifold remove all of the studs/ the ones for the manifold to the head are a 40torx on the tip. I didn't have any torx sockets so I used a 5mm socket on them. Stopping by Harbor Freight in the morning to get the correct socket to put them back in. The ones for manifold to CAT are 8mm and came out ok with a little PB Blaster help. More to follow....... AF

I'd check Rock Auto or your local ford dealer. Part that wasn't mentioned is the cable ends could also be bad. Search for info on those here. AF

Sometime tomorrow I'll call you. Right now I'm having an adventure of my own check out Terry's forum. AF

Let's try for 9/27 what do you say to that?

Thanks Gents, Oh sure Bill come up with a PIA solution........ why not something simple like change the air filter or TPS, or ???? And Terry, I think most people would agree with you, but you say that like you didn't have a part in it....... That don't play here or in Peoria ! It's success has your fingerprints all over it AF