Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 so take a look guys, 02 Sable engine with 37K miles, looks ok to me. Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-24 bafoons wrote the stock number on my plastic valve cover. also, why isn't there the silver module that bolts to the front bank valve cover on mine? is that the IMRC module? Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-24 I now see how different the taurus timing cover is Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-24 what the hell went here? Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-25 the bad side from the wreck. a steel coolant line is dented up pretty bad, but not pinched off. I also broke the dipstick handle muscling the engine around the back of an exploder sport. so what do yall think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 What do I think? Good luck. No IMRC on 2000+ Taurus 3.0L engines, your missing the IAC valve on the top of the intake and I hope there is nothing else damaged on the lower front corner or you just bought yourself a $200 paperweight. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 Looks OK to me. You should have seen how my first 3L arrived. Looked like they rolled it off the dock!!! You won't need the crushed coolant lines. No IMRC on '00+ 3Ls. The missing IAC is not a big deal. You can reuse your 2.5L dipstick when you move the oil pan and pickup tube over. The dipstick tube pulls out and it held in place by 1 bolt. They left the PS pump, that's unusual. Be careful with the chains or they might crack the plastic cam covers and UIM! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 (edited) Looks OK to me. You should have seen how my first 3L arrived. Looked like they rolled it off the dock!!! You won't need the crushed coolant lines. No IMRC on '00+ 3Ls. The missing IAC is not a big deal. You can reuse your 2.5L dipstick when you move the oil pan and pickup tube over. The dipstick tube pulls out and it held in place by 1 bolt. They left the PS pump, that's unusual. Be careful with the chains or they might crack the plastic cam covers and UIM! yeah, I was worried about the chans against the plastic parts too, but I couldn't find a lift point for the life of me and we had to get it out of the Xploder. and I knew i figured I could just swap in the 2.5 dip stick. will I have to push the old stick out of the 3l tube with a hanger or will the 2.5 tube bolt up? so I carry over the coolent lines from the 2.5? yeah sucks they left the power steering pump and took my IAC. you can have the power steering pump if you want, I know you have a bunch of taurus'. it also has the front exhaust manifold left on it and the rear roll restrictor bracket. looks like some kind of mounting plate on the front. I was looking at the taurus fuel rail today and really wondering why it couldn't just be flipped around. besides that I'd have to run a longer fuel line to it because the coupling point would be aimed forward. the injectors seem to be alligned symetrically off set from eyeballs glance. and why does the escape fuel rail have an FPR in the rail while the 'tour has it in line? would the 'tour inline FPR not supply the correct pressure? and why doesn't the taurus rail have a shrader valve? and I assume that modual on the taurus rail is just something to do with the returnless injection? sorry for turning that into an epic reply thanks [edit] also just took a look at the IAC on the contour engine and it looks like it's the same mounting surface shape, will it work? would it clear the hood? thanks Edited June 25, 2008 by KAOS_2.5M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 turned around, the Taurus fuel rail input is facing the wrong direction. Dunno why they didn't put a bleed valve on it. The sensor is for returnless and pressure monitor. The Escape rail faces the correct direction, so no worries about extending fuel lines or interference with other parts. The later 3L IAC is different. I suppose a 2.5L IAC could work, but I've never tried it. The early (and 2.5L) IACs have a round hole, same mounting though. The later ones have the larger holes that matches the UIM. BTW - that pulley extension on the crank has reversed threads. There is actually a special tool to remove the extension (a super deep socket). It may take some heat to get it loose, and an open end wrench may want to slip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 turned around, the Taurus fuel rail input is facing the wrong direction. Dunno why they didn't put a bleed valve on it. The sensor is for returnless and pressure monitor. The Escape rail faces the correct direction, so no worries about extending fuel lines or interference with other parts. but what about the FPR in my fuel line in the tour? does it not have an effect with two FPRs before the rail? or do I have to delete the 'tour one to use the 02 escape rail? The later 3L IAC is different. I suppose a 2.5L IAC could work, but I've never tried it. The early (and 2.5L) IACs have a round hole, same mounting though. The later ones have the larger holes that matches the UIM. if you were me would you give it a try or not? I just looked up what the bottom of the early three liter IAC looks like and it's just two small holes too, so I'm guessing mine would work. they want like 80 for an 00+ IAC on ebay, if mine doesn't work I think I'll be cussing the engine recycler. BTW - that pulley extension on the crank has reversed threads. There is actually a special tool to remove the extension (a super deep socket). It may take some heat to get it loose, and an open end wrench may want to slip. thanks for the heads up. if I'm not using the little jack pully on the crank is there any reason I can't get on it with a pipe wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 you can destroy the jack pulley. You won't use it or the harmonic balancer. Both need to be removed to remove the front cover. The inline FPR you are reffering to is dampner, not a regulator. It's there to soften fuel pressure spikes. Try the 2.5L IAC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 25, 2008 Share Posted June 25, 2008 you can destroy the jack pulley. You won't use it or the harmonic balancer. Both need to be removed to remove the front cover. The inline FPR you are reffering to is dampner, not a regulator. It's there to soften fuel pressure spikes. Try the 2.5L IAC. cool, sounds good. still confused on were the 2.5's FPR is though, since the inline isn't it. oh well, doesn't matter. thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 so as I was starting out prepping the 2.5 to come out, I finally found the FPR in there, haha. few esoteric questions, I noticed my throttle actuating system on the 'tour is different than the one shown in the ford cd. the one in the ford cd uses a barrel connector and a plastic disk like the 3l TB does, but mine just has two pins on a steel plate. looks like I might have some problems getting my cables to work with the plastic wheel on the 3.0 TB, I'm sure this has come up before, but I havent looked yet. also slightly confused as to which hose exactly is the EVAP/PCV line they are talking about around the TB and EGR valve. is it the thin plastic hose that looks like wire loom? the pictures in the ford cd suck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 most start out with SVTs and swap in 3Ls. The throttle cable for the SVT is different. Many Cougar owners purchase the SVT throttle cable. I have a similar problem with my '97, which uses a ball and socket connector instead of the barrel type. The PCV/EVAP line is on the UIM just under the TB opening. The PCV is on a fat hose, sitting vertically, with a T that connects the EVAP line, the one in wire loom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 most start out with SVTs and swap in 3Ls. The throttle cable for the SVT is different. Many Cougar owners purchase the SVT throttle cable. I have a similar problem with my '97, which uses a ball and socket connector instead of the barrel type. The PCV/EVAP line is on the UIM just under the TB opening. The PCV is on a fat hose, sitting vertically, with a T that connects the EVAP line, the one in wire loom. cool, thanks man so I guess it looks like I'm going to need a different throttle cable to get this to work? think I'll have any luck over on NECO with my throttle issues? (clever, jack-leg, low budget answere?) I think it blows that the spring/actuater portion of the TB's are "stamped" on. if they had used a threaded shaft and nut or something I would only have to switch over all my 2.5 parts to the 3.0 TB. is there a place I should look on the ford CD for throttle cable removal? thanks PS: also... a link to some pics of 3L's with SVT intakes would rock too. it's starting to look like some fairly custom shiz may be required to use my intake on the 3L, and I hate hot-air (short ram) intakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTDEMON Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 Good luck,keep us posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 heres that EVAP line that looks like wire loom. it's not a hose wrapped in wire loom, the hose is actually made from the same type stuff as wire loom. Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-26 and I found this major ground not hooked up to anything, not sure if I did this doing the tranny, or if it's been that way since I got the car Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-26 I have no idea were that ground goes, so I can't lable it untill I find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 26, 2008 Share Posted June 26, 2008 ground bolts to the transmission using one of the trans to engine bellhousing bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 ground bolts to the transmission using one of the trans to engine bellhousing bolts. ahh, I guess I did that then, well.... more acurately, my brother in law did that, hehe. I needed help lifting the trans onto the engine in situ, and since he was over, he decided to bolt it up for me, and he has no idea about the car. guess I should have remembered that, but it's not in the haynes manual, oh well, surprisingly it didn't effect anything really. so after two half-arsed days, I'm through the easy half of the ford cd pull procedure. need to get in gear and get the hard half done fast. any comments on steps that can be cut if I'm leaving the radiator? will I still have to disconnect anything from the fans, like connectors? or are they on the body side of the harness? thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 take out the fans and radiator, drop them out the bottom. Secure the a/c condensor to the header panel. You take out two bolts that hold the condensor to the bottom of the radiator, then push the condensor up, out of two slots on the radiator. Once it's free, tie it to the header panel with wire or zip ties. Leave the wiring attached to the fan shroud. There are a couple connections and a ground to be disconnected, but the subharness for the fans can stay on the shroud. When you remove the compressor from the engine, roll it forward, over the subframe. It should rest there by itself, and out of the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 take out the fans and radiator, drop them out the bottom. Secure the a/c condensor to the header panel. You take out two bolts that hold the condensor to the bottom of the radiator, then push the condensor up, out of two slots on the radiator. Once it's free, tie it to the header panel with wire or zip ties. Leave the wiring attached to the fan shroud. There are a couple connections and a ground to be disconnected, but the subharness for the fans can stay on the shroud. When you remove the compressor from the engine, roll it forward, over the subframe. It should rest there by itself, and out of the way. alright, thanks. I had just read someplace that the radiator didn't really need to come out, but if you think thats a bad idea I'll just drop it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 i did it the first time without removing the rad, but each time since, I've dropped it. You'll get more wiggle room when you pull the drivetrain and less likely to snag something or crunch the fans. You can also clean and straighten the fins while it's out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 i did it the first time without removing the rad, but each time since, I've dropped it. You'll get more wiggle room when you pull the drivetrain and less likely to snag something or crunch the fans. You can also clean and straighten the fins while it's out. yeah, after looking more closely from the bottom I decided it makes more since to pull it. besides, now i can spray it all pretty with flat black. real simple question here, how the heck do those crazy vacuum couplings on the 2.5 UIM come out? I'm tempted to just cut the brake booster hose since it looks like it's supposed to go to the open nipple on the bottom side of the 3.0 uim right behind the TB. I can just slide some scrap hose out of my junk ranger over it and clamp it to make a coupler that will fit overe the intake nipple, sound good? on a side note, when I drained the MTX, I only got around a quart out of it so I must still be losing fluid from someplace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 they have a locking ring.... use a screw driver to push the ring down as you pull the tube up. If the ring pulls up with the tube, it clamps the tube. Some WD40 or equivalent sprayed around the base of the tube may help it come out easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 thanks, I'll knock that out tomarrow, all I seem to have left is the compressor and the axels/ball joins before I can chain it up and pull the engine mounts from the body. one thing though, with the ball joints loose and the wheels off, what does the ford CD mean by "lower the vehicle"? are they assuming I'm on a shop lift? should I put something the height of the tire under the subframe and let it down onto that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTDEMON Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 I just got my new engine and trans.Thanks QwicSVT you are the man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 29, 2008 Share Posted June 29, 2008 (edited) so i got the engine out of the 'tour yesterday. didn't post pics till now because I'm lazy. taking today off because I had to pull a auto trans for a 318 today, and I'm slated to do a few things to a 98 duratec taurus later today. so on with the pics: plastic cigar tubes make perfect fuel line tools! Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 a squirel descided to chew on one of my plug wires Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 quick tip for any body who wants to break lug nuts with the wheels off the gound, stick a long thin screw through the caliper into the break disk vents. also works for taking hub nuts loose Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 possible culprit of my positive camber, the stuts aren't fully home in the knuckles Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 engine out pre detail engine bay, not pretty Shot with Canon PowerShot SD400 at 2008-06-29 so thats it till monday. still need to get a fuel rail and an svt throttle cable, plus some gaskets and fluids. later guys Edited June 29, 2008 by KAOS_2.5M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 on the camber issue, I would lean more towards the LCA's being worn out. The struts have a locating tab on the back that the pinch bolt passes through. They either fit the knuckle or they don't... they never fully seat on the knuckle. Fuggin' squirrel got in my engine bay too.... left a bunch of pecan shells all over the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KAOS_2.5M Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 on the camber issue, I would lean more towards the LCA's being worn out. The struts have a locating tab on the back that the pinch bolt passes through. They either fit the knuckle or they don't... they never fully seat on the knuckle. Fuggin' squirrel got in my engine bay too.... left a bunch of pecan shells all over the engine. yeah I would have never thought to worrie about squirels eating my engine, its crazy. on the camber, I thought trashed LCA's caused negative camber, I've got about a degree of positive camber, it's definately not right. I'm just fixing it with the koni springs, a little positive camber will equal out with the 2 degrees negative I get from the 1.5" drop and land me right about perfect for a fast DD. I do plan on eventually replacing the LCA's too, but I'd like to put in some with poly bushes, and so far I haven't figured out how to do that. anyways, I've been kinda staring at both engines for a while now after getting them out and I'm not sure were I should start. is there an established order for the swap, or is it just do whatever? I would really love if Mr. jenkins would answere my e-mails, rather not pay full price for gaskets and such. I'll post more pictures tonight after I start tearing the 2.5 down. later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now