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CrewChiefPro last won the day on September 15 2016

CrewChiefPro had the most liked content!

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About CrewChiefPro

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  • Location
    Peoria, IL
  • Interests
    Software design and development. Drag Racing, Basketball

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  • Vehicle owned
    1999 SVT 3.0 Turbo Contour
  1. Thanks, an amazing sleeper for sure. More to come as well.
  2. Good idea. Not a stock tune, Joey did it years ago. Lots of room for improvement.
  3. Yes you read that correctly, 474 Ft. Lbs of Torque at only 3950 RPM. Gotta be a record for our platform. I need to find a local tuner who can tune a stock ECU Ford, any other car but ours they can do. Nobody likes stock ECU Fords I guess. I now know why it signs off at 4k, looking at the tune it kills 3 degrees of timing right then. Their tuner said I have 50 more HP and 20 lbs of torque if the tune was right. This thing is a Beast, and the numbers are impressive. I have a race car so I don't race people, just fun for this old guy to have a car that makes me smile every time I
  4. I will be staying for the winter in San Diego after the racing season ends. I will be there until around April. I doubt the turbo Contour will be with me since we bring a different car in the race car trailer usually but you never know. We will stay in an RV park near the ocean, not sure of the name right now.
  5. I posted this on CEG as well. The power cable was the issue, appears to have been damaged by something metal kicked up by the tires. Replaced the power cable from the battery in the trunk to the engine harness and the performance is back to what a built 3.0 turbo should be :)
  6. Found the problem ( I think ). The main power cable from the battery in the trunk had damage and would intermittently touch ground. Found it near the rear tire as it went over the rear suspension. It was well protected in a plastic sheath but something must have kicked up and caused the damage to the cable. I am replacing it tonight.
  7. I have a turbocharged Contour. When I accelerate hard in second or third gear above 12 lbs. of boost the red light on the dash lights up and the car shuts down for an instant. If I accelerate slowly it will be fine all the way up to 18 lbs or until I run out of nerve. I am sure it is electrical because the light goes on just as if I turned the car off with the key and switched it back on. It must be due to torque motion of the engine under full load but will not happen in 5th gear. It is hard to test because 2nd and 3rd gear at over 75% throttle is difficult to control. This is not ha
  8. I have a real race car so this is just a toy. I never intended it to be a race car, exactly the opposite. I want to remain invisible to almost everyone, just have fun without attracting attention from the ricer crowd or the police. Turns out it is a fine daily driver now that it can handle the boost without destroying itself.
  9. I bought an old 3.0 for $160, stripped it down. Had the heads rebuilt, new forged rods, pistons, pins. Crank was balanced. That part was $2550 with gaskets. Transmission was about the same, Terry put new gears with 3.54 drive ratio, Torsen diff, keyed tower and anything else he could come up with. Turbo kit with stainless tubing was $3500 but was on the car when I bought it. So I have under 10 grand plus the car. It is a bargain in my mind. At the crank it probably makes 450 HP. It forces you to pay attention when you roll on the throttle. I get giddy driving this car ever
  10. Plus after you modify the motor we have to talk about the transmission. You will need a good aftermarket differential, 3.54 gear ratio instead of the 4.06 stock, and keyed shift tower to make sure the bolt doesn't break. The reason I put all this out there is because too many people start a big project without ever finishing it. Doing it once and right will save you in the long run.
  11. I hate to rain on anyone's parade but if you are going forced induction of any kind you really want to do it right. Forged rods, forged pistons, good pins, ARP head studs are just the start. You will spend so much time trying to fit a supercharger, and all the other components together, why would you want to do it over and over? The motor will break, it won't knock or let you know ahead of time either. It will just fling the rods out of the side of the block leaving you stranded with oil all over the roadway. Do it right, yes it will cost money but far less than the time required to
  12. Check fuel pressure. Fuel pumps are common problems.
  13. Any glass replacement place can remove and install the windshield without breaking them. There is always a chance of breakage but a good ( read OLDER ) installer can do this with no problem.
  14. Good point Terry. If the wire is OK then you will need to screw in a pressure gauge and check it if you really want to know for sure. You can get kits that have enough hose to put the gauge under the wiper blade and then drive it. Once it gets warm then switch gears and see if it drops below 10 lbs. I have a gauge on my Contour on the A-Pillar and it shows low oil pressure ( about 15 lbs ) when the engine is warm and at an idle. I don't have complete faith in the gauge's accuracy. I have the gauge very near to the turbo and the heat may cause more resistance. DO NOT put thicker oi
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