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CSVT#49 last won the day on March 18 2012

CSVT#49 had the most liked content!


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    1998 Contour SVT
  1. My issue is my cars power distribution block harness and interior harness are pre 3/98 vintage since my cars built date is 3/25/97. However the replacement engine harness I have is a post 3/98 harness. So there are slight differences with some of the circuits. I think I’ve isolated it to the PATS and clutch switch interface to the starter relay coil circuit ground and the VSS signal circuit that feeds the cruise control, instrument cluster, and ECM.
  2. I think I’m piecing it together. I’ve got the connector views from the service manual CD and it shows the possible wire colors and circuit ID’s. I’ve been comparing them to what I have and matching circuit ID’s from the C421 ECM connector and the C3001 connector and doing continuity tests to verify. Still would be nice to have a full schematic to trace wires though.
  3. Been a while since I’ve posted on here... I’ve searched around the ole interwebs and on the forum with limited success. I’m trying to get my hands on the engine bay harness wire schematics for an early 98 E0 2.5L Contour and a 98.5 E1 2.5L Contour schematic. I had received a replacement harness for my car on trade a while back and didn’t think twice as I was told it was a E0 harness. It had the green knock sensor connector and the correct shift tower connector foe the reverse light. However here I am 9yrs later and I’m chasing electrical gremlins. I have the service manual CD, which is really quite garbage when your trying to trace a wire. That’s said I found enough detail to know that the wiring for the clutch switch back through the square connector, C3001, does not match with what it should to complete the circuit back to the starter relay. So I’m putting this post out there so that I can hopefully identify what harness I am dealing with and try to re-pin/re-wire it accordingly to make it work. The square connector, C3001, is fully populated so the harness I have is not a 99+ harness. Thanks for the help!
  4. Just thought I would update this thread. I went ahead and purchased an Aeromotive 3/8" SAE quick connect to AN-08 port adapter (p/n 15118). It is the correct size. Here are the pics to show it... Also here are my other goodes to go along with it...
  5. Not sure what the deal is but it wouldn't let me edit and add a link properly to my post to my build thread over on CEG.... http://www.contour.org/CEG-vb/showthread.php?51628-49-s-new-powerplant-has-arrived-let-the-build-begin&p=750348#post750348 copy and past I guess...
  6. It started out as an NPG stage II kit with the upgraded Garrett turbo. However I'm not satisfied with some of the pipe layout and the intercooler setup. So I'm building some of my own piping to make the setup how I want it. I'm familiar with Garrett turbos and actually have direct contacts there so I'm most likely going to stay with a Garrett turbo. I have quite a lengthy build thread on <acronym title="Contour.Org">CEG</acronym> under the 3L section. Here is the link, CEG-vb/showthread.php?51628-49-s-new-powerplant-has-arrived-let-the-build-begin&p=750348#post750348'>http://www.contour.o...0348#post750348
  7. Dom maybe you should have a little history on my car and build. First off I choose E85 for its ability to get me to higher horsepower levels with higher compression without denotation while under boost. I've replaced the entire fuel system on the car. I'm running 1000cc Injector Dynamic injectors, Aeromotive 13101 pressure regulator, Aeromotive A1000 18668 fuel pump with a 100 micro ss filter, 25 micron SS in-line fuel filter and I'm creating all new fuel lines with PTFE SS braided lines to support the E85. I also checked on the fuel tank and it's capable of handling E85, but I'm buying a new one anyway. I could care less about fuel economy. I want E85 for it's horsepower potential. I own a 97 Civic DX for a DD that gets me 35-40mpg. This car and my Camaro are my "fun" cars rac74 my target power level is 600bhp. I've got a Garrett T3/T4 60 trim .63A/R turbo, but I trying to find a compressor map for it as I think it's not going to be the right turbo for my setup. I may end up selling it and picking up a GT3582R turbo instead.
  8. So it's looking at your link that part is a 1/4" SAE quick disconnect port. I'm confused as I measured the end of the line with a caliper and it was pretty much right on at 0.375" all the way up. I'm going to a AN-08 line and will be using E85. So I'll be using a PTFE braided line.
  9. Trying to figure out what fitting I can get by with on this rail. I'm running a new fuel line that will be an AN-08 for the new feed and I want to know what adapter I need to get from the OEM fuel rail to my AN-08 fitting. I believe that the rail I have is just a standard 3/8" nipple SAE quick disconnect (it's not the Ford Spring-lock style like the factory Contour fuel rails). The OD of the nipple is 0.375 measured using a dial caliper. So I am thinking that this Russell Performance adapter, p/n 644003 will do the trick but I want to make sure before I go and drop $15+ on one fitting. Any thoughts? Russell 644003 fitting
  10. Went to send you a PM and was notified that you can not accept any new messages... guessing your inbox is full.
  11. If you have the door panels I may be interested in them. I'm going to canablize it for the Midnight Blue vinyl on them though... So shipping could be easy... just peel off the vinyl, fold it up in an envelope and mail it. If no one makes any offers on them and they are going to the dumpster I'd take the vinyl off the four front door panels you have. Not sure what that would be worth. Let me know! Thanks.
  12. Ah that makes sense. I just don't have another dowel pin laying around that I could use. Didn't even think you could get those anymore if you needed one. However I suppose you have some of those laying around. I'll put the tower in a separate box, although I'm running out of room with all the other parts going along with it although I'll find a way. I tell you those Glad forceflex bags work really well for packing peanuts. They can stretch and form around the trans. I'd imagine everything should be ready to go out Monday after I get off work.
  13. So I'm finally getting around to shipping my trans into you Terry (it's taken months...) however now that I have acquired a old style Contour tower I have found that it doesn't fit onto the 02 Cougar MTX75. It appears that the alignment pin (as I call it, see pictures below) on the newer MTX75 is taller, which fits into the oversized hole on the lower bolt hole of the later style tower bolt pattern. The old style tower uses this alignment pin as well, but it doesn't protrude up into the top casting of the tower. Only the steel 'fork' so to speak below the mounting surface uses it so on my old 98 Contour MTX75 the alignment pin does not come up past the machined mounting surface as it does on the newer 02 Cougar MTX75. What needs to be completed to make the old tower fit on the late model MTX75? The way I look at it there are three options: 1 - drill out the mounting hole on the old style tower to allow the alignment pin to pass through further. 2 - remove material off of the alignment pin so that the pin does not come past the machined mounting surface 3 - press the pin down further into trans housing bringing it down below the machined mounting surface. Pics: 02 Cougar Trans Alignment pin height difference from the machined surface (roughly 9mm) 98 Contour Trans Alignment pin Hard to see... but the pin doesn't come past the mounting surface Comparison of towers (shows the 'steel fork' I was referring too on the older tower placing the newer tower over the old one you can see the hole size difference Installed pictures Old tower (interference shown with pin) New tower aligned in hole
  14. Fair enough. I think I'll just be running with some colder NGK plugs and stick with my MSD DIS-4, Accel coil pack, and Taylor Thundervolt wires then.
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