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rk2k2

Let's talk clutches for a moment

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So a couple years ago I bought a SPEC 1 clutch and flywheel, which is still in it's sealed packaging. At the time I chose it the 'chatter' issue seemed aceptable to me and the opinions on drivability were pretty much positive. Lately I have read basically a disdain for the SPEC's. After a couple descriptions of the clutches high release point I was reminded of a Hays clutch I had in my 65 Mustang in the 70's. I thought it was cool back then but now I'm thinking 'No, I want it pretty near the stock feel'. Soooo .... I have ordered the Sach's clutch off Ebay for $285. I suppose I will be having to take a bit (probably a lot) of a loss on the SPEC when I sell it. My thought has been I'd just get a stock SVT flywheel and I'd be assured the clutch is going to feel pretty much just as it was. Another thought was rather than take a loss on the flywheel also, maybe using the SPEC flywheel wouldn't be significantly objectionable to me. I am aware due to the flywheel being 6-8 lbs (?) lighter than stock that it will be noticably different on take off due to the reduced inertia.

 

Question is, with the torque gain I'd expect from the 3.0, will the lighter flywheel significantly alter drivability on take off (think occasional stop and go commute traffic on the freeway)?

 

I was going to try and sell the whole package on the 'other' site first to see what I'll get, but I'm not being allowed to post in the classifieds- wonder if I've been blackmarked for visiting here?!!!!

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...use the ally flywheel with the Sachs clutch,should have no issues.A 2005 3.0 in SVT I did had an ally flywheel and a center force dual friction clutch...no probs.

 

 

PHEW!!! For a moment I almost thought you said use the ally flyweel and SPEC clutch. That would have been a pisser since I just orders the Sachs yesterday!

 

Thanks for the info, I look forward to using the ally flywheel

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I've ordered a few Sach's clutches from the same eBay seller. LTIparts run by Art Loos. Nice guy, lives about 100 miles from me.

 

I'm using the Sach's kit with a 9lb Fidanza. It's not bad at all. The clutch handles the torque of the 3L. Starts from stop are not difficult, requires a little more slip than what you might by used to, but the Sach's clutch has a very smooth engagement and very light pedal effort. No noise or chatter.

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I've ordered a few Sach's clutches from the same eBay seller. LTIparts run by Art Loos. Nice guy, lives about 100 miles from me.

 

I'm using the Sach's kit with a 9lb Fidanza. It's not bad at all. The clutch handles the torque of the 3L. Starts from stop are not difficult, requires a little more slip than what you might by used to, but the Sach's clutch has a very smooth engagement and very light pedal effort. No noise or chatter.

 

Yeah, that's the guy. Came to a total of $305 after shipping. If it's just a little slip to adjust to I can deal with that. I haven't been able to find any 'official' specs on the SPEC, but isn't it like 12.5 lbs? Suppose since I'll be keeping it I'll take it out of the packaging and weigh it after work

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...a word of caution when fitting the ally flywheel..Do NOT force it over the crank...it is a tight fit...be sure you know the exact bolt holes to locate to...they have a stagger...mark one hole with a permanent marker on the crank and its matching hole on the flywheel...WARM THE HUB SECTION OF THE FLYWHEEL WITH A HEAT GUN....and have the crank flange 100% clean....fit the f/wheel and hold it dead flat as you put in the bolts(WITH 'hard' steel washers!)..torque them to spec AND CHECK THE RUNOUT!!!

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...a word of caution when fitting the ally flywheel..Do NOT force it over the crank...it is a tight fit...be sure you know the exact bolt holes to locate to...they have a stagger...mark one hole with a permanent marker on the crank and its matching hole on the flywheel...WARM THE HUB SECTION OF THE FLYWHEEL WITH A HEAT GUN....and have the crank flange 100% clean....fit the f/wheel and hold it dead flat as you put in the bolts(WITH 'hard' steel washers!)..torque them to spec AND CHECK THE RUNOUT!!!

 

 

Are you SURE I have to do it that way? I shouldn't use my 20LB sledge? :D

 

I'm having the swap done by someone but I'll have the engine for a few weeks after it comes back from the machine shop. Figure maybe I'll do a few things (like installing the flywheel) when I'm off for the holidays. You recommend using new bolts/washers or you think using the existing would be ok? Course, does a flex plate use the same size hardware as the flywheel?

 

Out of curiosity, have you had issues with runout on the SPEC's (or anyone else's) or is that just common sense practice? My friend is a retired Mercedes mechanic and has any mics and dial guages I might need so there isn't any issue on tools I might need. So I suppose you wonder why I'm not doing the swap myself? Simple- I don't know what the hell I'm doing anymore :o

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After a couple descriptions of the clutches high release point I was reminded of a Hays clutch I had in my 65 Mustang in the 70's. I thought it was cool back then but now I'm thinking 'No, I want it pretty near the stock feel'.

 

What?? You don't like driving a car with 'truck' clutch??!! :P

 

I have a stage 3 and honestly, I love the way the thing feels. It's not the frinedliest, but come to think of it, I'm not always that nice to it! :D

 

Makes a nice 'WHAM' when you get aggresive with the releases!

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I've ordered a few Sach's clutches from the same eBay seller. LTIparts run by Art Loos. Nice guy, lives about 100 miles from me.

 

I'm using the Sach's kit with a 9lb Fidanza. It's not bad at all. The clutch handles the torque of the 3L. Starts from stop are not difficult, requires a little more slip than what you might by used to, but the Sach's clutch has a very smooth engagement and very light pedal effort. No noise or chatter.

 

 

Just weighed my SPEC flywheel and it comes in at 8.2 lbs. What? I thought it was supposed to weigh 12? Anyway, the only flyweels I've ever had and actually saw ('65 289 Mustang, 66 Chevelle 396, 76 Mustang 2.8- crap!) the flywheels were completly flat on the friction side. Having just looked at this SPEC for the first time I noticed it is raised on the outside perimeter where the pp mounts. Is this standard on all the Contour clutches meaning anyones pp will mount correctly? Or is this how all flywheels are now?!!!

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that is correct. Although not important to your setup, when the stock flywheel is machined, the outer edge must be machined to the same spec or the pressure plate may not put enough pressure on the clutch disc.

 

FWIW - when I ordered new flywheel bolts for my Contour, the bolts that came out of the pressure plate on the '03 block where identical to the new flywheel bolts.

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....the bolts that came out of the pressure plate on the '03 block where identical to the new flywheel bolts......

 

 

........are you sure?....Pressure plate bolts the same as flywheel bolts??? NOT in this lifetime!!! :D

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....the bolts that came out of the pressure plate on the '03 block where identical to the new flywheel bolts......

 

 

........are you sure?....Pressure plate bolts the same as flywheel bolts??? NOT in this lifetime!!! :D

 

 

Yes I'm sure. I was surprised, but they were the same length.

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....the bolts that came out of the pressure plate on the '03 block where identical to the new flywheel bolts......

 

 

........are you sure?....Pressure plate bolts the same as flywheel bolts??? NOT in this lifetime!!! :D

I think you mean the flex plate bolts are the same as the flywheel bolts, the pressure plate/flywheel are not the same, and '03 block was an auto(flex not fly)

I would replace any used TTY bolts anyway

Good Luck Rikk

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I think you mean the flex plate bolts are the same as the flywheel bolts, the pressure plate/flywheel are not the same, and '03 block was an auto(flex not fly)

I would replace any used TTY bolts anyway

Good Luck Rikk

 

Oops :unsure: You are correct... flywheel and flex plate bolts were the same!

 

I don't believe the flywheel/flex plate bolts are TTY. They are fine thread and quite short...

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