jeffmknight

.. same result as molding but "printed" instead, one layer at a time. I really like this new technology, but it seems to be heavily concealed since the gov't found out it could be used by the public to make illegal gun parts.. I would have bought a full set of these JPCs, but my baby is up for sale. Good idea though ContourMan I'm anxious to see the finished product!

Hope you're not running it without fluid in it, not even in 'neutral'! ..Now, regarding your questions: 1. Clutch is hydraulic self-adjusting type. Only thing you can do is make sure it's bled properly, the rest 'is what it is'. 2. You have probably read somewhere by now "absolutely never run ATF!".. The appropriate lube is a Full Synthetic Manual Trans Fluid http://www.fordconto...ans-lube-chart/ I am running Royal Purple Synchromax which many have used and is a bit less expensive than the Ford lube. I think there are a few others you can use, but these two are the best IMO. Should take almost three quarts, fill to spill. The port is an Allen-drive plug on the front of the trans. Drain is on the right side of the lower-most part of the trans, and IIRC it's also Allen.

Like I said, I am without my Ford CD for now so I am quite handicapped... IMRC plugged in or unplugged though, you will want to make sure the secondaries are fully closed because that will cause problems if they are not. If the IMRC has failed, there's no telling what position it has the butterflies in. Also, since you determined applying vacuum to the EGR causes it to stumble, and this is also your symptom, I would think the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid would be to blame here, esp since everything else tested ok.. So, basically your EGR operates properly, but IMO the control that runs the EGR may be acting up.

You said you unplugged the IMRC because it was acting up, so are the secondaries in the open or closed position? What about the EGR vac solenoid you and Spridget were talking about? Sorry, I am without my Ford CD right now...

Engine Mount, Trans Mount, Roll Restrictor, Roll Restrictor... and a Torque Strut HaHa

Sorry, I didn't understand the electrical tests you talked about earlier, so I thought I would throw out there that I had these parts if you needed them. Honestly, it sounds like the EGR is working as designed if it stalled when you applied vacuum to the port.. Though I do find it interesting that the Silver SVT I just sold to my buddy (94GT) has a persistent valve noise at all RPM, that doesn't go away but never really gets worse. I had discovered the PCV line was disconnected at the same place as yours was when I got it Have you verified that the IMRC is working properly?

Did you clean out the passages in the TB as Dom suggested? I am quite suprised at how fast the soot clogs them up! I have a good EGR tube with the EGR valve, gasket, and silicon DPFE hoses still attached. Took 'em off my car when I added the Racebits goodies and had it tuned out.. If you end up needing them I can sell 'em dirt cheap.

Looking forward to the day they give me like 40% off

Here is a code for 5% off RockAuto.com even though their prices already rock! I order tons of stuff from these guys and they are really quick on shipping, too. Good thru October 28th 2012, the code is 110308109048650 Everyone can use it, and you can do so as often as you like until it expires!

I know this sound silly but just make sure your plug wires are in the right locations. Seen it happen too many times! Otherwise I would have to say you're on the right track with the steps you've mentioned. I would also suggest a vacuum leak test if you haven't done that: get a cigar and blow smoke into the intake tract to see if there's any leaks. I found my TPS was leaking, so I added a gasket to it. Also, my VAC lines on the UIM were leaking, so I sealed those up as well. Sorry, but I don't think the TPS is adjustable.. IIRC you just put it on there and it's spring-loaded to 'ride' the throttle position without adjustability.

Also, we had discovered the PCV connection coming from the block had been disconnected. Not sure how long it was run like this.. just thought it might be important.

Thanks for the reply Dom. We fed it Seafoam thru the intake, drowning it for a 30min wet soak at the finish of the bottle. Started it back up and drove it some until the SilverSmokeShip was back to normal. After that we did the oil (M1) and filter (WIX). Also Autolite APP104 plugs and a Bosch wire set. No changes noted. We are still able to hear this noise when it's hot, but it is definitely much louder when cold..

The humming noise is probably 'the moose'. Do a search on here for that term. Its a fairly common sound from the Duratec V6 that comes from the whole intake manifold. Restricting the idle air feed may help with this. I put a 1/2" copper cap inside the hose with a 3/16" hole drilled in the cap to allow enough air for the Idle Air Control to do its thing, but not enough air to allow resonant vibrations to develop within the manifold. As far as the revving goes, since your O/D light is blinking I am inclined to think you have a trans issue.. sorry but I know very little about automatics. I would also check the cruise control cable at the throttle body. I know it's not common but my buddies Bimmer was doing this the other day to the point where he had both feet on the brake and the car was still creeping forward.. Broken cruise cable retainer at the TB was pulling the throttle open! Good Luck!

Have a fire extinguisher within reach at all times while doing this, and wear eye protection! Push the valve pin with a small tool such as a mini flatblade to release the fuel pressure at the port. Use some rags to block the spray and catch the spill. You will need a fuel filter release tool from the parts store to disconnect the lines from the filter. I can't remember what size maybe 3/8 or 7/16 (I bought the multi pack, cuz if you ever have to do anything up at the fuel rail, one of the garter-spring connectors there is a different size). Have more rags handy here as a considerable amount of fuel may still come out. After you install the new filter, turn the key on and off a few times to run the fuel pump. This should help get rid of any air in the lines and rebuild pressure. Hope this helps.

Glad it's fixed. I just wish it could have been easier for you, friend.

Terry, when I had this car I noticed the keeper for the brake booster line was broken off where it connects to the UIM. The tip seems to be broken as you can move it in and out of the UIM without resistance. Do you think the keeper could have made its way into a combustion chamber?

I have heard of such for these, but can't remember where I read it at I know Gar is doing some interesting stuff with his mid-engine build and it has an electric pump IIRC.. Even though it's rather pricey ($40 just for the pump mounting bracket?..) IMO this would be a great mod to do, not just for cosmetics but for hot shutdowns and more customizable cooling charactersitics

Did you replace the PCV while you were in there? From what I understand, it can cause rough idle and bad performance if it's clogged.. Also, I take it you've cleaned or replaced the IAC already..? Don't give up hope yet -- it'll be worth it when you get it top notch!

Been having a good time with the ole' no.630 with the recent power mods and some cosmetic changes. Such fun that I couldn't resist the temptation when a decent looking Silver Frost popped up on my locals for a damn cheap price. Wrecking yard cheap! Well, turns out it was a wrecking yard.. It's a 98 with 146k miles. Ad says it needs an ignition lock cylinder, $700 obo. Guy says it was an insurance tow that was about ready to go out to auction. Owner didn't want to pay his insurance so he lost it. Took a friend with me to get it in downtown Salt Lake. Not too bad looking: some clear peel on the passenger side, and a bubbly tint job. All the body looks good, no dents. Nice interior in the same midnight blue as my no.630. All four sideskirt caps in place, score! Turns out the key is stuck ON and can only be turned to START from there.. so to kill the car just put it in fifth and let the clutch out, open the hood and unhook the battery. Gonna see a locksmith about this ASAP. There's one across the street from the pawn shop here.. Near stock. Only mods I see are some nice sail panels, one blue front blinker bulb and the other missing, and there is some sub wiring. Also, there are pioneer tweeters at the top of the front door panels, possibly more good speakers hiding in the grilles.. Engine bay looks good, fairly clean for having sat the three months to clear auction hold. Shifts smooth and has really good power. Actually, on the way back from buying it, we did a 3rd gear pull and it was funny how close it was to my extensively-modded no.630 I was driving.. Also looks like its time for control arms on it, as well as struts, strut mounts & bearings. And there's a rattle coming from the top end of the motor. This is more concerning to me now because I found a receipt in the glovebox for 120 miles ago the previous owner had it at a mechanic for what was described as a spark plug blowing out the top of the engine, and the resulting thread repair work. Would the rattle from the top end have anything to do with the plug launching out of its threads? Like cylinder overpressure from a bad exhaust valve or something? Or worse, piston contact? Fluids look fine.. Well.. I guess I should save the questions for discussion in the appropriate forums. I will post some pics of the new addition to my addiction later today.

Giggity! I mean, how much you asking, friend?

Sorry, no offense but your spelling and missing punctuations make it hard to understand exactly what you're saying.. if I understood right, your guage stays at current temp when you turn the key off..? Mine falls to the extreme left when the key is turned off, and returns to whatever the current coolant temp is when turned back on. I assume that is the normal functionality. Yes, the orange connector in the picture Aussie posted is the one for the gauge (one wire). The other one, which looks black in the upper right of the pic, is the temp sensor for the PCM (two wires). I dunno if your connections are interchangeable, but maybe check to make sure the guy installed the different plugs to their appropriate sensors. Look at the metal coolant pipe from the driver's side: the one-wire connector goes to the sensor thats front and center in view, in the 'middle' of the pipe next to the large rubber hose connection... the two-wire connector goes to the sensor looking toward the right, on the 'rear' of the pipe that's closest to the starter. FYI -- Your connector may be a different color, I noticed mine is a black push-on with no clip. The connection reminds me of the old spark plug tops that are threaded and you just push the connector on and it makes a little zip noise..

LOL Robert you're killing me! Well, currently with the exchange rate between real and fake money, it's about $391 for the headers and y, or $282 for just the headers. It was higher back then, $402.10 for the headers and y shipped.

The second set of headers I bought were 180GBP, to replace the misfit first one I ended up destroying. The initial purchase of headers and y-pipe together was 250GBP.. both figures include shipping etc .. interesting, even after having to purchase two sets of headers and one y-pipe, still cheaper than a setup from MSDS here in the (greedy) States.

Wonder if the rear brakes were not working properly for some reason, and all the load was transferred to (and consequently overheated and warped) the front brakes.. Just a thought..

Check the wire. The temp sender for the guage uses a single-wire connection. It is below the throttle body and in front of the starter.. on the metal pipe that connects the rubber cooling hoses to the engine block. Not to confuse it with the nearby two-wire temp sender for the pcm, which runs independent from the gauge circuit. As far as coolant flow goes, you should check when it's hot. Have the motor running and rev it up a bit while watching the coolant tank. When the motor is hot and rpms are up, you should be able to see coolant moving within the tank as it circulates with more force. FYI - Your frequent usage of the A/C system will have no effect on the coolant level. The level may fluctuate somewhat during operation of the vehicle. It should rise a bit as the system warms & pressurizes and the air in the top of the tank gets compressed. If you are losing coolant, it is leaking out of the system somewhere. Basically, the A/C system uses a seperate high-pressure gas refrigerant that is not tied in any way to the engine's liquid cooling system. Hope this helps clear things up some..