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dub last won the day on June 21 2010

dub had the most liked content!

About dub

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  • Location
    St Paul, MN

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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 SVT Contour
  1. thanks! I'm hoping to have time for a look see tomorrow.
  2. yes it matches road speed, fluid looks normal, noises and vibration now are real bad. hard right turns it goes away, so now I must think that it is a bad wheel bearing. I'll look this weekend, thanks! sorry,I may have paniced, the shiz's waist deep over hear and the waves are picking up in size, if you know what I mean.
  3. just lately I have been hearing a noise, a very loud noise coming, from what I have deduced being transmitted by the transmission or diff. The noise is audible from the cabin of the vehice @ 10mph give or take, more so than standing next to it outside. It gets louder as I increase my speed, and @ around 40mph it seems to resonate through the steering wheel. The noise sounds like a dull drill bit trying to cut through some hard assed metal, you know the sound if you've done this. I've gone through the suspension, the steering, the half shafts, and narrowed it down the the trans. The car driv
  4. dub

    Quick question

    Instead of looking for something like the kit, that you may have a hard time finding (if you look I suggest Google) why not make something that will work and can be bought anywhere. I suggest going to Menards or Homedepot or Lowes, ect... and buying some clamps instead of the clips to hold the dash in-place while the glue dries. As for the glue, try the construction adheasive. It's used for glue'n OSB to joists on roofing jobs. It withstands heat and stays firm for a long time.
  5. Nothing higher than 14.4 volts, anything less is considered normal.
  6. Sorry to hi jack, but my car has a Pat Kelly sticker in the drivers door jamb since before I had it. Green w/ white shamrock.
  7. The area to shoot for when using the slim jim is right over the door handle. Have you take'n the door off the hinges and having someone hold it while you get all of the screws out of the door panel? W/a door knob screw driver it is do-able. You know the bent kind that gets into tight spaces.
  8. I have a Passenger side mechanism in the trash (pass front) I can have pics tomorrow. If you want it, it's yers. The garbage man comes on Thursdays.
  9. looks easy 'nuff to install, but will it really do as it states it will? I wonder what type of gains it would give in MPG and the improvement of the losses due to friction/wear of oil w/ some mileage on it?
  10. You will need a helper for this one. I took the door off the hinges on mine. unscrewed as many interior door panel screws from the inside, then went under the door ( this is when you need the helper to hold the door) when it's pulled off the hinges and unscrewed the bottom part of the panel. Cut back as much of the foam as you can w/a putty knife. Hope you can get far enough up inside the door to manually move one of the latch bars there. I didn't have a helper, and I did it fine, although when I opened the door it dropped alittle and hit me in the head. The best bet is to get near the latch
  11. Thanks for that Terry. By the way, O'Riley's has that clamp pincher, works well and costs $10.
  12. 1999 SilFro SVT W/2.5l original engine and has 92,000 miles on it. BAT trans w/ key'd tower, roller bearings on shifter forks, quaife atb diff, installing new BAT struts and other suspension stuff like ball joints, etc.. doing some painting now so if you drive by the alley way you'll see half a car sitting there. I'm the 3rd owner, and I believe the only one of the three that cared for this car. I towed it back from Ohio and started w/ getting a trans so it was drivable.
  13. go under the glove box and pull back the carpet from the corner on the door side. sometimes the little connector gets covered up.
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