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  1. Like
    2000SVTC got a reaction from valleyview in Dead fuel pump?   
    I have not done this job on my car so others may provide better guidance - but here's how I would proceed -
    1. Use a meter to check for power at the connector near the pump, when the pump is supposed to be running.  If power is present, sounds like a bad pump.
    2.  To replace pump, get brave and do like Spridget did on the previous page - enlarge the hole in the bodywork using tin snips before opening tank.  If you do that with the tank still sealed there would be little hazard.  Then replace pump.  Be super careful for fire hazard when tank is open.  Once tank is resealed, use some sheet aluminum and aluminum duct seal tape (the metal stuff, not "duct tape") to reseal the hole in the body.  If you're not comfortable doing this maybe a local mechanic could help as a moonlight job?  Or - I'd think anyone used to maintaining farm machinery would be comfortable doing this.  Or maybe tow it to a local non dealer garage after showing them Spridget's picture.  Dropping the tank is way too much labor vs trimming a bit of sheet metal - it's not really in a structural place or anything.
  2. Like
    2000SVTC got a reaction from Detroit3series in Cold Air Intake GMK or similar for SVT   
    To support Terry's point - I've looked at the intake air temperature (measured by the stock sensor in the air inlet, read via OBD2) on my stock SVT and it's very very close (within a degree or two max) to ambient (ie outside air) temperature while driving.  Effectively this is as cold as you are ever going to get, maybe even cooler than if taken lower to the ground on a sunny day.  There's really nothing to be gained besides looks and induction roar.  The air inside the wheel well - where the stock intake gets it - is as cool as any air around while moving.  Cooler than engine compartment for sure.
    The only way any gains would be made is if - which I doubt - the std intake has a significant pressure drop / flow restriction and could be replaced by something more open.  But since the SVT engineers replaced that part of the system already I doubt they left much on the table.  And adding a long tube is likely in increase restriction.
    The SVT 2.5 had one of the highest outputs per liter of any non exotic car on the road for its day, so there's not much to be gained without increasing displacement or really going deep into the engine.  That's good or bad depending on how you look at it...
  3. Like
    2000SVTC got a reaction from Kyle Sisneros in 99 Ford Contour LX Oil Leak HELP (pictures)   
    I know the V6 better than the 4 but I think that's your oil pressure sender, it can crack internally and leak, I had it happen on a V6 Taurus.  Should be readily available at auto parts houses and pretty easy to replace, just screws in and out on a taper pipe thread I think.  Use some sealant if the new part doesn't have any on the threads.
    The whole sensor comes out, disconnect the wire and use a socket over the hex.  Removing the oil filter temporarily may ease access.
    Then you're good for another 15 years!
  4. Like
    2000SVTC got a reaction from SVTDEMON in how do i get a discontinued part.   
    If you find a helpful Ford parts department they can do a search of other dealer parts departments, I think.  Or get one from a junkyard or parts car.  There always seem to be some people on "the other" Contour site that are parting out cars.
    I doubt that part fails very often so it should be fairly easy (??) to find a good used one.
    Hope that helps!
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