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Filled Rear Roll Restrictor How-To

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Great how-to, and very timely! I got a spare rear RR in the mail last week and I just ordered some 94A from McMaster-Carr. I'm hoping to have this done before I make a trip back to Iowa next weekend, but we'll see what happens!

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Great how too! You are forgetting traitors like Bush and Cheney in your little political rant!

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Guest KAOS_2.5M

+1, great write up

 

something I'll be doing faily shortly.

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Great how-to, and very timely! I got a spare rear RR in the mail last week and I just ordered some 94A from McMaster-Carr. I'm hoping to have this done before I make a trip back to Iowa next weekend, but we'll see what happens!

Thanks I got my 60A kit from them and the kit came in this large box that would hold at least ten of them, with no packing..... I'm sure it was plenty shook up by the time I got it... :P

 

+1, great write up

 

something I'll be doing faily shortly.

It is a lot easier to do than the impression I got from reading the information I found on doing this..... which is why I did this write up. I hope it comes across as simple as it really is.

 

 

Great how too! You are forgetting traitors like Bush and Cheney in your little political rant!

Young fellow you have no idea what a political rant is. But for your information there are a lot of traitors that I do not include on my list of jackasses that I don't even waste time thinking about, like bill and hillary for example. I don't care about them and just choose to ignor them. They have had a detremental effect on the country as a whole but not so much me personally. fonda and kerry have had an effect on me and while I have killed many people I never killed any babies like kerry and fonda said I did. If you don't like my sig tough I earned it! I have the bullet holes and medals to prove it. You on the other hand have no idea even what it means!

 

This is a thread about roll restrictors not jackasses.

 

Now then thanks for the comment about the how to. I will be addressing the front ones soon.

 

AF

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Thank you my friend, I hope my revised DD one turns out as well as the first one. I was just messing around with the left overs and that 80A is really hard compaired to the 60A, but the 60A is just a hair tougher than the original rubber. It will be interesting to see how it turns out.

 

Hint: waiting for rubber to cure is not quite as much fun as watching paint dry, but only b/c paint is faster..... B)

 

AF

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The rest of the story:

While the performance was there with the 80A urethane I found it a bit hard for a DD in that I didn't care for the transmitted vibrations. Granted after a couple of days it started to just sound normal to me, but I still didn't care for it at idle. I ordered some 60A urethane from McMaster-Carr, and prepped the take off RR I had. This one was bad, but I reasoned that since I was going to fill it that was not an issue.

 

Using a citrus base degreaser I soaked it for a day then rinsed it good, and cleaned it again with brake cleaner and Q-tips. After drying for a day in the hot sun I figured it was ready.

 

I did not remove any rubber this time, but made a cover for the bottom and taped it into place. Sealed the center up with duct tape as above.

 

I further reasoned that the rubber in the part took up about half of the area. You can see there are void areas in the part as well as holes in the outer discs.

 

I carefully divided the urethane kit into two equal parts and mixed up half of my material.

 

As I poured it in slowly through the holes, I had the part in a vice, and tapped the side with a plastic faced hammer. This helped remove trapped air. Also just filling slowly should provide plenty of escape routs for air. Watching air bubbles come out as it neared the top indicated that the process worked.

 

I followed the process waiting awhile then removing the cover and it appeared to be filled well.

 

After three days I installed it tonight and went for a spin. I am pleased with the results so far, but will wait a week or so before actually claiming victory. IF you have a bad RR on a DD this might just be the way to go...

 

So what is the difference between the 60A & 80A urethanes? well the rubber that is in the RR is about the same as the 60A, and the 80A is harder than a tire. I can squeeze a 1/4" x 3" disc in half, I can not do that with an 80A similar disc. Only barely compress it.

 

Regards,

AF

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Since it's pinned, can you clean up the off-topic drivel?

 

Cleaned up without losing any content (even if it is a little political...).

 

-Dom

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Guest KAOS_2.5M
Nice write up, thanks for it.

So do you want to sell the 80A RR you didn't care for?

-J

 

 

damn, beat me to it. I was going to ask the same thing.

 

is it the aluminum RR or the steel one?

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Nice write up, thanks for it.

So do you want to sell the 80A RR you didn't care for?

-J

 

Yes and there is a guy here in PDX giving it a try if he likes it well..... if not I'll PM you

 

 

damn, beat me to it. I was going to ask the same thing.

 

is it the aluminum RR or the steel one?

 

The filled ones are both the steel ones which I think is best for that application. Perhaps I might fill the aluminum one with the 60A stuff. The modification I did to the stock one seems to be working well for my DD application.

 

AF

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I just got mine installed today, so I thought I'd add a few things to note.

 

Here's my newly-cast restrictor. I used doubled-sided foam mounting tape on the bottom of the RR to attach the cardboard, and it worked very well at keeping the urethane in. Unfortunately my duct tape over the center tube didn't do a very good job, and it leaked.

 

IMG_0426.jpg

 

Here's my old RR. Just a tad worn out:

IMG_0461.jpg

 

Here's the old one partially off of the car. The two smaller bolts had 13mm heads. I hit them with PB blaster a few minutes before beginning work, but I'm not sure how much good that did. The first one (the stud) took a loooot of force with a plain wrench, since I don't have a 13mm deep well socket. The second bolt required my 18"-handled torque wrench to get loose, but I finally got it. The long bolt vertical bolt had a 14mm head, and the bolt through the center was 15mm.

IMG_0466.jpg

 

I used a 2x4 between my hydraulic jack and the transaxle. I lifted the whole car up a couple inches, and then found that lifting it a couple more helped get the center bolt out of the RR.

IMG_0468.jpg

 

And here's the new one installed. I spent about 10 minutes searching for the center bolt. Turns out it rolled under the lip of my jack and I couldn't find it anywhere. I'm capable of losing pretty much anything.

IMG_0476.jpg

 

 

Old vs. New:

IMG_0471.jpg

 

 

 

Afterthoughts:

I used the 94A hardness, and wow, what a difference. My high speed and acceleration shudder are gone, but replaced by definite vibrations. It was immediately noticeable when starting the car, and I can definitely tell it's there during idle and acceleration. It's not all bad though - having traction and eliminating that pesky wheel hop is great.

 

The installation from start to finish took me about an hour (as evidenced by my pictures' time stamps) but it'd be easy to do it in half that time.

Edited by Laminar

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Nice job, but I have to ask a couple of things.... First I wonder if something has been done to your car and your old RR since all of the ones I have seen including my 99 and IIRC I've removed a 95, 98, & 96 they were all held in place by 3 bolts + thru bolt and all had 15mm heads on them no studs like you show. Just a bit strange to me. IF the center on your old RR is oriented in the manner it was when you removed it did you notice that the nubs were up and down not horizontal? that means the soft void space was down and would allow a lot of excessive movement. I wonder if this is the cause of many failures?

 

In raising the car I used a 2x6 on top of my jack too and placed it on the oil pan to adjust the position of the engine/MTX, but I first raised the car and put it on jack stands. When I was reading your post it just sounded to me that you lifted the car with your jack under the MTX.... I am wrong about that right???

 

Yes that taping around the center is important and must be done well to keep it from leaking. That urethane runs well into any little opening. The second one I did, I didn't have any leaks.... LOL

 

Wouldn't you agree the project over all is a fairly easy mod to do?

 

Thanks for your input and pics.

 

AF

Edited by Aussie Ford

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Nice job, but I have to ask a couple of things.... First I wonder if something has been done to your car and your old RR since all of the ones I have seen including my 99 and IIRC I've removed a 95, 98, & 96 they were all held in place by 3 bolts + thru bolt and all had 15mm heads on them no studs like you show. Just a bit strange to me. IF the center on your old RR is oriented in the manner it was when you removed it did you notice that the nubs were up and down not horizontal? that means the soft void space was down and would allow a lot of excessive movement. I wonder if this is the cause of many failures?

 

In raising the car I used a 2x6 on top of my jack too and placed it on the oil pan to adjust the position of the engine/MTX, but I first raised the car and put it on jack stands. When I was reading your post it just sounded to me that you lifted the car with your jack under the MTX.... I am wrong about that right???

 

Yes that taping around the center is important and must be done well to keep it from leaking. That urethane runs well into any little opening. The second one I did, I didn't have any leaks.... LOL

 

Wouldn't you agree the project over all is a fairly easy mod to do?

 

Thanks for your input and pics.

 

AF

 

Definitely easier than I expected. I can't vouch for the work done by the guy that swapped in my 3.0, I have no idea what he did/used, so that might be where the odd bolts came from.

 

I glanced at my computer screen right AFTER pouring in the urethane and saw your picture outlining the correct orientation of the nubs. That was an "oops" on my part.

 

I didn't mention that my car was up on ramps. You can see them in at the fourth picture - they're basically 2x10s stacked gradually so that my front bumper doesn't hit as I drive up them. Each ramp is 4 levels thick, so it raises the car up about 7-8 inches, which is just enough that I can squeeze under.

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I made some more last night. This time using '97 V6 mounts. The original mounts were completely toast. I ordered new inserts for the brackets, then filled them with 94A.

 

gallery_2786_155_35823.jpg

gallery_2786_155_121722.jpg

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Looks good my friend, but that's going to be one loud ride. no wheel hop though......

 

BTW I am selling my 80A rear roll restrictor. If anyone is interested PM me.

 

AF

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I had done this a while back on my SVT with 94A to reduce/eliminate wheel hop. It was a very good improvement but there is a bit of added NVH. So, since the Cougar needed new mounts, I figured i'd try some 80A. Still a good bit of NVH but a little less than the 94A's. IMO a bit harsh for a DD unfortunately. However, I filled both my front and rear mount so i'm sure that added a bit too.

 

I've got an extra set i'm going to try filling with 40A (Yes, I know it's a bit soft but i'm filling both front and rear mounts). Just placed the order so we'll see how that is!

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I made some more last night. This time using '97 V6 mounts. The original mounts were completely toast. I ordered new inserts for the brackets, then filled them with 94A.

 

gallery_2786_155_35823.jpg

gallery_2786_155_121722.jpg

 

 

would you be willing to do a more detailed how-to on that?

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I bought the 94A from McMaster-Carr online. A 1qt can will fill two mounts/restrictors. I used aluminum foil tape (a type of duct tape) to seal the bottom. I spread a thin coat of silicone (tire shine, "back to black") on the exposed sticky surface of the tape after it was applied the mount to serve as a releasing agent. I placed the mount on a level surface and poured the mixed 94A into the mount. It does not take long to dry, but takes about 24 hours to fully cure. I've made several of these with different mounts and have never had any problems. The harder 94A will add some noise and vibration especially at lower revs and sitting at idle with the A/C on, but it eliminates wheel hop and engine movement.

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