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About rk2k2

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  • Location
    Cool, CA
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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Contour SVT
  1. Acorrding to him, ".. you can verify it buy removing your air filter housing and acordian tube., then you will see a rubber plug on the top of the transmission , pull it out and you will see your clutch and flywheel" I was going to do this after work, no good?
  2. Immense thanks for the feedback, I'm going to try the method for the flywheel first as that seems to be the easiest. Might remove the front valve cover this weekend to check the cams. I must admit I am becoming VERY happy with the way the car is running, and that while it still has the stock 2.5 tune. As for the flywheel performance, the guy tried to tell me it's performing just as it should (he has the physics of inertial mass backwards- engine RPM with SVT flywheel slow down faster because SVT flywheel is heavier) Without even seeing the car again, he flat out said "there isn't a vacuum leak". nor did he suggest maybe it's a dirty or sticking IAC (from what I've found, also a possible cause?). He stuck to his guns- it's running as it should ... And I am thinking no, it COULD be a SPEC flywheel installed and there IS a vacuum leak or bad IAC. Any other thoughts on causes for RPM's not dropping faster? Anyway, I just hate this situation and having to confront the guy. He seems to be the most 'straight arrow', honest, and trustworthy person I've met in quite awhile, and aside from his 'slip up' on throwing out all leftover parts, not taking pics during the build as promised, no video of the leaking new TOB he promised, not calling me to come get my 2.5 engine and left over parts before he began the re-assembly, and on and on ... I'd trust hime with my life? On a side note, I passed CA smog yesterday with all levels near bottom of it's associated scale.
  3. FINALLY got my 3.0 conversion completed ... Supposed to have gotten a Quaife, SPEC flywheel, and SVT cams installed at the same time (as well as replacement of numerous other parts with new). It's been over 4 years since I had the SVTC running and even though I don't have a tune for the 3.0, just by driving the car I have serious doubts all the work was actually done . Other than that, first tell tale sign of many was not getting back all the old parts after I explicitly said " I want ALL the old parts back!" After the first 2 items I inquired about and his response of "I didn't think you wanted THOSE so I through them out", I just paid the bill so I could just get my car back and go home- figure I'd resolve things later (stop payment on check?) Also, since I gave him ALL new 2.5 timing components (cjhains/guides/tensioners), why the heck has every single one been taken off the 2.5, INCLUDING the crank gear? I just had the car front wheels up thinking I could verify the quaife by rotating one wheel and observing the other wheel then prevent one wheel from rotating while rotating the other. Results With one wheel blocked from rotating you couldn't rotate the 'free' wheel- from past experience with rear wheel drive (in the 70's) that seems right. With both wheels up, rotating one wheel, the other wheel rotated in teh oposite direction. I remember observing that in the past but don't remember if that was valid for a posi/LSD? Are these tests valid to differentiate a Quaife from a stock diff? And if so, are the results as would be expected? If not, anyway I can test to be certain? As for the SPEC, RPMs sure don't decline as fast as I had expected they would (again, still has the 2.5 SVT tune and there may be some sort of vacuum leak). As for the cams from my SVT, sure doesn't idle as I remember it did. Sort of seems like a 'stock' grind at idle. Can I visually verify a 2.5 timing cover versus a 3.0 timing cover while the engine is still in the car? All in all, the car does seem to run as well as it did when a stock SVT (if not slightly better) and I am happy with the way it's running, although I do have complaints about some of the other work.
  4. Didn't know anything about it and I had been imagining it was an external finned cooler. I ordered a new one and after I got it I was believing the '01 Tribute engine I got for the swap already had the same thing on it (engine STILL at machine shop). Anyway, if it does and it's the same as the SVT's I was thinking of returning the new one sine the Tribute only has 10K on it.
  5. Now how BRIT is TH? Think I'd rather see Roger Chapman and Family! How many times did you get to see them? Once for me in '72/'73- think they were the opening band for T-Rex at the Long Beach Convention center? Fan of their's since Music in a Dolls House ...
  6. rk2k2

    Buy AMERICAN !

    My point exactly, stopped DEAD just like mine and hundreds (thousands?) others with the 'spun bearing' issue! DID FORD DO WHAT TOYOTA DID? NOPE!!! Out of warranty. OUR problem! IMO, a decent company would at least own up to their being a problem and fix it- NOT say something like "we don't know anything about any problems with the engine" and "you can bring it in and have us look at it, if we deem it's not a Ford issue you'll have to pay". Ford ignored the issue where IMO they should have AT LEAST extended the warranty to 100,000 miles for anyone having that failure (at least in MY case, 50,000) I can say at least one thing about Ford (at least in '76), they DID cover a few minor issues even though my car was only a 1000 or so miles out of it's 36,000 mile warranty. I have no idea what the Ford of today or tomorrow will be doing in the event something major comes up on one of todays vehicles (that has expired warranty). For your daughters sake, I do hope her Fusion (or anyone elses) doesn't have any major failure (due to Ford's qc/engineering), and if it does and the warranty has expired, Ford gives your daughter the same treatment that they did when her Mystique still HAD a warranty, regardless of how close it was to expiring! Course, you know a warranty is a warranty, andd Ford's is 36,000. Meaning to me they care it only makes it that long. I'll probably be dead before I seriously consider buying a new vehicle but in the event I do live that long it's going to either be one with a 100,000 mile warranty or longer. That or fuel cell or whatever ...
  7. In the 8 years I've lived here I haven't see any other CVST's in my immediate area (10 mile raidius), but in those 8 years I've seen maybe two or 3 others 25 miles away near my work. I chalk that up to not only there being only a total of 20,000 something having been made, but the fact of their 'junk value' when they die- the cost to fix for most common owners exceeds the value of the car! FWIW, the motorcycle 'waving' supposedly came about from when years ago rival bikers would carry chains and 'attack' each other. The hand wave we know today back then was to show the other biker they were not carrying chains. Maybe a wives tale but a motorcycle instructor provided that explanation years ago. Anyway, now adays the wave is a form of free spirit comradery (if you aren't into RIDING you probably won't understand that).
  8. rk2k2

    Buy AMERICAN !

    Personally, having been burnt buying a new Ford vehicle (23 years apart), I WON'T buy another Ford, I won't even look at them. At least not until it's shown the new vehicles aren't going to turn out to be mere pieces of shiz when it has MAJOR failure before it even hits 50K! Or how about, yeah, a warranty that would at least insure that the major failure would be covered until 100,000 miles? I don't give a crap if some idiot figures they don't need to maintain a vehicle because the warranty is so high. I want it to insure ME that after they take my $30,000 I don't end up with worthless junk in 50,000 miles (meaning to fix it costs near what it's even worth). The BS is the auto manufacturer who wants me to believe their vehicle is going to be reliable- no warranty to back it up, just take their word! RIGHT!!!!
  9. I was under the impression the headers still retained all the plumbing for all the emissions stuff. If the case is I'd have to eliminate emissions devices, guess that answers the question! I just figured MSDS didn't get a CARB EO due to certification being much more stringent than the normal consumer smog test. Thanks for sabing me $500 Terry! BTW Terry, why is it some of the vehicles on the Ford UK site are shown left hand drive?
  10. I know that MSDS indicates their headers are for off-road use only but I was wondering if there were any states that they were actually legal for street use. I currently live in CA where as most probably know, no EO means NO. But I purchased my CSVT when I lived in CO and when I moved to CA it had 12K on it so it's considered an out of state vehicle (the hood decal only lists being Federal, not 50 state). I'm trying to talk myself OUT of buying and putting the headers on when my car goes back together mostly because the problems I'm most likely to encounter everytime I go in for my smog test. But due to the noticeable increase in power with the headers I'm having difficulty talking myself out of it and am trying to find any loophole(s) that would allow me to have the headers on my car. So I'm looking for responses from all of you outside of CA.
  11. Now how much of this Mondeo is living on? Gone is any 3.0. Gone is any 'V'. Take your choice, inline 4's or an inline 5. Heres a question, will the UK inline 5 fit in my '99 CSVT?!!! It does come with a 6 sped manual though, so how about swap with that?
  12. Just weighed my SPEC flywheel and it comes in at 8.2 lbs. What? I thought it was supposed to weigh 12? Anyway, the only flyweels I've ever had and actually saw ('65 289 Mustang, 66 Chevelle 396, 76 Mustang 2.8- crap!) the flywheels were completly flat on the friction side. Having just looked at this SPEC for the first time I noticed it is raised on the outside perimeter where the pp mounts. Is this standard on all the Contour clutches meaning anyones pp will mount correctly? Or is this how all flywheels are now?!!!
  13. Are you SURE I have to do it that way? I shouldn't use my 20LB sledge? I'm having the swap done by someone but I'll have the engine for a few weeks after it comes back from the machine shop. Figure maybe I'll do a few things (like installing the flywheel) when I'm off for the holidays. You recommend using new bolts/washers or you think using the existing would be ok? Course, does a flex plate use the same size hardware as the flywheel? Out of curiosity, have you had issues with runout on the SPEC's (or anyone else's) or is that just common sense practice? My friend is a retired Mercedes mechanic and has any mics and dial guages I might need so there isn't any issue on tools I might need. So I suppose you wonder why I'm not doing the swap myself? Simple- I don't know what the hell I'm doing anymore
  14. Yeah, that's the guy. Came to a total of $305 after shipping. If it's just a little slip to adjust to I can deal with that. I haven't been able to find any 'official' specs on the SPEC, but isn't it like 12.5 lbs? Suppose since I'll be keeping it I'll take it out of the packaging and weigh it after work
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