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Manuel Valdez

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Manuel Valdez last won the day on March 31 2010

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About Manuel Valdez

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    Member
  • Birthday 05/29/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mexico City
  • Interests
    Computers & Video Games, my Mystique.

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    1995 Mystique LS

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  1. Hello, I am retaking this, O2 sensors were replaced, related codes aren't showing check engine is off and milleage improved a bit. I hadn't moved much the car since now it is my "sunday car", I took it to the service to do the smog test and they reviewed (no repair done since they had a lot of work at the moment) but they diagnosed it as a bad camshaft in cilynder 4; Since it has low compression but stable in the rest of the cylinders I suspect that the guy who rebuilt it didn't used the proper pistons, do any of you have a photo, part number or link about how the pistons should look like? On the other hand, I can have access to all camshafts from a 2003 3.0 Escape, so instead of repairing the camshaft I could replace them with those ones; Is this considered as a proper upgrade or is it advisable to keep the 2.5 ones even from other donor car? Thank you
  2. Hello, I got the airbag module, it showed the code 21, mostly indicating a bad connection, the manual says how to diagnose it, but before making more, had any of you dealed with this code before?
  3. Hello, At th end, I managed to find my Ford Contour/Mystique service manual, it was stored at my grand mothers house about 8 years ago. I found that the test module is just ast its name; a test module, it can't trigger the air bags deployment, this task is done directly by the crash sensors that are directly hard wired to the bags. With this information, I think that it is totally safe to plug the missing test module into the car, of course, the battery has to be disconnected for at least a minute before installing it. Even when in the service manual describes the expected voltages pin by pin, I think that my first step will be to test the system with the test module before taking any further step. As Dominic wrote, it could be dangerous for a hobbyst.
  4. Hello, While changing the bulbs from the dash cluster i found out that the airbag light had no bulb, after putting a new one I noticed a solid light; I think that the previous owner had the light and the fix was to remove the airbag module since it isn't one connected under the dashboard; the connectors are zip tied.... I had two theories: The repair cost was excesive for the previous owner and she decided to remove it or The servie cheated and remove it and deliver it as "fixed" Anyway, I can get a "new" module from a donor, not crashed car, but, I would like to test the airbag system before connecting the module... I want to reduce the risk to automatically deploy the bags at the moment of re connecting the battery after installing the module. Any of you know a way to test the health of the crash system before installing the module? Thank you.
  5. If anyone interested, this is an update. At the end I got myself an OBD1 scanner, I found that an O2 sensor was reading allways as lean, this was just one side. The sensor was replaced and the fuel smel is gone...
  6. The IAC failure is relatively common into our cars, it usually gets dirty and cleaning it can solve the problem, if not, a replacement is required, anyway, it is not difficult to do it, In the 23 years of my car, I just had to change it once 11 years (2007) ago and the moosing problem was solved.
  7. Update on this issue, the timing is fine, it has no issues, they double checked, one against timing marks and other time against the timing method. In the same session they also repaired a leak on the ATX, when doing this, they found that the wheel that the starter moves to start the engine was damaged, they replaced it while the ATX was out; I don't know how it is related but it now behaives a lot better when cold; it doesn't seem to suffer while accelerating and when I take it out from the basement. There is still some way to go; it still has bad milleage and since I have a code 176 related with a lean condition, I think that the next step is to check and/or replace the O2 sensors, since they were replaced 130,000 kms ago, new ones won't hurt. Update in a few weeks...
  8. Hello Dom, I really appreciate your offer, but I'm not skilled enough to do that kind of job, no space and tools to do it, but I need more info in order to talk about it with the guy of the service. How far are the false flags against the real ones?
  9. Hello Dom, That's the most direct answer that could explain all this... Is information available about this? I mean, is it documented somewhere? how about the correct way to synchronize it? Regards
  10. I found this post Dom states that the proper compression should be around 160 psi, with this, it is real that I have a compression problem, since it has new gaskets, it leads me to think that it may have an internal problem, the rings may be? I will need to evaluate this, it could be cheaper to replace the engine instead of repair it..
  11. Today I pulled codes from the ECU (I got an scanner), I got the next codes: Code 111, KOEO ==> System Pass Code 10 ==> This is not in the manual code 176, Continuous ==> Failrue into the HEGO (HO2S) sensor fault / allways lean. I didn't executed the KOER test since the user's maual says to not execute it until all previous codes are repaired. What is the HO2S sensor? the Oxigen sensor?
  12. Yes, it runs good when hot but with poor milleage, it used to provide 300kms per 3/4 tank, today, they are 220kms per the same 3/4 of tank, both measured in city trafic. The plugs and cables are new, they have at most 1000kms, the previous ones that were older provided me a little less milleage and less power at runing. I will have to talk, with the guy in the service... as I see it, in the mid to long term, it could be cheaper to replace the engine with a used (with warranty) but newer Mondeo engine.
  13. Hello, No, I hadn't scanned it yet, I will take it to the service next month for emission testing, I'll ask them to scan it, anyway, the Check Engine light is off. Vacum leak, I doubt it since it hasn't been run much since the engine was resurfaced, but still a possibility. What kind of problems can the injection system could present?
  14. Hello, Thank you for your information, I see that the issue is not as big as I initially thought. The engine runs "good" in load, but sometimes is a little rough when in idle and around 550-600 rpms, after a few seconds it changes and stabilizes around 750 rpm. The cylinders were machined about three years ago, the cylinders were adjusted to 0.20, I see then that I need to check with the guy that did the job to check the failing one. In the time this happens, does this justifies lack of power when cold and bad milleage? By now, the car is used about 7 to 10 days a month.
  15. I notice very low acceleration and very low milleage, it has new head gaskets, plugs and plug wires. On the other hand, in the engine specifications I found that the engine provides a compression of 9.7:1, if my maths are rigth this equals to 181.3 psi, at least I would belive this will be at sea level, it should be less at 1.4 miles over sea level but I don't think that justifies 65 psi less.
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