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rufus

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About rufus

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 08/25/1950

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    cars

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  • Vehicle owned
    95 Contour LX V6 automatic
  1. Hello - Unfortunately my '95 Contour is long gone. But in the course of cleaning out my "car library", I found this Ford Service Manual. Hopefully, someone here will find it useful. My experience is that 'hard' copies of such manuals are much easier to use than electronic copies. This manual is complete and pristine ... $60 + shipping.
  2. rufus

    Water Pump / Belt Tensioner Source(s)

    Hi Folks - After installing a replacement AC Delco pump referenced in my post above from 3 years ago, I now find the shaft seal is leaking. I suspect it began leaking within a year of first installation...or maybe even sooner. (This is from the need to add coolant periodically over the past 2+ years.) At first I thought I'd not done a great job of getting the clamps to seal all the hoses, then I thought the leak was at the water pump mounting surface when I measured it to be warped between .001" - .002" (I did use a torque wrench....) Then after using Hi Temp Silicon RTV, there was still a leak....about a 1/4 cup a week. .Today I rigged a way to apply air pressure to the assembled pump and housing while removed from the engine. The shaft seal is the culprit!. In the 3 years, the Contour's logged about 45,000 miles. The pump has always seen 50/50 Prestone and distilled water. The replacement belt tensioner seems to fit properly with the engagement tab properly located and the drive belt installs easily enough. Questions: 1. Besides driving a '95 Contour, have I done anything wrong? (Seriously, I like how the car drives....and enjoy the challenge of keeping it running!) 2. Anyone else have or know of similar experiences with water pump shaft seal failures? ....or was it just the "luck of the draw" for me to get a w/pump whose seal failed so quickly? Should I try a GNK pump this time?? BTW: my Contour is now named "Bambi" (w/lettering across the front of the rumpled hood....due to hitting a deer in Nov 2010 @ 50 mph. Talk about a car that's "rolling bad luck!!!" Regards, Bob
  3. rufus

    Water Pump / Belt Tensioner Source(s)

    Thanks guys!! It turns out my impeller failed. I have a pump with a metal impeller on the way..... I've worked on many different car makes and models over the years, and find the V-6 Contour is about as "unfriendly" to work on as any...... Not to highjack my own thread, but what other problems are likely in the near future for a '95 V-6 with around 50,000 miles? (I see some cracking of the wiring insulation in the engine compartment, and am trying to be as careful as possible of it.) Thanks, Bob
  4. Hi Folks - My goal is to make my '95 2.5l V-6 LX with 47,000 miles last a couple more years. It suddenly started overheating the other day after driving about 20 miles. Since the thermostat and water pump drive belt tensioner check out o.k., the most likely culprit appears to be the water pump (It's not quite off now, and therefore not apart yet to see if the impeller is worn or failed). Any suggestions for a source of decent quality replacement parts? In addition to the water pump, I plan to replace the tensioner and belt while it's apart to minimize the possibility of being stranded due to cooling system issues. Are these parts still available from Ford? decent quality? What about the 3 water pump mounting bolts? The Ford repair manual describes a torque-to-yeild design that must not be reused to achieve proper pump clamping force. Are the bolts still available from Ford? Thanks, in advance for any help! Regards, Bob
  5. New Autolite double platinum plugs and wires, and the problem is fixed! Thanks guys!!!! Obviously this is a pleasant surprise.....my '93 Mustang Cobra still runs fine on its original set of wires at 201,000+ miles. And double platinum plugs last 100,000 miles. Wow!! The 'wasted spark' ignition must be tough on plugs and wires!! Regards, Bob
  6. O.K., I'm convinced. I'll put in a new set of plugs and wires, and report what happens. (I don't like how the wires for the left bank make a sharp bend inside the plastic "loom".) And what Dom described above sounds just like what happens.....off idle and under load. Thanks for the input. Bob
  7. Dom - Are you saying that a misfire on a '95 w/OBD1 should trip the CEL and show a code, but just not offer any diagnosis of the cause?
  8. Update: EEC shows no codes. More after I have a close look at the coil and crank sensor connectors.....
  9. Thanks Terry - That's exactly the kind of guidance I'm hoping for. Now as far as inspecting the wiring leading to those 2 connectors.....am I correct that it's a matter of peeling back any wire loom to look for deteriorated (brittle, loose or ??) insulation and therefore bare wires underneath? What about the possibility of poor continuity at the connector itself? Anyway, I'll be really gentle with the wiring as I look it over..... It's probably gonna be a few days before I have any answers, since I have my '67 Corvette on the lift now for some rear suspension work..... Regards, Bob
  10. As stated in my first post, I've looked at all 6 cylinders and they ALL drop out.
  11. So if there's any missing at all, the CEL should light? I'll have the EEC read..... So, other than plugs, plug wires and wiring harness, what are the most frequent (likely) cause(s) of ignition missing on the V-6? Are there any electrical tests that can be done on the crank position sensor, coil, ignition module, PCM with a digital volt-ohm meter? (I can't imagine there'd be any test on the PCM!) As an aside, if #1 and #5 are both fired at the same time and one is at 10 BTDC on compression and the other at 10 BTDC on exhaust, I still don't see why an inductive light won't indicate timing accurately.....it's gonna flash twice for the cylinder it's on relative to a crank marker.....once at 10 BTDC Exhaust and once at 10 BTDC on compression, BUT both look the same when observed as a flash that illuminates the crank mark.......it's just gonna 'show' 10 BTDC twice instead of once. Bob....
  12. I see, an inductive light just can't be used to set/read ignition timing, because it can't distinguish between a real and false event. But since I'm not trying to read or set timing (I'm just looking at the flashing light to see if the light flashes steadily), it should work for me, right? I.e. If the ignition system is functioning properly, the light should flash steadily w/o dropping out, right? Therefore, as I've observed, since the light does drop out every few seconds, then the ignition system is missing. Or is it me that's missing something??? I'm sorry for being such a PITA. Anyway thanks for your help! Regards, Bob S.
  13. Terry - I was assuming my inductive light would pick up the extra firings, but would still show a continuous, steady series of flashes at twice the normal frequency (i.e. 800 rpm would just look like 1600, for instance)......this isn't right? What is it that doesn't work with a 'wasted spark' ignition system? ....in using the light on it at idle, it appeared to flash normally most of the time, but occasionally would either skip or drop out (this is the only thing so far that lead me to conclude my problem is in the ignition). ....or does an inductive light somehow flash randomly with a 'wasted spark' ignition giving totally erroneous results???? Bob...
  14. No light, so I haven't had the EEC read for a code. Thanks for the help!! Bob....
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