Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mikey

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/08/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Point Roberts WA
  • Interests
    cars, automobiles, more cars, more automobules

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    1999 CSVT (Black)
  1. To test the Brake booster. Car off Pump the brake pedal until it is solid. Keep the pressure on the pedal. Start the car. If the brake pedal goes down.....booster is good
  2. Dom, That is my original question. Is there a PWM compatible fuel pump out there or do I need to switch to a returnless system? I know ther are external fuel pump you can get that have a return system internal to them, but not sure if I should go that route. Thx
  3. Does anyone know of an external fuel pump that will work with the returnless system? My understanding is that most aftermarket pumps will pack it in if they are used with the PWM (pulse width modulated) control that is used to control fuel pressure in these cars. How would you put a fuel cell in a contour if you can't use PWM...or would you need to convert to returnless style. Thx Mikey
  4. Hillman Imp....too funny!!! Mikey
  5. Terry, This was an extremely good thread, a bit dry, but very very interesting. I do have one question though. Unless I read it wrong, you stated that lack of oil never causes spun bearings. Granted my experience with engine rebuilding is miniscule when compared to yours, but with lack of oil the metal on metal friction can create a huge amount of heat that actually weld the bearing to the journal and can over come even properly engineered bearing crush. I've pulled engines apart and actually seen the bearing welded in this way...never one of our V6's though. I have also seen bearings installed with the oil hole in the wrong spot (not mine thank heavens), without the oil the bearing didn't last long at all. One other comment that I don't think was mentioned was that with powdered metal rods, the one piece rod is pressure fractured into 2 halves creating uneven mating surfaces and must only be installed with it's mated half. Thanks for the great info! Mikey
  6. I have used Pegasus for years, but I would say it's not just for "true racers". They are great for anything to do with brakes, hardware, fluids ...you name it! I have never been disappointed by their service or support, and if I haveneeded to return something......no problems what so ever! They are always one of the first sites I look at for specialty parts......I highy recommend them. They even have stuff like Roto-flex couplings for my Triumph GT6....most likely only Terry will know what those are being a Brit.
  7. Terry, I don't know anyone else who would be able to answer this one for me so here goes. Can you explain the differences between the Duratec 30 and the Duratec 25 engines? I was told (by a know it all) that the Duratec 30 is simply just a Duratec 25 bored out from 82.4mm to 88.9mm......I am doubtful of this info to say the least, but can't find anything reliable to support or refute it. If that was the case we could all simply bore out our 2.5's and live happily ever after!! Thought I'd better go to the source. Thanks Mikey
  8. Terry, I have sent you a message on this one. Mikey
  9. Black 1999 SVT 90,307 kilometers (56,114 miles) Mikey
  10. Could be a loose brake caliper, or perhaps one that is not really centered...
  11. I run the Davis Craig EWP80 and the older 8020 controller, (which does not control the fans) and have had no problems so far. I did also remove my thermostat, (on Terry's advice) but I do notice that it takes the car a lot longer warm up to temperature. Not a big deal since I only drive it in the summer and mostly on the track. Go to the Davis Craig web sight, which they have recently redone, and you see everything there. Mikey
  12. Wonderful news........all the best!!
  13. mikey

    fogging up

    Fair to say though that it is most likely A/C related.......which is out of my realm Thx
  14. mikey

    fogging up

    Ok, all of a sudden my SVT has started fogging up really badly. I have checked and it is not the heater core, but I am wondering if it could be something with the air conditioning. It happens when I have run the car (and A/C) parked it for a while, then restart it. I know very little about A/C, but I thought I read somewhere that if the A/C isn't fully charged, or not charged properly fogging up may be the result. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? Thanks
  15. Makes sense, it makes me curious why people want to remove the limiter. Seems to me it's your friend..... Of course if you miss a gear downshifiting.... Thx
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.