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900Contour

lifted Contour

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Crazy I may be, but I love my Contour but also tired

of falling into and climbing up out of it.

I have a neuro muscular disease and I'm getting

weaker as time passes. No money to buy a Ford Escape,

so can I suspension lift this a couple inches?

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I found an ad for 2005 Escape for $1,300.

So maybe problem solved. I should be able to get a $1,000 for my Contour.

I'm replacing the brakes on it now.

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That is NOT the solution we all wanted to see ;-(

"Save the Clock Tower", Save the, errr Contour!!!

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Didn't get the escape. Keeping the Contour.

I've replaced rear brake cylinders and shoes.

I'm picking up front rotors, pads, and brake hoses in the morning.

Suppose to be 70 here tomorrow, so hopefully I can get all that done.

Future plans are modifying low beam headlamps to something that actually puts light on the road.

High beams are awesome, low beams suck. The Toyota 55W projector fog lamps I put in the bumper are putting 90% of useable light on the road for low beams.

 

I have a pair of HID projector head lamps out of an 08 Lexus suv.

Love to know wiring on how to make them turn with steering, but the motors wouldn't fit in a Contour composite anyway. So seeing if just the projectors can mount to the low beam reflectors is the next bit of fun. There 35w ds2 burners & ballast. Wish they were the 55w ones, unless that would melt the Contour capsules?

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Front brake rotors & pads replaced today. Didn't replace the brake caliper hoses because parts store ordered the rear hoses, not the fronts. Keeping the rear hoses and will reorder fronts and replace all four later. Now that front brakes are done, it no longer vibrates with braking, BUT still vibrates bad any speed over 65. Lower ball joint boots were ripped and full of road grime. Guess I will start throwing parts at the front end now. Checking tires for broken belts first.

Very nice to have smooth braking first time since I've owned her.

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Anyone see a power seat in a junk yard, I could really use just the power base with plastic side trim containing the switch.

Wanted to check before I start stacking fender washer under the mounting feet of mine, to raise it up.

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Where did you get the Toyota fog lights, do you know what model they are from, do you know the part number by chance? Thanks. I've been wanting to get some fog lights but the stock ones are expensive and I'm guessing they aren't all that bright.

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I really wish i knew what model they came off of. I had a friend that use to work for North American Lighting and he gave them to me. They make lights for Toyota and Honda. They are as bright and cover as much as standard low beam headlight. I used spacers on caged bolts to mount them and i need to aim them up more. It's a pain to do, I take bumper cover off.

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I really wish i knew what model they came off of. I had a friend that use to work for North American Lighting and he gave them to me. They make lights for Toyota and Honda. They are as bright and cover as much as standard low beam headlight. I used spacers on caged bolts to mount them and i need to aim them up more. It's a pain to do, I take bumper cover off.

That's alright. Pardon my ignorance but what are caged bolts and are they a specific type of spacer?

 

Thanks for the picks they definitely make a difference. Are the Silverstars the best low beams for these cars? And do they still look that good even if the lenses are oxidized really bad?

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I meant to type caged nuts, not bolts. Sorry. The metal clips that are threaded so you don't need a wrench on the nut to tighten.

I'm not a fan of the silverstars, but I tried them for lack another option.

Silverstars and Silverstar Ultras are more in the blue color spectrum which doesn't return back to your eyes as well as pure white or amber color does.

They seem good until you drive in rain on newly black asphalt road.

 

If the lenses are hazed, clearing those is the most important first step.

The 3M headlight restoration kit works really good.

I've been using auto body sandpaper wet sanding starting at 600 grit and working up to 2000 grit, then rubbing compound.

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I wondered if the silverstars were blue. I'm not a fan of driving towards them, I've never been behind them but I know I'm not a fan of blue tint LED flashlights.

 

I like the auto body sandpaper method as I already have 1000 grit. What type and brand of rubbing compound do you use?

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Yes I'm still open to raising it.

The rear independent suspension looks to be one assembly bolted to the body, so maybe it could be lowered from the body with longer bolts, fabricated spacers, longer trailing arms and guessing taller struts??

If the front K member was lowered from the body, it would keep normal steering and suspension movement, but can I go 2 or 3 inches without altering hoses and intermediate steering shaft?

 

There is a first gen Escape in local junk yard. Wonder if any parts could transfer?

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Last week on a warm day, I finally pulled the stereo and moved the dash lighting wire in the adapter to the correct position. So I'm not blinded at night anymore. Also now the stereo is seeing a dash lights signal, I've programed the display to be white daytime and green at night.

 

The Montego 3rd brake light attaches with screws through the carpet, so I pulled rear seat to pull package tray carpet. Discovered previous owner let an idiot cut the sheet metal in 4 directions to peel back, I'm guessing to pull sending unit.

 

On the up side I'm hoping this means my fuel pump has been changed.

The idiot just laid piece of scrape carpet over the destroyed floor.

My quick fix was to buy roll of Peel N Seal from Lowes roofing department and break out the heat gun.

All of the damage has been sealed in foil backed asphalt tar. No chance of exhaust fumes coming in that way.

 

Front passenger door has been making noise with low frequency stereo. With left over Peel N Seal, I pulled the panel, speaker, interior door handle. Covered most of the door but didn't get ocd over it. Found couple loose sections where door panel is heat bonded together. Couple spots I used heat gun and tighten the joint. I also covered some of the door panel joints with the Peel N Seal.

 

Everything back together, stereo test and now with no vibration coming from that door, I discover the back doors are low frequency vibrating/buzzing. Lol. So another warm day and another roll of Peel N Seal from Lowes and I'll do the same to the other 3 doors. It was 65 degree high here today but forecasting 20's next week. I really need a garage.

 

I also cleaned contacts on front door pin switches today. Seems to have done the trick. Maybe I wont leave my headlights on again.

 

Of course 30 minutes before sunset I remember this would have been a good day to remove front bumper cover and aim my fog lights up much more. Oh well. Next warm day.

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My six month insurance premium for the Contour and our Freestar comes due in March.

Money is very tight and it doesn't seem I can afford both vehicles since I may stop driving soon.

I'm 43 and have dealt with a neuromuscular disease for 20 years now. My body is telling me that I'm entering the next stage.

 

If anyone is interested in a good clean 99 Contour LS, 4cyl, automatic.

White outside. Gray cloth. Inside looks like a new car.

A/C works great. Brakes all new. Has Sony 55w x 4 stereo, Kenwood speakers. Bluetooth hands free voice and text with smartphone. Alternator replaced 2 years ago. Plugs, wires, and coil pack replaced last summer. I change oil and filter every 3,500 miles. 25% window tint all 4 doors, back glass, and top of windshield.

I think it has around 155k miles. I'll have to go look again.

 

How much should I ask for it?

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Sorry I can't help with an idea for pricing, but it looks very pretty!   So clean looking, and I like the contrast of white with the tinted windows.  Sorry you have to sell it, but I hope it stays in the forum and you get a good price.

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I bought my last two Contours from Chicago; I just hopped the train.  They were a bit rusty and would go for about $1500 then (ten and seven years ago, respectively).  Just look at the "problem" areas such as bolts on the subframe.  I'd reckon that a nice one without rust in as good condition as you say from '99 could still get an $1800 offer pretty quick.  Rusty conditions would probably deduct at least $500, having fixed the rust on one of them.  Check out autotrader.com , as they seem to have more selection than e-bay motors.

 

My red 4-banger automatic was on the Ford lift recently, and it was rust-free.  I really hope my engine re-wiring project goes well, or I may be in the market.  I bought my first Chicago Contour to drive as I did the recall wiring on the red 4-cylinder.  Now the flaking wiring problem has spread to the main harness.  At least I'm certain the Contour wiring problem was fixed by '99.

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I'm 6 hours south of Chicago. It's very rust free.

 

Its been a local car, always been in West Kentucky. I can try to get pictures of underneath.

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I forgot to mention the curling dash issue.  I can't really tell from the photos, but it looks like there may be some to be dealt with.  I pulled the dash to fix my girlfriend's 2000 Contour, and it was not fun.  Also not helpful was improvising all the parts since the repair kits sold out years ago.  I think someone took the big chunk of plastic that covered the dash from a '95-'97 and was able to cover up theirs.  I'd probably try that next time.

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