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wchain last won the day on July 1 2009

wchain had the most liked content!

About wchain

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  • Vehicle owned
    00 CSVT Silver Frost
  1. Thanks for fixing it buckeye! I wish I knew you had that tool! I would have rented it from you!
  2. I dunno what happened.... here they are again....
  3. 94K, Car has been maintained spot on its entire life and had Ford Dealer oil changes up until I bought it. FWIW, Ford dealer charged the previous owner 179 dollars for an 'induction service' at the 90K service interval. Yeah its cleaner than I thought it would be. I'm hoping to recover some lost power, and smooth things out here. I have already replaced plugs, wires, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump (with the Mod), Cleaned Air filter, and a bunch of cosmetic clean up.
  4. I have my doubts of B12 being able to clean ALL of that via the UIM vac lines. This wasnt that hard. I had the UIM off in 20 minutes. Plus this allows you to have a look at everything.
  5. Since my Fuel Pump Write up went so well, I decided to share some pics of my UIM/LIM rebuild..... So I unbolted the upper half last night... Here's the throttle body... BLECH! Here's the upper intake manifold.... Close up... Lower Intake manifold (yet to come out) Close up... Berryman's B12 Chemtool is a wonderful product! I cleaned the upper last night, little scrubbing required, but soaking it removed a LOT of the residue! More pics to come!
  6. The directions from Ford. http://www.fordcontour.org/Returnless-Fuel...nst-t10804.html
  7. CONTINUED Thats all Ladies and Gents! I hope you found this helpful!
  8. I have scanned the instruction Manual for the Motorcraft Fuel Pump Replacement. This is the PFS289 fuel tank "Kit" that includes everything. Rubber O ring, Lock Ring, Convolute, Nylon Lock ring for the fuel neck, rubber grommet for the fuel neck, updated flapper etc. This kit addresses many issues with the Contour Returnless fuel system, including the stuttering/bucking (what my 00 CSVT was doing), the shutoff when filling up (didn't have an issue here), and removal of the swirl chamber/swirl pot. The one thing that is NOT included in this kit is the Rotunda Cutter tool (Part number 310-133) which is a bronze tipped cutter that is used to nip the tabs that hold the existing swirl pot in the bottom of the tank. This tool with my discount is 180.00, and I find them online for 230+!! I checked with a local tech at the Ford Dealer and he told me that they use cutting dikes to cut them, do not twist or rock as the tabs are part of the lower tank floor. CUT ONLY. As long as they are in a ventilated area. ***DISCLAIMER** I am not advising or recommending you remove the tabs like this. This is merely what I have been told!!! Always use eye and skin protection when working with gasoline. Make sure area is well ventilated!!! The directions are for complete tank removal but I think most of us here will be cutting a hole below the back seat. I will post this at another board as well. Please do NOT recopy and link these photos elsewhere. I'm sharing with you guys because I am appreciative of the vast amount of information that I have received by searching the forums and doing lots of reading, so its nice to give back now and then. I will be tackling this job myself this weekend and I'll do a write up/Pictorial. Continued Below...
  9. I just got back from the local Ford Parts wholesaler. I bought Motorcraft PFS289. This kit has EVERYTHING to fix all the known issues. New pump, hanger, O rings, White lock ring for the filler neck, updated flapper valve, etc. The Kit PFS289 has detailed instructions on how to do the repair and mod the 'swirl chamber'. Basically you will be removing the swirl chamber. The directions say to buy Rotunda part 310-133, which is a cutoff tool designed to cut the four black tabs that hold the swirl chamber in place. I talked to a tech at the local ford Dealer, who told me that once they drain the tank, they make sure they are in a well ventilated area, and they use regular dikes to cut the plastic tabs. The important part: DO NOT TWIST OR ROCK when removing the tabs, just cut. Otherwise damage to the tank will occur. Once the swirl chamber is removed, remove all of the debris and detria at the bottom of the tank, and install the new updated assembly. The directions included talk in great detail about removing the fuel tank, updating the flapper, and reinstalling everything. This is VERY VERY detailed. I will try to scan the documents, and I will also be doing a pictorial on how to perform this. Thanks again to Terry for all your help!
  10. Will check that. Meanwhile my parts guy at Ford Dealer is checking into the Fuel Pump for me!
  11. Update, I just went out and looked, at least, with the engine bay area cold, the IMRC's are working (I can see the lever actuating the front, and the cable on the rear). SO at least with the engine cold, the IMRC Box is working....
  12. Okay, how do we get dom's attention in here? :)
  13. I see. Understood. Thanks for the clarification! What about that swirl chamber?
  14. Let me rephrase. All the posts I've read on FCO and Contour.org only speak of replacing the pump. Like here http://contour.org/mods/mods.php?s=howto&displayid=39 So if I understand correctly, buying a new current contour pump for my CSVT will not help things, I need to buy the cougar TSB kit, that includes a new pump, sock, and swirl chamber, correct? What does it take to remove the old chamber from the tank?
  15. Thanks for both your replies. I have right now, below half a tank. Friday, I filled to about 3/4 of a tank. It started acting up today. I may put more fuel in it. Terry, is the swirl pot removable? Searching the other contour sites out there, everyone is just dropping in a new pump, so I wasnt sure what needed to be done. Buckeye, how do I know the IMRC Brain is bad? Is it worth getting one from a salvage yard or is a new one in order? Thanks!
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