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About firehawk618

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  • Birthday 10/17/1974

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  • Location
    Greater Seattle area
  • Interests
    My 1st interest is my 2000 WS6 Trans Am, Chamelion Blue Green, M6, lots o mods. Not a daily driver.<br /><br />2nd interest is Contour / Mystiques. Always liked them since they came out. Prefer 2.5 over 2.0 and definitely 5 speed.

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  • Vehicle owned
    98 Mystique LS loaded 5 speed
  1. Not to bring this back from the dead but I'm trying to remove my control arms. I'm stuck on the lower ball joint attatchment to the spindle. I can get the nut off fine, however the torx bolt is stuck. Is this bolt threaded into the spindle or do I just hammer it out from the other end? Thanks.
  2. firehawk618

    Center Console

    A couple screws on each side of the console at the front under the dash, a couple inside your armrest. Pop off the bezel surrounding the auto shift handle. Pull out the little spacer just below your radio...I believe that's it. Pull up the ebrake as far as you can, and finnagle the thing outta there.
  3. Cool. Thanks. I'll get some pics in the next few days. Car had a purpleish interior, now the dash is more of a blue color :( Oh well. Better than huge tears and pieces missing on the top of the dash pad. I've been getting ready to replace the alternator...UGH. I did the alternator on my previous Mystique. And I remember once I got it all done it wasn't as bad as anticipated. This time i'm having a hard time getting motivated to do it. All oily and greasy under there. Looks like oil's been leaking out of the oil pan gasket and somewhere under the intake manifold, causing a streak down the face of the motor. Same exact places my Mystique used to leak too. Oil pan was simple. Whatever was leaking under the intake manifold was a BITCH! I remember I ended up just using silicone on whatever it was that was leaking. Couldn't get that can thing out of the valley. :(
  4. Yeah I have PATS and did grab the clock out of the 95. I figure i'll wire in the clock, and probably just remove the led from my old dash and just drill a new hole in the new dash for it.
  5. I got a 95 dash stuffed in about 90% done. Swapped harness and bolted right in! Thanks for the advice! Looks like i'll be able to keep my post 98 console at this time since there wasn't a good pre98 console at the bone yard. Looks like the plastic thing right below the radio will swap right over.
  6. Yeah I got to do the alternator too. UGH I am going to the JY. They had an early 98 contour in the holding pen that's now out for parting out. Hoping the early 98 is a plug and play replacment for the 99. We shall see soon!
  7. Ugh, sounds like alot more work than I wanted to do. I was hoping to swap full dash pads, with airbag. Other than rewiring the defroster switch, and wiring in the clock I was hoping it would be plug and play. So when you say crossmember support are you talking about the piece in the center that ties in with the console? Maybe i'll just wait for an early 98 dash......
  8. Have you done any of the solenoid troubleshooting I suggested in the post above? Start with the easy stuff. If you're hearing the relay under the dash click when pressing the fob then yes, the fob's fine. At that point it's either the relay in the box that controls the door locks / trunk release, wiring or solenoid. Simple.
  9. I am considering doing the same thing. Dash in my 99 is trashed. Found a few nice pre 98 dashes in the local boneyard. I was going to get everything from that car in including the passenger airbag. It will be needed. I question whether or not the pre98 airbag will plug directly into the 99 harness and whether the airbag computer will like that... Any input Aussie ford?
  10. Unhook the wires from the solenoid. Apply 12v to the solenoid. If it clicks then it's fine. If not that's your problem. If the solenoid checks out fine, and your FOB works ok with all other functions besides the trunk pop feature i'd say it's likely the FOB is bad.
  11. Thanks :) The T/A is pretty much insaine. I don't remember exactly what stage it was at when I disappeared from this board but i'm done with all performance mods. Still have a short list of things that I want to get done for safety reasons. Rollcage, drop the fuel tank and install dual fuel pumps *for motor safety*, new rear tires.... Only dyno time it's seen was right after I got it put together, very VERY quick rough tune to pretty much make it driveable. She mustered up 640RWHP, 601 RWTQ. Procharger tensioner setup for the blowers blows. LOL pun intended. Couldn't keep a belt on it for crap. Upgraded to SDCE tensioner setup and haven't had one belt problem since. Little off topic here, is there a walkthrough for pulling the tour dash? I'll be swapping the 99 dash out for a pre 98 very very soon.
  12. Hey guys, vanished from here for a while. I had a 98 Mystique, 2.5, 5 speed etc etc. Sold it quite a while ago. Just picked up 1999 Contour SE, 2.5, 5 speed, everything except sunroof I think. Runs good, 168k miles, pretty nice body. Dash is trashed, need a lil' tlc. Just wanted to say HI. HI!
  13. Really the LQ9 was cheaper than the big cube motor but.... then add the cost of the s/c and the s/c setup is a couple grand more. But lots more hp too.!
  14. The average 550RWHP F-body with traction and driver mod will get mid to low 11's. My build took a turn for the worse....worse for the competition that is. :) Decided to go with a fully built 408ci LQ9 iron block, patriot stage 3 6.0L heads, Procharger D-1SC pushing 12lbs right now... Got the swap done in 3 days! Just got the thing fine tuned last night. 3rd gear cruising at 60mph @ 3500rpms, floor it and you get pinned to the seat, at about 70mph it starts smoking the tires! start feathering the throttle and at about 100 shift to 4th. What a kick in the a$$! This was done in the middle of the night, pitch black straight stretch of highway with NO lights or anything for at least 1 mile. Here's a link to what I did. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=879333
  15. Yep on woodgrain trim, no on drl's.
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