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G Jiggy

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About G Jiggy

  • Rank
    Junior Member

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  • Location
    Kenmore, WA
  • Interests
    Vintage road racing, photography, BBQ.

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    2000 Contour SVT #518
  1. Sensor ring. Hmm, that sounds entirely plausible. I'm familiar with the sensor rings and I should be able to see it the ring is bad in some way. But heck, who knows. I also have a buddy who has a shop with a much better scan tool than mine so I might enlist his help. I'll take a peek and get back to you if I have any questions. I really appreciate your advice by the way. Thanks.
  2. 2000 CVT well-kept 121K miles. This problem has happened 3 times or so in the past (a year or more between incidents) where the brakes upon application go almost to the floor and slow the car very little. Otherwise, the brakes work great with good, hard pedal. It's quite a surprise when it happens. No heavy braking preceded the failure. This last time I was coming off the freeway onto a favorite twisty off ramp and hadn't used the brakes to slow but downshifted. As I rounded the last corner that merged onto the local highway I hit the brakes to slow for traffic and the pedal went almost to the floor. Kinda rode that out for about 50 feet and then hit them again and they were low and slowing the car but nothing compared to the amount of pressure I was exerting, which was considerable. The pedal came back after that and seems OK. Even tried a few hard stops after that from about 35 or 40 and they were hard and effective. No ABS brake light illuminated or CEL. When I got the car years ago (2009) with about 60K on it and a fresh brake job at that point (two new rotors and pads, I don't know if they did calipers). Figuring 60K from taking possession I could use a brake job so I have a fresh set of drilled rotors, pads, lines and caliper kits in the wings ready to go but I'd really like to find out what causing this problem before I delve into the new stuff.
  3. Needed some relays to test the fans on my 2000 SVT and I found the same part number on relays from a 2000 Ford Explorer. I used those and they seem to work fine. I first looked at the relays from a 4 cyl Contour and the 4 cyl Contour replays are smaller and a different part number. The part number on the Explorer/V-6 Contour relays is: F57B-14B192-AA.
  4. Looks like I get one fan at full temp and the selector in the "OFF" position and the other fan kicks in with the A/C on. Seems normal to me. At least that's how my SAAB functions when the A/C is used. Steve
  5. A couple of things here. You didn't say what the mileage was but if it is over 80K it could be the fuel injectors. Generally speaking, the fuel injectors need to be serviced at about that point. Bad plug wires, bad plugs and dirty or bad fuel injectors all have the same symptom. Around here we have a place called Dr. Injector that will flow check, sonically clean and then flow check (again) the injectors. A lot cheaper than buying them new. You also get a new o-rings and some "special" grease back with them. Costs about 35 bucks each. Injectors are easy to do and if your injectors need attention than you probably need to clean the throttle body too. Buy the special cleaner and make sure the TPS (throttle position sensor) is on the other side of the room when you do the cleaning. The back of the throttle body (and that's what gets dirty) is coated with Teflon (I think that's what it is) and the special cleaner is kind to it as opposed to cleaning solvent or something. As for plugs, I have been advised by a damn good mechanic to stay away from the Platinum plugs and do Iridium instead. He was telling me that he's had problems with Platinums missing with not a lot of mileage on them so he's gone to Iridium plugs. I did Iridiums on my SVT and they work great. Consider these two things normal maintenance. Report back.
  6. Well, I just feel damned foolish. Thanks for the help on this guys. I have to admit, my diagnostic skills sure have deteriorated with age. I'll go back into my hole now . . . S
  7. You know Terry, when I read yours I said (eyes rolling, slap head) "Oh no, I can't be that stupid!!". But I may be, it was set at FLR/DEF. So, let's see . . . to answer you question. So, with a cold morning start: OFF- No fans running PNL/FLR - No fans running FLOOR - No fans running FLR/DEF - Fans running (with A/C cycling) DEF - Fans running (with A/C cycling) PANEL - No fans running A/C and MAX A/C - Fans running (with A/C cycling) So that begs the question. My other cars I have/had do not run the fan/fans continually when the defrost is selected. I can understand full fan operation when full A/C is selected but where just the defrost is selected (with A/C in some sort of operation)? Is this normal for Fords or do I still have a problem? Steve
  8. THnaks for the quick reply Gar; Well, here's what I've done so far. I pulled off the connector to the high pressure switch (it's right by the coolant overflow tank) and started the car. The fans didn't engage. I plugged the connector back in and the fans started. I pulled the connector off and the fans kept running. The connector is a four wire design of: a black wire, a black with a blue trace, a green and a green with a red trace. Which two would I pick to measure resistance? Steve P.S.: I also took a look at your project pix. Very good use of a Duratec. Seems like such a natural.
  9. Anybody, The cooling fans on my 2000 SVT are running all the time from cold start-up until I shut it down. The temp gauge reads normal (although it takes awhile to get there). At this point I have swapped out both the relays (high speed and low speed) with KGUs (known good units) and that didn't cure the problem. I heard somewhere (in the distant past) that the PCM controls the cooling fans, not a temp switch. So I guess the question is: Is there a temp switch somewhere that controls the fans? If so, where? If not, is the PCM the culprit and does that need to be changed? If so, where is that? Sounds expensive . . . Thanks.
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