Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Robsvtcon98

Blacked out contour 98 SVT needs a rebuild or engine? Where do I start?

Recommended Posts

I wanted to know if anyone has or knows where to buy a engine (preferably a 3.0L) or if it would be a better idea to rebuild..At this time I don't have a car that runs so I wanted to start this project soon.. I just got my 98 contour svt back about 2 weeks ago from someone that I trusted to hold on to it before I went to prison for stupid things I was into as a young adult.. He signed it into his name before I got out so I couldn't get it back thru talking an making things right over five years later an 40000 new miles he offered to sell it back for $700. Truthfully I was in the wrong as much as he was by taking it from me but I have it back finally.. But when I got it home the next day I realized it needs work. It has a rod knock an needs a new engine I really love this car being "stolen" from me than sold back It definitely made it's spot in my heart like a first girlfriend or high school sweetheart.. If anyone has resources or knows of a hole in the wall with contour engines or any info on rebuilds or engines it would be greatly appreciated.. From Wa state name is Rob an have a blacked out ford contour SVT 1998.. New to this site also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wanted to know if anyone has or knows where to buy a engine (preferably a 3.0L) or if it would be a better idea to rebuild..At this time I don't have a car that runs so I wanted to start this project soon.. I just got my 98 contour svt back about 2 weeks ago from someone that I trusted to hold on to it before I went to prison for stupid things I was into as a young adult.. He signed it into his name before I got out so I couldn't get it back thru talking an making things right over five years later an 40000 new miles he offered to sell it back for $700. Truthfully I was in the wrong as much as he was by taking it from me but I have it back finally.. But when I got it home the next day I realized it needs work. It has a rod knock an needs a new engine I really love this car being "stolen" from me than sold back It definitely made it's spot in my heart like a first girlfriend or high school sweetheart.. If anyone has resources or knows of a hole in the wall with contour engines or any info on rebuilds or engines it would be greatly appreciated.. From Wa state name is Rob an have a blacked out ford contour SVT 1998.. New to this site also

:welcomeani: 

 

Low mileage 01+ Taurus 3L $500 from LQK 

Upgraded Oil Pump Pickup Screen YL8Z-6622-BA ($28) 

Upgraded Oil Pan with Baffles 3M4Z-6675-BA ($109) 

SVT throttle body F7RZ-9E926-AA ($186) 

SVT bracket F8RZ-9677-AA ($48) 

SVT Throttle Cable XS8Z-9A758-CA ($42) 

01+ Mercury Cougar motor mount 1S7Z3A732AA $32.72 

Long Bolts: W704693S309 $5.22/EA. LIST 

Short Bolts: W704694S309 $3.53/EA. LIST 

Brazed/ modified fuel rail. About $100+ to have done if you are  not up to it 

Connecting Rod Bolts F3LY-6214-A need 12 ($23) 

Clevite 77 rod bearings #CB-1772P ($35 from Napa) 

Exhaust manifold gaskets(one time use) $6 each, need 2 

BCA part# 482041N Oil Seal, Front Timing Cover. $8 

2.5 Right Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-A $5 

2.5 Center Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-B $5 

2.5 Left Front Timing Cover Gasket F5RZ-6020-C $5 

2.5 Right Valve Cover Gasket F5RZ-6584-B $11 

2.5 Left Valve Cover Gasket F5RZ-6584-C $11 

2.5 Spark Plug Tube Seals ($2/ea., come in packs of 2)F5RZ-6C527-A 

When you have the 2.5 timing and valve covers off oil seal and gaskets need to be replaced. 

 

Tap for knock sensor is M12x1.5. I drill it out with a 3/8 bit first and then tap the hole. 

 

Swap over oil sensor and the 2 sensors on the head coolant cross over tube. Put a little RTV on these before reinstalling. 

 

There will also be points on the block the will need new RTV. You will see them when you pull the old covers off. Take a razor blade and clean these areas before fresh RTV. 

 

The vacuum can be done for free using the vac pieces from both engines. A piece of vac needs to be purchased to run from the brake booster to one of the UIM ports.                              

If you already have an SVT then swap over the cams, chains, guides, and tensioners. The having the SVT TB, bracket, cable already is also another bonus. 

 

The EGR tubes of both engines have to be cut and joined together. Either by brazing or by a 5/8 brass compression fitting.    

 

So about $900 if you have an SVT. If you donot have an SVT TB and find a used one then order the SVT bracket and cable ($90) and braze the SVT and Taurus TB bracket together. The plastic cam needs to be dremeled a bit as well. 

 

 

 

This group has the holy grail of info  :welcomeani: again 

 

Edited by SVTDEMON

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks that helped me a lot still few questions where would I buy that engine and yes it's a SVT from the factory so lots of svt on the car parts.. Cams are good still than I had someone try to say that you can't use them.. That info was for the 3l than I will have 900 saved in like a couple weeks I am so stooked about this build never have done a engine swap but my bro has done Hondas and jeeps so us together will figure it out just wosh I knew someone I into them as much as me closer to my house so we could walk thru stuff that I have a hard time with. I am a finish carpenter so I am used to detail an challenges so I am ready to tackle this mission.. Thx keep in touch

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks that helped me a lot still few questions where would I buy that engine and yes it's a SVT from the factory so lots of svt on the car parts.. Cams are good still than I had someone try to say that you can't use them.. That info was for the 3l than I will have 900 saved in like a couple weeks I am so stooked about this build never have done a engine swap but my bro has done Hondas and jeeps so us together will figure it out just wosh I knew someone I into them as much as me closer to my house so we could walk thru stuff that I have a hard time with. I am a finish carpenter so I am used to detail an challenges so I am ready to tackle this mission.. Thx keep in touch

https://www.facebook.com/groups/200399430089801/   Join this group on Facebook if you use it. There are a ton of WA peeps that may even have engines

LKQ is a parts supplier. Just google there name. You already have most of the SVT parts so doing the swap is easy. If you go Full 3.0 you cannot used the SVT cams,. If you do a Hybrid 3.0 you can . You mate the 2.5 heads to the 3.0 long block. 

 

There is plenty of info here , check out the forums and  :welcomeani:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's something I will check out yea.. I had two bad a$$ CSVT pull up in my driveway today very awsome people from the forum shout out to the guy from Everett came out to see what I had and was working with pm me I will send pics.. It was like a mini car meet at my house really exited to do the build the info is greatly aprecieated svt demon what's your name

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Am I seeing that correctly? Like $900 to $1000 for 3L engine and parts... restore the y pipe/main cat  change my ex did... and a new dyno tune...  Uh oh.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would it be best (cost) to do the hybrid an if it's more than a 1000 what do you think it will run me an what would I need to buy for the swap if I already have a svt?

 

Can I start tare down of the old svt or should I wait for the motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hybrid is your most cost effective swap. Do not tear down the motor until you have the new one. To prevent rust 


 

PNWContour    talk to this guy he is Local. He can help 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

YVW Bro, good luck 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been studing the options I have an I think going the 3 litre route from LKQ is the way I am going.. I have to buy the motor and get parts (clutch, gaskets) as I get the money an build the motor in the garage as I pull the motor.. I want to do the least amount of stuff to get it back on the road right now.. It looks like leaving the 3l motor alone and doing only the mods I have to sounds like the least amount... The list you made above is what I will need for the 3l..

My friend is willing to loan me 5 or 600 for what I will need after I buy the motor so it shouldn't ta

ke long to get what I will need for the swap..

Edited by Robsvtcon98

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been studing the options I have an I think going the 3 litre route from LKQ is the way I am going.. I have to buy the motor and get parts (clutch, gaskets) as I get the money an build the motor in the garage as I pull the motor.. I want to do the least amount of stuff to get it back on the road right now.. It looks like leaving the 3l motor alone and doing only the mods I have to sounds like the least amount... The list you made above is what I will need for the 3l..

My friend is willing to loan me 5 or 600 for what I will need after I buy the motor so it shouldn't ta

ke long to get what I will need for the swap..

Don't rush the swap, and take your time doing it right. Sounds like you have a plan. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never done a engine pull/swap but I know I will be fine.. I wanted to know if it would worth it to machine the engine to keep it an svt.. The other day I pulled off the intake under it I found the openings where clogged with build up of burnt something?oil maybe??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pull pass side wheel and axle an about to pull the driver the pass side had a nut/bolt on subframe that got my cv rubber an put a hole making it leak the grease out I haven't seen anything really spicfic on the site about the video of a pull or professional swap vids but also trying to avoid damaging the other side by doing the same thing I will post pics in a bit I worked 14h today

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

honestly if we're doing a swap more than likely the lower control arms and most bushings are shot. same w the axles.. they do wear out over time.. and while we're in there it makes to "do it once, do it right"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.