jovan915 Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 want to get better mpg what can I do to improve it and is there anything I can add to improve it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 In my opinion there is little you can do beyond the basic good practices of keeping the car well maintained, air in tires topped up, remove excess weight and maybe above all keep the revs low (below ~3K) and avoid WOT. By careful driving I can add about 1mpg (~5%) to my suburban commute. Avoid stop and go etc, 65 mph on highway much more economical than 45 mph w/ stoplights. All of the magic improvements are fake.My SVT gets ~21mpg in suburban commute when all is well. I think the SE is OK on regular, the SVT needs premium. I'm so cheap I often "custom blend" 50% 87 and 50% 93 to get ~90 octane which is cheaper (usually) and better than the pump 89. I think the SVT is perfectly happy at 90....?? Your SE (assuming Ford specs 87 on it?) won't benefit from anything higher than 87. I personally like to use Ford (and BMW etc) approved "Top Tier" gas brands to keep things clean. That's my $0.02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 I heard there is like a special gas tank u can add I for got what it was it runs on for like 50 mile something like then it uses your gas . also heard spark plugs help if u get the expensive ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I'm an engineer, a racer and work in the auto industry - and I really think that on most cars there is little you can practically do to improve gas mileage on most cars beyond good maintenance and careful use. If much fuel were going out the exhaust unburned with std plugs the catalyst would overheat etc - there just isn't any one thing crying out for easy improvement - if the car is in good shape. And of course many are not! If your car is not in tip top shape and you are not optimizing your driving habits you can probably pick up 10% plus which is significant if not dramatic. If your car has something wrong or you are revving the engine a lot maybe more. But I do believe that all the snake oil fixes are bogus.... You'd for sure see a significant improvement by changing the final drive ratio in the trans but that's a big job and would take forever to pay for itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 *Use only double plat M/craft spark plugs*Quality plug leads*Clean the MAF with CRC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner (good stuff!)*Run fully synth engine oils* 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 (edited) yah I use that oil it helps a lot. I plan on getting some bosh platinum ones would a better filter help as well the 50$ that u change and it can be washed .. yah my car is in good shape 70,000 miles Edited May 7, 2013 by jovan915 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 I'd listen to Terry (a fellow engineer so he has to be right!) re the sparkplugs, for some reason these engines apparently don't like the Bosch ones. I don't think the expensive filters will make any extra fuel economy, maybe a percent or two more power but at a risk of oiling up the very MAF that Terry is advising cleaning. But if you insist I'll give you a good deal on the K&N that I removed from my car for just that concern! It's sitting in a box on the shelf in my garage.... One thing you could do (I have not, due to wear concerns that I think Terry shares?) is switch to 5W-20 oil (ideally synthetic) that Ford now retroactively recommends, it is pound to help a tad. (btw I do run a K&N on my race car, for the extra tiny bit of power, but don't on road cars where wear and MAF oiling are bigger issues that 2-3bhp) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 NO BOSCH PLUGS!!!...These engines have a 'wasted spark' ign system...each bank does not spark to ground as conventional systems...which is why you need double plat..Ford develop,grade and make their own plugs so stick with M/craft double plats!!! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wasted_spark The coil pack has THREE coils that fire SIX plugs...each end of the coil fires a plug and one end is '+' ground,the other is '-' ground ....so direction of spark on one bank is GROUND STRAP on the plug to center electrode...metal can be 'moved' during spark and single plats will wear more on one bank...Ign Engineering 101 !!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 So the motor caft are recommend double platinum .. how much for the k&n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) Send me an email at rtusa1 at verizon.net. I'll have a look at it and make sure it's in the excellent condition that I think I remember, then I'll quote a price via email. I have a reoil kit so I'll wash and reoil before sending. I really don't think the K&N will give any economy gains but will IMO give a few HP. Al Seim Race Technology USA Edit - this is an SVT filter, ie the conical Mustang style one, I don't think it will fit a stock SE airbox?? Edited May 9, 2013 by 2000SVTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) terry im not sure what ur last message ment I just started learning about cars. my car is a ford contour se 2.5 let me know if it is compatible Edited May 9, 2013 by jovan915 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Sorry, my SVT K&N filter won't fit a stock SE, mine is round/cone shaped and yours is flat. The airboxes are completely different. I did not think of that when I first posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 its ok np Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxtuner Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) change the nut behind the wheel. I agree with all of what SVTC said. If you can afford it grab a scangauge II it's what really helped me. What I did: Upped PSI in my tires to 42PSI. watched my throttle inputs used the injector shutoff when ever possible. when coasting at a high enough rpm the injectors shut off while you coast. drove no faster than 52mph found that in my area this netted my the best gains. accelerating down hill and coasting uphill. using the pulse and glid. On one particular road trip I was able to achieve 32mpg highway with a stock svt. For more info jump over to Eccomodder.com that's all they do is mpgs. some way more extreme than others but it's good info and an interesting take on modifying cars. Edited May 12, 2013 by zxtuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdvil Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Good opening to ask about the oil - I've heard ford engines are as picky about that as they are of spark plugs. Hydraulic lifters fail or bearings seize when you use something other than exactly recommended spec. This true or rumour, and what kind of oils are safe for mpg-oriented street and what are safe for track? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ford EDIS "waste-spark" systems do not work well with gimmick spark plugs, like Bosch +4 or E3. Double platinum only (iridium works too). Motorcraft, Autolite, and NGK work best. Never really heard anything about the engines being picky on the oil. I only use full synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jovan915 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 I just use the recommended one and buy it in the bottles not at oil change places I heard there oil is cheap and the ones u buy in the bottle are better quality I plan on getting the motor craft double . what do you mean the nut behind the wheel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxtuner Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) What I meant by that is changing how you drive. "nut" = driver/driving styles and habits. Change how you drive your inputs and you can achive better mpg with changing a single part. Now don't get me wrong a car with up to spec maintainence with get better mpg than one that's not. Visit ecomodder.com that is all they do is get better mpg out whatever they drive, for most of them its a return on investment type mentality. Edited May 16, 2013 by zxtuner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000SVTC Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) Regarding oil - when our cars were made, Ford recommended 5W-30, they have since switched to recommending 5W-20 and I THINK made that recommendation retroactive (to some point). Though I did find a note re the 2005 3.0 saying that bearing clearances were tightened. 5W-20 being thinner when hot will let the engine spin a bit more freely and up mpg some small amount. I would only consider doing this on a Contour that was lightly driven, I do NOT use 5W-20 in my SVT. In fact I use 5W-30 in my wife's 2005 Freestyle which does recommend 5W-20 - I'd rather have lower engine wear than the last tenth or two of a mpg.... If I was going to run 5W-20 I'd want full or at least semi synthetic. Edited May 16, 2013 by 2000SVTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 ....In fact I use 5W-30 in my wife's 2005 Freestyle which does recommend 5W-20 - I'd rather have lower engine wear than the last tenth or two of a mpg.... If I was going to run 5W-20 I'd want full or at least semi synthetic..... Have to question that one!!..Oil fiim strength has nothing to do with viscosity and wear.In fact a thinker oil flows slower at cold start ,= more engine wear!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darcy Bloomer Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Kleenflo Injector Kleen Part #695 went from 17-18mpg to a solid 27-28mpg with no change in driving habbits!, I must have had a plogged injector or something? For under $5 it worth a shot. Had tried several other brands of fuel injector cleaners with minimal results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devin Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 I have used AMSOIL 5W-20 in my Contour for the past year now. It is the 2.0l but I have had no problems with it at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocco De Luca Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I took out the air baffle in the air filter box and that seems to have improved mpg on my 2.5. The more direct airflow seems to have given me about 1 mpg. I also cut out the downstream cat under the car and gained 1-2 more mpg however, chopping the downstream cat (non California emissions) has seemingly robbed a couple horses in exchange for the economic factor which was expected with reduced back pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocco De Luca Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I forgot to mention, using Bosch +4 & +2. Plugs is a waste. First couple tanks I saw astounding economy 340 mpt highway. However, after 2-3 tanks it started to drop. After 10k miles, I had the worst economy ever. I tried it with the Bosch 4s first, then the 2s. Same result. I've used autolites and delcos as well. The delcos lasted about 30k before economy started to plunge. The autolites, about 25k. Motorcraft double platinums are definitely the plug you want to use in your duratecs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcsd001 Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) I'm too old ( I prefer "wise" ) to do anything "tricky" to a perfectly < cough> good car in order to gain an ounce of HP or Gas Mileage. Here's what I DID do when I purchased my ( probably abused ) '99 CSVT ( built in August, '99 ) with 209,000 miles: NOTE - Was told it was stock/original w/only a K&N oval filter w/o box. * Fixed problems relating to all the Check Engine Lights. - DPFE, TPS, EGR ( caused by clogged channel behind throttle body ) * Flushed cooling system * Replaced thermostat ( Stant 180 ), O-ring and hoses * Replaced PCV and hoses * Replaced "questionable" vacuum lines * New Autolite double plat plugs ( .054 gap ) and wires * Replaced fuel filter ( badly clogged ) w/Motorcraft original equipment * Oil and Filter change: 6.5 qts. Valvoline Syntech 5w-20. Fram Ultra Guard filter. * Fixed secondary intake problem ( needed those little bushings on rod ) * Cleaned IAC and Throttle Body + new gaskets * Seafoamed through Intake * Seafoam in gas tank * Use ONLY Sunoco 93 octane * New tires inflated to 32-34 lbs. * 4-wheel alignment I haven't driven this car like a madman, but I haven't babied it, either. I initially drove only in city/rural traffic: * FIRST FILLUP - City and Rural only. 1-10 miles per trip: 21 MPG * Took her on her first road trip - Avg 65 MPH: 31.4 MPG * Mixed City/Highway was next: 25.6 MPG * Second road trip - Avg 70 MPH: 30.4 MPG Though I have only put a little over 2,000 miles on her, she has been beating the snot out of EPA Advertised Estimates! As the song goes: GOD BLESS THE SVT! -Michael Edited April 30, 2014 by mcsd001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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