Jump to content

ccoach

Members
  • Content Count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ccoach

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://WeSingBarbershop.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Detroit
  • Interests
    Singing / performing / directing my Barbershop Harmony chorus and maintaining my fleet of Ford products.
    1998 Sable 3.0 DOHC
    1998 Contour SE 2.5 DOHC
    1998 Mercury Tracer (no, not another DOHC)
    2001 Windstar

Previous Fields

  • Vehicle owned
    1999 Contour SE 2.5/ATX
  1. Is this something I could find locally? What does it do? I really appreciate your help! :) Scott
  2. Dom, Help! I need to know how to deal with the alt hitting the end of the exhaust manifold! Scott
  3. The nuts are .465 inches tall. They also are identical to the top retainer nut EXCEPT for the nylon portion. In other words - if you grind off the nylon insert section, you would have the same nut as the lower retainer nut Also, no Ford dealer had these in stock in Michigan - 1 day ordering to get. And they cost $8 each. Either plan ahead or go to plan B (junkyard) or plan C and improvise your own. One last finding - as theorized above, it was possible to remove both of the nuts with the spring/strut still in the car. That's what I did at the junkyard, and the strut never moved. Scott
  4. Thanks Terry... Off to another dealer or the junkyard :)
  5. Turns out I have one of these situations - the right strut basically just hanging there. Ford dealer doesn't have the nuts - have to order them at $8 each. Can I use a short hardened nut (m12 x 1.25)? How tall are the correct nuts? Scott
  6. I 'assume' the 2 no-longer-needed wires should be 'butted-off'? Scott
  7. Dom - thanks again for taking the time to talk with me about this swapout. I've located all 3 parts (the connector was the tough one) and will chase them down this afternoon. Will you be posting the electrical changes/photos here in the blog or over in the forum thread? Thanks! Scott
  8. So my engine / trans are hanging in mid-air tonight - my first engine pull! :) Since this is likely to be a one-time shot at easy access to the engine, I got to thinking... Having suffered the experience of changing the alternator in the middle of last winter, I was wondering about making the next alternator change easier. Can those alternator bolts be turned around so they face the *right* way? * Drill out the threaded side and a nut put on the other end. Getting a wrench on a static nut is a whole lot different than having to turn it! * Or... Upsize the bolt and tap the hole on the backside? Anyone done anything like this? Btw, the current bolts stick out the end at least the same distance as the head of the bolt would - that should satisfy clearing the belt. Scott 98' SE 2.5 / ATX (soon to be "Redbird's" second trans)
  9. Is there an existing thread that contains a step-by-step write-up on the engine/trans removal? I'd also like to know if one exists for dropping an ATX out the bottom. Trying to determine which would be better than the other for doing a trans exchange. Scott Detroit 1998 SE 2.5/ATX
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.