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wchain

Returnless Fuel Pump Installation Instructions

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I have scanned the instruction Manual for the Motorcraft Fuel Pump Replacement.

 

This is the PFS289 fuel tank "Kit" that includes everything. Rubber O ring, Lock Ring, Convolute, Nylon Lock ring for the fuel neck, rubber grommet for the fuel neck, updated flapper etc. This kit addresses many issues with the Contour Returnless fuel system, including the stuttering/bucking (what my 00 CSVT was doing), the shutoff when filling up (didn't have an issue here), and removal of the swirl chamber/swirl pot.

 

The one thing that is NOT included in this kit is the Rotunda Cutter tool (Part number 310-133) which is a bronze tipped cutter that is used to nip the tabs that hold the existing swirl pot in the bottom of the tank. This tool with my discount is 180.00, and I find them online for 230+!! I checked with a local tech at the Ford Dealer and he told me that they use cutting dikes to cut them, do not twist or rock as the tabs are part of the lower tank floor. CUT ONLY. As long as they are in a ventilated area. ***DISCLAIMER** I am not advising or recommending you remove the tabs like this. This is merely what I have been told!!! Always use eye and skin protection when working with gasoline. Make sure area is well ventilated!!!

 

The directions are for complete tank removal but I think most of us here will be cutting a hole below the back seat.

 

I will post this at another board as well. Please do NOT recopy and link these photos elsewhere. I'm sharing with you guys because I am appreciative of the vast amount of information that I have received by searching the forums and doing lots of reading, so its nice to give back now and then. I will be tackling this job myself this weekend and I'll do a write up/Pictorial.



CTFP1-vi.jpg

 

CTFP2-vi.jpg

 

CTFP3-vi.jpg

 

CTFP4-vi.jpg

 

CTFP5-vi.jpg

 

CTFP6-vi.jpg

 

Continued Below...

Edited by BuckeyeSVT

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heheh, I don't even remember seeing this thread before. For retrofitting the updated pump assembly, I just used a low profile utility knife to cut the tabs off the tank bottom.

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Here's some pics from my archives (2006) of a 2000 Contour SVT fuel pump installation.... I didn't install the rollover valve because he wasn't having a problem with that - Just going dry around corners.

 

New replacement pump kit (Ford factory cutting tool is sitting on left)

FPR1.jpg

 

Cut floor back on sides to access pump completely.

FPR2.jpg

 

Retainer ring removed, pump pulled out.

FPR3.jpg

 

Inserting Ford tool to cut mounting ring out of tank.

FPR4.jpg

 

Pic depicting the tools orientation and how to cut the tabs.

FPR5.jpg

 

Mounting ring removed.

FPR6.jpg

 

New fuel pump installed - Retainer installed.

FPR7.jpg

 

Floor smoothed out, seams sealed and rubber plug reinstalled - Done!

FPR8.jpg

 

-Dom

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I am going to have to get this done as when my 2K gets under 1/4 tank it will just cut out under high load. and the scary thing the other weekend was I took an on ramp pretty fast and after that with less then 1/4 tank any time I gave it any gas it would just fall on its face. luckly there was a rest area pretty close and I was able to fill up and the problem went away ... that and I found alot of crap in the fuel filter when i replaced it ....

Edited by BrApple

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Thanks for fixing it buckeye!

 

I wish I knew you had that tool! I would have rented it from you!

Edited by wchain

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Thanks for the info and pics!

I finally have some confidence to do this since I have a preview of what needs to be done!

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This is the the sorta of info that -- well it's awesome good detail.

 

I have two 98's early 07\97 and late 98 08\98. The early one I pulled the pump over last week-end and inspected all looks AOK the filter wing is clean, which I guess maybe the reason it's still working after 11 years & 80+k miles. I'm thinking all the Techron over the first 4-5 years and since then been experimenting with acetone has maybe kept it clean? Or maybe it's because, 99%of the time, never letting the tank go below 1/2 tank except on trips and that's only a short time. OR could be just plain dumb LUCK?????? :rolleyes:

This pump was marked 97BP-9H307-BB which after 3-4 number changes as of 08-25-08 is now F8RZ-9H307-BD This is ok til 12-09-97 built dates. I forgot to measure the round cover plates diameter which after taking the 08/98 apart today (yes the early back on the road today) appears to be larger diameter?

 

The late 98 08\98 has the issue with the smaller floor pan access hole but is still a return type design. It seems the pump's round stainless steel mounting disc is slightly small and my early 98. I think it may have enough clearance but didn't try to remove the pump? After carefully using 2X4 and crow-bar prying/lifting the opening on left, right/door sides and back side of the opening is now same height as the front (clearance is 3/4" or more all the way around between floor metal and tank) It looks level with the front edge and the rubber seal fits nicely.

This pump was marked 98BP-9H307-AB which now crosses to F8RZ-9H307-AE and costs about $60 more than the early pump? The returnless pump starts after built dates 05-02-99!

In case someone wondering why did I mess with something thats working, well it's this early forced retired fixed budget only allows one licensed/insurance covered vehicle on the road at a time! That's why the 08/98 it's my spare/back-up and just like in the military I can swap parts or compare how things comes apart /etc. Unfortunately unlike the military this run of vehicles, the parts changed faster than the model years changed. BEAN-COUNTER engineering!!!!! :rolleyes: Hopefully this makes sense? :rolleyes:

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I would like to add a few comments. First, this is definitely the way to go. A lot of people just replace the pump itself. It will not fix the problem! there is a reason the entire module is updated. Second, I highly recommend dropping the tank to do this as opposed to cutting the floor. I dropped my tank and discovered the filler neck was not fully seated to the grommet in the tank. I also had excessive junk floating around in the tank. The kit is supplied with a new grommet and I think there is a reason for it. If you cut the floor, you may never know that your tank is allowing crap to enter into it

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Dom, you only show that one pic of the new fuel module, is it similar to the old one, and if so with that ring removed from the bottom of the tank what keeps it in place? as the old on is only attached to the top by some wires and that fuel line. The ring you remove is what keeps it in place.

 

Regards,

AF

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Ok Terry, now I'm confused because when I took apart the 99 in the jy (doing research you know) the pump module was locked into that swirl pot. You have to twist it a quarter turn to separate it from that piece you cut out. You can see in the pic of the old unit that Dom posted it is flexable from the top plate so to me it is feasable that if it was just sitting in the tank it could flop around a bit under the right conditions......

sideways through cornors and over bumps etc... not that I would ever do such things..... cool.gif

 

Unless the new fuel module is attached to the top plate then it might have similar issues when the ring on the bottom is removed. I just didn't see what was going on good in the pic's is all or in reading the posted info. From what I can see the new one looks similar with that fuel line sticking out as is shows in the pic of it.

 

FPR3.jpg

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Ok Terry, now I'm confused because when I took apart the 99 in the jy (doing research you know) the pump module was locked into that swirl pot. You have to twist it a quarter turn to separate it from that piece you cut out. You can see in the pic of the old unit that Dom posted it is flexable from the top plate so to me it is feasable that if it was just sitting in the tank it could flop around a bit under the right conditions......

sideways through cornors and over bumps etc... not that I would ever do such things.....

 

Unless the new fuel module is attached to the top plate then it might have similar issues when the ring on the bottom is removed. I just didn't see what was going on good in the pic's is all or in reading the posted info. From what I can see the new one looks similar with that fuel line sticking out as is shows in the pic of it.

 

post-6052-124889635242_thumb.jpg

 

The new module is attached to the top plate. It also has springs that push it downward, and little feet on the bottom. When you install it, it is suspended from the plate, the springs hold pressure on the feet to the bottom of the tank, holding it in place.

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The swirl pot in the bottom of the tank is not to support the pump and sender unit, that is done by the top plate and lock ring on the whole assy.

 

 

Does anyone know the capacity of this fuel pump, in Liters/hour?

 

I called the dealer twice and they have no idea what so ever......

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This is very useful info for me - especially the pix!  Last week i swapped the fuel filter to fix a fuel starvation problem - and i may need to replace the pump next if the problem persists.

 

Of course - much easier for me with a '95/return fuel pump ;)

 

What a great forum!

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Thanks! And that was the reason I added my pics so people could see how to shortcut the installation easier than dropping the tank.

 

-Dom

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I have tried to find a solution in the forums about the issue that I am having.  I have a 99 ford contur and it will run for a while and then die.  I have checked the fule pump and I can hear it engage when I turn the key.  The vehicle will start and I can rev the engine for a while and then let it idle normaly for a while then it will die and will not start untill I let it sit for a few moments.  I was wondering if this is as simple as a cloged fule filter or cloged injectors.  I am also wondering if I just need to get a bottle of fule injector cleaner and try that.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions?

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In the 2nd photo where you cut back the seat the pump mod has two connections. I was able to pull the pin out successfully on the 1st one, but im a little stumped on how to remove the one that has the rubber connector. Any advice on how to remove that connection?

 

 

 


Cut floor back on sides to access pump completely.
FPR2.jpg
 

 

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