johnz Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Hi guys a newbie Ford owner with a charging question....My son has a 99 Contour with the V6 2.5. I replaced the alternator in February. All seemed well...Now he has the battery light on, wont keep a charge, so I think it is the alternator again...I bought the cheapie from Autozone...I took it out had it tested and it tested good, at their store... The 175a fuse is good the wiring appears to be good...does the car's computer control charging? anything else to look for? and are those store bench checks always correct??It passed twice on theor machine.... does it hurt to remove the neg cable when running to check the charge? I did this on my older cars and trucks and was a sure fire way to tell if the alternator was putting out or not... Thanks all John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imadrid Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 did you check the fuse in the fuse box that controls the alternator? And a big thing to check is make sure that the single wire connector is plugged in and fully seated. If it is not plugged in well it will act as is the alternator is dead because it is not completing the circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnz Posted April 28, 2013 Author Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) well......some more research..did not know about fuse F5 in fuse box under hood...after more reading found the info about F5, controls the regulator on the alternator, found that to be blown, so now I will put the alternator back in tonight and hope to report all is well...Thanks guys! John Edited April 28, 2013 by johnz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnz Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 bad knews...the fuse blows at rpms above 3000. Volts remain steady at 14.3ish no spike not even when fuse blows. But only after 2 minutes above 3000 rpm ...... Voltage regulator on alternator???? shook the harness down for the fog lights at idle just in case it was the fog lights making the fool thing trip...It idles fine as rpms increase volts remain constant..I'd like to hear back from anyone before I snatch out this alternator again.... thanks John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Sounds like a monday alt to me...... sometimes they don't really change all the parts when rebuilding those cheapie one and it is strange that it blows above 3k. Sounds more like the regulator but it is part of the alt package, and I wouldn't trust the alt on its own merrits at this point. AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnz Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 ok when all else fails...I bought the book. it calls for the #5 fuse to be a 30 amp for the fog lights. a 15amp was in the socket (yep a used car for my son) so...put a 30 amp in and no blown fuse at 3000 plus rpms...hopefully that wasa the problem...why would the alternator be connected to the fog light fuse..was this the fix for some other problem from the factory??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 What fuel system do you have in it a return or returnless style? What book did you get that said that? AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnz Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 no idea what type of fuel system, but the book is the typical Auto Zone Haynes backyard service manual.... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Here's the difference one has a single line the other has two. That is the easiest way to determine if you have an early or late 99. I have one of each and want to caution you about bad info on these cars. There are some differences in many areas from one style of car to the other but just putting in a larger fuse is not usually one of them.... usually is the key word here. I can't think of another fuse that is just up sized depending upon the option. Both of my 99's have fog lights, but both of the under hood fuse boxes are very different also. So when you say something about a manual saying it is just a larger fuse that doesn't sound right and we here know there are many errors in those. IF it really is correct good, but if the book is wrong then you are just creating another problem. After all the car was working before then someting changed........ Above are the returnless style This is the return style fuel lines run below the trottle body, but are easy enough to see. Regards, AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnz Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 AF Thanks for the info and as it turns out it was the alternator...I called an old guy that lives and breathes generators and starters etc. He said the likely problem is that as the rpms increase the rotor expands and is grounding out, causing the short....so a new upgraded alternator and all is well. I put a 15 a fuse back in even though the book calls for a 30...The way I see it... it ran for a long time on a 15 amp...I assumed alot of things on this problem...the first, that the bench test was valid when I took the alternator in last Friday. then I just started assuming about fuses and mega fuses....shoulda went with what was out in front if anyone needs to know the best route to remove and replace a 2.5 engines alternator give me a shout....I will tell about two 3/8 drive swivels and why to tape them up! Thanks for the help AF John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aussie Ford Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 Your welcome John, As for the best way to replace that alternator there has been much discussion on it. to get that top bolt I usually go accross the back of the engine from the drivers wheel well....... I think there are several how to's on it. Regards, AF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Sorry to hear the problems, glad you got them fixed. Main lesson I think is to avoid the cheap chain store rebuilt alternators, they seem to be mostly junk. I was talking to a fellow who had worked for a large rebuilder, they were offered a rebuild contract in the mid '90s (so not a century ago) to rebuild alternators for a familiar chain at I think $15 apiece - parts and labor. No wonder they are junk and no wonder they will cheerfully replace it under warranty. I think the only options are name brand rebuilt like Motorcraft or better a reputable local rebuilder.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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