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3.0 Duratec FWD to RWD conversion...


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What I planned on doing (which I have now on hold due to time and finances): Wait for the the 11' Mustang to come out and you can have yourself a 300BHP V6 with a 6 speed that bolts up from the factory. No need to worry about adaptor plates, clutch/flywheel, etc...Keep it factory. When things break they can be easily and cheaply replaced plus you have the Mustang aftermarket for performance parts.

 

On the rear, I'd advise using the MS6 rear since the suspension geometry, etc.. is all set-up. Diff and axles can be upgraded as needed.

 

I'd advise (from personal experience) doing it this way to save yourself major time in design and construction.

Edited by rac74
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What I planned on doing (which I have now on hold due to time and finances): Wait for the the 11' Mustang to come out and you can have yourself a 300BHP V6 with a 6 speed that bolts up from the factory. No need to worry about adaptor plates, clutch/flywheel, etc...Keep it factory. When things break they can be easily and cheaply replaced plus you have the Mustang aftermarket for performance parts. On the rear, I'd advise using the MS6 rear since the suspension geometry, etc.. is all set-up. Diff and axles can be upgraded as needed. I'd advise (from personal experience) doing it this way to save yourself major time in design and construction.
I was hoping to keep the same engine though. I know a few people used the T5 tranny before. I also believe our engine can take a lot of abuse and would like to be different. I'm was planning to use the MS6 rear. I also know it's won't be that hard to turn our eninge 90 degrees. We do have enough room. The only main concern is the MTX part of it. I just think that changing the engine and tranny will require a lot more work. <BR><BR>Would the MTX the Nobles use work for my application? Any one knows what they used? Edited by fullyarmed101
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I was hoping to keep the same engine though. I know a few people used the T5 tranny before. I also believe our engine can take a lot of abuse and would like to be different. I'm was planning to use the MS6 rear. I also know it's won't be that hard to turn our eninge 90 degrees. We do have enough room. The only main concern is the MTX part of it. I just think that changing the engine and tranny will require a lot more work.

 

If you want to do it this way then go with a good gearbox and get a T56. I'd get the ford bell housing and use the Cobra's clutch and then send your flywheel out (for the bolt pattern) to the same manufacturer (say Centerforce just as an example) along with the requisite dimensions and have them work up a flywheel for you. I did this initially but with the new 3.5L Duratec.

 

I had originally thought of using the Jag x-fer box like everyone else but its TQ capacity is low. If you want a transverse layout (AWD) I'd just go buy a MS6 since those units have taken increased TQ..

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If you want to do it this way then go with a good gearbox and get a T56. I'd get the ford bell housing and use the Cobra's clutch and then send your flywheel out (for the bolt pattern) to the same manufacturer (say Centerforce just as an example) along with the requisite dimensions and have them work up a flywheel for you. I did this initially but with the new 3.5L Duratec.

 

I had originally thought of using the Jag x-fer box like everyone else but its TQ capacity is low. If you want a transverse layout (AWD) I'd just go buy a MS6 since those units have taken increased TQ..

 

 

I will take that into consideration. I want to do RWD. Kind of a show car and not for the streets. Right now it's going to be a project for my son and i to do. If I may ask about how much did it cost you to to that for the 3.5L?

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I will take that into consideration. I want to do RWD. Kind of a show car and not for the streets. Right now it's going to be a project for my son and i to do. If I may ask about how much did it cost you to to that for the 3.5L?

 

I got mine for $800 through car-part.

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Great update...

 

I spoke with David Godfrey. He also has a lot of information out there on cutom pistons and rods.

http://www.key-ideas...2402Update.html

 

http://www.astroperf...01c10010b9f09fb

$2200 for a new tranny...

 

$376 for a new Cobra R Bellhousing

Clutch is unknown but once I get the cost for it I will let you guys know.

 

Right now all the prices are new but I will shop around for used or parts and the yard to see what I can get them for.

 

So it looks like the Tranny setup will be about $6000 - $7000 all brand new... Might be able to bring it down to $4000-$5000 with used parts, for the flywheel you can't do much about that. Hopefully with the other contact the price will go down and people intrested in it.

 

Other forums that I posted on:

http://www.6crew.com...ead.php?t=15794

http://forum.mazda6c...conversion.html

http://www.contour.o...ion...&p=858979

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Lincoln LS had a 3.0L with a 5-speed manual RWD model.....as no adapter plates needed....straight bolt in...........hard to find .......

 

 

The getrag 221 tranny which sucks... If you try to put power to it, you will damage the tranny... The jaguar s-type also had it. They both had it from 2000-20003.

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BELLHOUSING:

 

I attached the pitures of the adapter plate with Bell housing that will work with the T-5. The adapter plate will also work with the TKO but you need the Cobra R type bell housing.

 

David Godfrey "The bell housing in the picture is 86-93 5.0 Mustang. The bell housing was changed in 94 because ford went to a Tremec T45 trans. To run a TKO600 5 speed with a .8 5th gear you will need a Cobra R bell housing from Summit racing or such. Last time I bought one the cost was $189. This bell housing has the correct bolt pattern for the Tremec 600. If you want to use a Tremec with a T5 1.062 x 10 spline clutch you can use a standard T5 bell housing modified as shown in the picture. The drop in Tremec 600 has a nasty .62 5th gear so it's no good."

 

CLUTCH:

David Godfreey said "It uses a Ford 2.3 turbo clutch. I have a new spare alloy pressure plate and disc assembly I can sell."

 

"The clutch disc you see was part of the clutch CF built for me and Rick Byrnes. The assembly is rated for 500 ft lbs torque which is way more than most motors will put out. Everything about the clutch is custom. KC at Center Force has been supplying Rick with clutches for his LSR cars but never was comfortable with a forged steel pressure plate as what's used on an OEM clutch cover. The billet aluminum pressure plate is much better for high RPM. I made the aluminum pressure plate, cent it to KC who finish machined the spring pivots to provide the proper setup clamp load. It also has stronger anti-rotation strap anchors. There is a steel heat shield riveted to the pressure plate that can be resurfaced or replaced. The clutch assy is noticeably lighter than anyone's 2.3T pressure plate. The disc has a sprung hub to lessen shock to the trans. The clutch is the real deal and the best available for this fitment. I have a lot of historical detail about this clutch but you get the drift."

 

FLYWHEEL:

David Godfrey said "Scope this out and see if there is interest on getting flywheels made and I'll get pricing for a couple different sources. The flywheel pictured is made from 4130 steel and weighs in at 12 lbs."

 

SETUP:

David Godfrey "The T5 in my car was custom built for Rick back when he worked for Ford and his land speed racing effort were sponsored by Borg Warner. Back then BW custom built a R5 for Rick that included a .9 5th gear. It's a neat transmission and I love the 4th to 5th gear change. I could sell you the transmission but I want to go through it first as it's getting a bit noisy, hence the move to the TKO 600. Need to sell it before it breaks. I could include a new DGRB spec Center Force lightweight clutch assy, MGW billet shifter, bell housing, and the T5 freshened up as a package deal for $2300."

 

What do you guys think about this? Sounds good?

 

i also emailed the they have an upgraded drive shaft for the Mazdaspeed 6 and asked them if they can do a custom setup and about what is the ball park figure of the cost.

 

DRIVE SHAFT & REAR DIFF:

ok.. i got replies back from driveshaftshop

 

Frank said:

"im sure we can make something, im not sure of the flange size on the back of the the Mazda as we only make rear axles for the car. i would figure it to be a 2 piece shaft and to be able to handle 1000hp an estimate would be about 1100.00 to make a 2 piece. this being said i would say almost for sure the rear diff would not be able to handle the power and you may want to think about a different rear for the car as well....."

 

Then I asked him what he would recommend for the the rear diff and he said

" if you get something in there i can make the axles and shaft work, we dont fabricate so i can only suggest maybe a ford 8.8 diff and we could go from there"

 

So of course I looked up ford 8.8 diff and i found this... AWESOME...

Nathan's LS1 Miata

 

Best to use for the future power upgrade is the 31-spline 8.8"

Ford 8.8 Ring Gear & Pinion Sets; Differential Parts & Application Information - Drivetrain.com

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On the 8.8" rear, try SVTperformance forums or any other mustang related and look at picking up a 2003-2004 Cobra IRS. It has the aluminum housing (the only one that I'm aware of off the top of my head but I haven't looked into it in a while). You might ask DG where he sourced his as I remember he had used one with an aluminum housing. The most abundant are the cast iron units in T-birds.

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On the 8.8" rear, try SVTperformance forums or any other mustang related and look at picking up a 2003-2004 Cobra IRS. It has the aluminum housing (the only one that I'm aware of off the top of my head but I haven't looked into it in a while). You might ask DG where he sourced his as I remember he had used one with an aluminum housing. The most abundant are the cast iron units in T-birds.

 

 

Thanks for the information.. I'm going to have to look that up...

 

HELP!!<BR itxtvisited="1">Frank said "being it has not been done its hard for me to determine how to proceed, you see the outer c.v. will need the be larger in diameter. we can take the hub on the car a broach them but there will be a limit as to how we can go. if there is not enough material you may have to make a spindle to hold the bigger hub. a normal cost would be about 1800 to 2000"<BR itxtvisited="1"><BR itxtvisited="1">Does anyone have any infromation that might be able to help with this?

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