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2000SVTC

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Everything posted by 2000SVTC

  1. My guess is a bad sensor, vacuum leak, or other fuel injection system problem rather than low compression causing most of your problems. Have you looked at OBD codes if any? Does anyone have a diagnostic scanner that is compatible with your car?
  2. Somehow I misread 100 as 110, so yes there is some difference there. BUT - I'm not convinced that the other numbers are low. Since the intake valve stays open during the first part of the compression stroke, you will never see as much pressure during slow speed cranking as you'd expect from the compression ratio. Taking Buckeye's number of 120+ at lowish altitude, 115 at your altitude sounds very reasonable. Altitude calculator online says that your air density is only 77% of sea level which should cause a 23% reduction in the compression reading vs sea level. If you can find a "leakdown tester" that may give some indication, in addition to numeric values it is helpful to just listen to where the air is going on TDC of the low cylinder vs TDC of a good one. Crankcase (oil filler cap) = rings, exhaust pipe = exhaust valve, throttle body = intake valve. If the engine has not been run recently, all these things are iffy as a tiny bit of carbon or corrosion can cause a biggish leak.
  3. Also - I'm not sure that it could not be wires or coil. If an ignition component is weak, it may fire OK at light load but not OK under heavy load. Takes more volts to make the spark jump the gap at higher cylinder pressure. My wife's old T-Bird started running badly at heavy throttle. Ran fine at light throttle. Turned out to be plug wires.
  4. I don't know what the correct number should be. But - when all the numbers are so close that is a good sign, so I'd think that you are OK. Do you have any other evidence of low compression? Best Regards, Al Seim SVT Contour 2000
  5. I'm not criticizing the original poster, each to his/her own. But I disagree with the idea that the Contour ABS is bad or useless. The ABS on my 2000 SVT works well, in fact I used it twice last week when two idiots on two successive days ran the same stop sign in front of me. I did have to replace a front sensor once, it did throw a readable OBD2 code so was easy to diagnose. My race car doesn't have ABS but I think it is a significant safety advantage on the road. OTOH my late Dad's Lincoln had crazy ABS misbehavior that defied diagnosis (even by the dealer) and was dangerous, we pulled the ABS fuse to "fix" that.
  6. Where is the smell? Out the exhaust, under hood, inside car?
  7. Hi As you can see, not too much action here these days. I'm still dailying my 2000 bone stock SVTC, just passed 160k. I came close to selling it to my son for his first car but bought him a 2003 SVT Focus instead. My problem was that I couldn't decide what to buy to replace my SVTC! My car is running well - had the drivetrain out at 130k to have Terry Haines (RIP) replace the busted diff. That's really the only major issue my car has had since buying it 10+ years ago at 80k mi. Replaced all hoses, clutch, water pump etc while engine was out. My only real beef with the car is that I'm afraid to rev it like crazy for extended periods for fear of con rod bearing failure. But it's a street car, I have two race cars and an AX car so why do I need to flog it all that hard. If I really cared all that much I'd put forged rods in it. I do love the exhaust note at WOT and 4k+ RPMs!
  8. Sadly, many Contours (I think more of the early ones than the later ones, could be wrong) have badly deteriorating wiring, especially around the engine. If the problem is widespread (lots of failing wires) it may be difficult to keep the car alive. If it's just a few wires, or if you just have a pinched wire, you ought to be able to keep going. I had the engine out of my car a few years ago and found one wire totally crumbling and everything else good. Replaced that one sensor and all is good 30k miles later. A Ford dealer is probably not the place to get this fixed, they are pricey and I'm sure are told to not get creative. You need to find a good independent shop, maybe one specializing in electrical stuff. Wiring in a manual switch is not elegant but it may be a decent practical solution if the driver is paying attention, as it seems like your son is. It should be pretty quick and easy which is the virtue. Obviously fixing the actual wiring flaw would be better but may burn up a lot of labor if you have to pay to get it done.
  9. I used either Permatex or 3M Black Rubber Weatherstrip Adhesive - worked very well. I did not reattach the entire seal but joined it back together where someone had cut it, which is probably harder. This stopped a leak into the interior in hard rain so I think the membrane is definitely worth retaining. A chronic leak is a car killer.
  10. IIRC fans ground at the crossmember at top or side of radiator. Another idea might be to try running A/C, if the issue is a temp sensor or temp sensor wiring it might be possible to force the fans to run by running A/C.
  11. Can you please describe exactly what you mean? Most of the dicussion in this thread involves failures inside the transmission - is your linkage broken inside the transmission or outside?
  12. I've had some problems with mild corrosion in connectors (none window related) on my Contour and other older cars. The best fix seems to be a spray called DeOxit. Might try going into the door and separate and treat all connectors with DeOxit or similar. Lots of moisture inside the door.
  13. If this is what I think it is (garter spring removal tool) you can buy a much cheaper plastic version of this type tool at NAPA etc. I bought a set of various sizes for not much money, I needed it for the fuel line to engine coupling.
  14. A few thoughts - When I first put my car back together (radiator and engine removal for transmission work, replacement of all hoses) it wasn't cooling properly presumably due to an air bubble somewhere. Once that worked out all was fine. Fans are grounded through a chassis ground near radiator that is easy to overlook or (in my case) fail to tighten properly. Do fans come on when A/C is run? That overrides the temperature sensors etc. I bought a Craftsman tool that is basically a set of clamping fingers on the end of a flexible cable, worked wonders on hard to reach spring clamps. Good luck and hope all turns out OK.
  15. I'm reasonably sure that's just a mounting stud on the top of the radiator, see pics on RockAuto for instance. They are part of the plastic side tanks, the drivers side is apparently broken and the radiator has ruptured. At a minimum that needs replacing, and hoses while you are in there. Radiator drops out bottom, is not terribly hard just a number of shrouds etc. Good luck!
  16. I'd take that as a no. I'm old school and sure don't.
  17. Maybe some pics - not sure what these "nozzles" are??
  18. Yes, in that area. Loosen the door sill trim and pull the floor carpet away from the front of the sill, it's on the inside of the rocker panel/floor pan just below the door sill. It's "G2" on this factory diagram, which is looking from the glove compartment area toward the driver doorsill.
  19. Hard to diagnose from afar, but a few thoughts: Bubbling noise from tank sounds odd but may not relate to this issue. Also consider the possibility that you had two separate problems, one being the fuel pump and one something else, not yet fixed. Is the check engine light on? Either way, it may be useful to get the codes read. Some auto parts stores will do it for free. Be sure to write it down and report back. As a total long shot - the ground for the fuel pump module is, strangely, located near the drivers left ankle, actually just behind the door pillar underneath the carpet. You have to pull up the door jamb trim to get to it. It's just a screw going into the body sheet metal with some wires attached. My car had a door seal leak years ago and this area had gotten wet a few times. I had been chasing an odd driveability problem for years and finally tracked down and cleaned up this ground point, which had some corrosion. Not rusty just a tiny bit corroded. It definitely runs better now! If the ground got really bad it could definitely screw up the fuel system.
  20. That's impressive! Surprising that the stock tune (?) pulls advance at 4k.. Or maybe not a stock tune.. Have a rummage around www.taurusclub.com - there used to be a number of references there to people who did (SCT?) tunes on our vintage Ford ECUs.
  21. I did a temporary fix on mine (that probably would have lasted forever by using a nylon bushing between pin and cable end (where the rubber had fallen apart) and capturing it with an "e" clip. Not quite as tight as stock but worked fine for a year 'til I got around to a proper fix usinf OEM parts (just as they were disappearing). But I don't have the part #s, just bought an assortment and tried a few 'til it worked.
  22. Well if it is burning gas like crazy and the CEL is on, it may very well be running super rich (too much gas) and thus getting gas contamination in the oil. This could indeed be very bad for the engine as well as the catalytic converter and your bank account. I'd strongly advise getting the codes read and going from there.
  23. Does the car run OK? Any miss when first started? Any CEL? Gas mileage OK? If the engine is running extremely rich (too much gas), or a bad injector is dribbling fuel into a cylinder when parked, it should have one of these symptoms. Or do you just drive on short trips, thus never really warming up the oil? That can build up water and I suppose gas in the oil. A nice long drive should heat up the oil and drive the more volatile substances (water and gas) out. I'm operating on supposition but I doubt that it would take much gas in the oil to give it an odd smell.
  24. What makes you/him think there is gas (gasoline I assume) in the oil? Does not seem very likely to me. A car with a carburetor can get a stuck float and have fuel run down into a cylinder, but I can't really see anything very similar happening with a "modern" fuel injected car like the Contour. Assuming that it is running even close to OK I can't see the mixture being rich enough to get significant oil dilution. If there are small beads of liquid in the oil it would be more likely to be water. Hopefully condensation if very small amount. If there is lots and oil starts to look like brown goo drain it right away as that's probably a head gasket leak or similar dumping lots of coolant / antifreeze in the oil. That will ruin the bearings if it persists. Al Seim 2000 SVT Contour
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