MyContourSucksBad54 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hello everybody, My fiance's contour (GL, 2.0DOHC) is driving me nuts! When we bought it with 70k, the temp gauge sat straight up and down. she had no heat, so naturally after a few months, i replaced the thermostat and flushed the heater core to try and fix it. Then everything went downhill. after that, The heater would get hot while driving, but cold while idling. AND NOW, it overheats as well. So, i replaced the water pump (old one seemed fine), 2 leaking tubes, flushed the radiator, and a second thermostat that i tested in boiling water, and still overheating . Now though i didnt hear the fans low temp and high temp go off, i live in wisconsin (FML) and did the test drive in 5 degree weather at 55mph, so the fan should not have come into effect anyways. I never let the engine get to the red mark, but when on the freeway it gets to the "L" in NORMAL. Again, this is 55+mph in 5 degree weather after about 15 minutes. Its not loosing coolant at all, and the exhaust doesnt smell sweet, and the oil doesnt seem to have water in it (i just took a short glance). It steams and feels really hot too. I've been turning a wrench since I was 4 years old and am in Automotive Engineering school, so I dont think I'm an idiot. Please, If u have any idea to solve this mystery, please let me know. Thank you everyone! P.S. My profile name was made after spending 24+ hours on this car and having the same problem i started with. I am a Ford finatic, and I wouldnt have let her buy it if it wasn't a Ford, and the car was really solid before i screwed it up. Drives Straighter than a nail on the highway, and pretty quick too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 What condition was the coolant in? Brown and muddy or green and clean? A blockage in the radiator from debris can cause those types of issues. You would need to check the temperatures at the radiator upper and lower hose to see if the coolant is getting through and if the temp are within 20 degrees of eachother. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyContourSucksBad54 Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 ahhh alright. it was really brown and muddy when i drained it out. Ill check that out tonight and see whats going on. If it is all clogged, how would i clean it out? or do i have to replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Brown and muddy means you have something nasty going on. You can try to flush the system with radiator cleaner and see if you get alot of the muck out, if not you will need to replace the radiator and definately flush the heater core. -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyContourSucksBad54 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 wonderful, ill try to get at it this weekend. I hope i can get this thing running well soon. thanks for the advise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delores Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 With the cap off and the engine running - does a blip of the throttle show fluid moving? Could a hose be collapsing? What are the temps felt at the top hose at the radiator versus bottom hose (exit)? Much cooler or almost the same? Does turning the heater on full blast cause the temps to drop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joker813 Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 also remember that they have to be burpt to let all air out its weird but ture Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DriveOn Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 What does it tell us when the top hose is much hotter than the bottom hose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joker813 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 that the water is not moving through the engine its stuck in one area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DriveOn Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thanks J.. I do have that problem with my wife's 2001 Escape 3.0L; was dripping some coolant past the ECT o-ring so replaced that, the water pump weep hole would gush a cup of water at times so replaced that and the thermostat, and now I'm guessing the radiator isn't keeping up. 202k miles seems to be the tipping point for this cars cooling system. I'll investigate that and take further Escape questions to a different forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joker813 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Not sure but u might have t ge burp the system for air pocket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgandee Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 Adding some comments on this at a late date, but I fixed my friends 96 contour that was overheating. I chased this for awhile. I replaced the thermostat, and that did not fix it. I took the old thermastat and pulled the coil spring loose, installed it to let the water flow freely, and check the radiator temperature. Guess what, it still over heated. I thought, maybe there is a plug, i flushed the radiator, but flow was really good. I finally took off water pump and checked impeller, but is was fine. After putting the opened thermostat back on, and seeing that after it starts to warm up, the water flows over the resivor, i concluded it was the head gasket. The leak appears when the car warms up, and it pushes exhaust vapor into water side of the cylynders, which pushes out the cooling water. I replaced the head gasket, and problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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