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FAQ

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Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is it necessary to wire both voice coils of my subs up to an amplifier?

A: Yes, by only wiring one voice coil, you can cause damage to the subwoofer making it unplayable. You always need to wire both voice coils together.

 

Q: How do I know what type and size of a box I need to use for my subs?

A: You can look up the box parameters for your subs under

 

Q: My lights dim in my car, is this bad and what can I do to stop this from happening?

A: Lights dimming in your car is an indicator of a low voltage problem. This can be

caused many problems. You might want to have your system checked out to make sure it is running smoothly. Low voltage can be a serious problem. Low voltage will cause an amplifier to put out a DC voltage rather that AC, which can damage your speakers. Low voltage can also cause damage to an amplifier by not providing enough power to the amp to run properly. You can add batteries and or capacitors to the system to help with voltage problems.

 

Q: Is too much power, or too little power worse for a speaker?

A: Problems occur when distortion is fed to a speaker. This occurs more often when you are dealing with an underpowered system, typically the owner will turn up the volume too much or set the amplifier gains too high to try and get more volume from the system. This can greatly increase distortion of the signal. This will destroy any speaker. When a speaker is overpowered, however, it is not nearly as common to have these problems, so speakers aren't blown as much. It is certainly possible to destroy a speaker thermally by overpowering it or distorting the sub.

 

Q: Is it ok to use a different size port than the ones listed on my box parameters?

A: Using a different size port will change the tuning of the box. You will want to check with a professional.

 

Q: Why is it when I test the resistance on my subs, I am not getting the same rating as listed on the site or manuals?

A: Every manufacturer rates their subs with a specific resistance. The Re is not

necessarily going to be exactly the same all the time. Sometimes there will be a little deviation. The best way to measure resistance is with a meter.

 

Q: How do I adjust and set the gains on my amps?

A: 1. Disconnect all signal inputs to the amp

2. Turn all sensitivity adjustments as low as possible

3. Turn the head unit up to about 75-80% volume

with some music with which you know well,

and with EQ control settings to normal listening positions

4. Plug in one channel's input to the amp

5. Slowly turn that channel's gain up until you just start to

notice distortion on the output

6. Turn it down just a little bit from that point

7. Disconnect the current input

8. Repeat steps 4-7 with each input on your amp

9. Turn off head unit

10. Plug in all amp inputs, and you're done

 

Q: Is it ok to run the voice coils of a DVC (Dual Voice Coil) sub to different channels of an amp?

A: It is acceptable to run the coils off of different channels of an amp. You will need to make sure that you are receiving a mono signal to both inputs on the amplifier; otherwise the sub will be trying to play 2 different signals. This can eventually lead to permanent damage.

 

Q: What is the difference between a ported box and a sealed box?

A: Sealed enclosures produce tight, accurate sound. They are good for jazz, classical, light rock or country. They are also good for anyone looking for clean tight responsive bass, otherwise known as sound quality in their music. It is not limited to these types of music. Ported enclosures use a vent to increase low bass response. They produce a looser sound and will provide more volume compared to a sealed box with the same amplifier output. Ported enclosures are good for rap and hard rock. The sound quality and the response of the subs will not be as good as in a sealed box.

 

Q: Are component speakers, or separates better than a coaxial or full-range speaker?

A: Usually, yes. Using separates allows you to position the drivers independently and more carefully, which will give you more precise control over your imaging. For best results, try to keep the mid and tweeter as close together as possible - this will make the two drivers act more like a single point source of sound. This is an ideal situation. For rear fill applications, however, coaxial speakers will perform fine, as imaging is not a primary concern. However, it is very common to use a low pass crossover with the rear speakers since rear-fill is intended to produce "ambiance," and high frequencies (> 2500 Hz) can confuse the soundstage, making it appear that music is originating behind you.

This is why we created removable tweeters on our speakers. This allows you to control their placement, positioning and if you wish make it possible to set separate crossover frequencies and power them separately.

 

Q: Is it bad to have a port that is too short?

A: Although a port is used to get the correct tuning in a box, it is not good to have a ports that are too short. By too short I mean you want the port to be equal to or longer than the depth of you subwoofer.

 

Q: Is there a difference in performance between a circle and a slotted port?

A: No, you will get the same performance out of a box and the same tuning frequency as long as you have the same port opening size and depth. You will need to remember to calculate the displacement of the thickness of the wood being used as compared to the plastic of the circle ports in the box.

 

Q: How far from the wall of my box does my port need to be?

A: You want to have the port the same distance away from the box as the diameter of the port or more.

 

Q: Are all your amplifiers capable of being bridged together to get more power to a single sub?

A: No, only our mono block high current, class D and HC amps are capable of being bridged together. Some amps require a bridging module

 

Q: How do I wire my speakers to my amps when I am bridging the amps together?

A: You will need to connect the – terminals together. Then on the master amp the open + is your positive and on the slave amp the open + is your -. The master is the first amp you are connecting or your A amp. The slave amp is your second amp in line or your B amp.

 

Q: I want lots of low bass and I want to put lots of power to my sub in a sealed box. Why is it that the larger a sealed box, the less power a sub will be able to handle?

A: When using a large sealed box, a sub will not be able to handle as much power as in a small sealed box. In large sealed boxes, lots of power will cause the sub to bottom out, which can end up causing permanent damage to the sub. A larger box will allow a sub to move further, producing lower bass. IF this sub is pushed to far it can over-extend a subwoofer's abilities.

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Those are just a lil advanced, don't ya think, Chris? :P

 

 

How about:

 

Q: What size speakers can I put in my Contour?

A: Stock is 5x7" which is also 6x8", most 6x9"s will fit, but require new screw holes to be drilled. Some 6x9"s require slight trimming of the speaker opening. Basically, any size speaker will fit if you make an adapter plate, ie: 6 1/4" speaker on an MDF cut out for the hole.

 

Q: Where do I run my power wire through the firewall?

A: ATX's have a large (~4") grommet where the clutch cable is on MTX cars. Poke that with a knife and run the wire through there. For MTX's, there's another grommet, much higher on the firewall, just below the wiper cowl. Run the cable through that.

 

Q: Can I run all the wires to the trunk on the same side?

A: Nope. Run the signal wires on the opposite side of the car from the power wire. Having the two too close together will produce noise in the system (alternator whine) that gets louder with the engine's rpms.

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True dat, the average stereo starter only really needs to know not to max out their subs, not to mismatch impedance, and to use proper wiring. After that, they'll be addicted and ask what they need to know.

 

You're throwing out info that someone wanting to win SPL and SQL comps needs, an electronics technician even.

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Sorry it was a bit too much for a starter. It was 1 in the morning here and my wife was making me stay up with her. I ran across the two documents I pinned up there, but I forget that I know the speaker size and running wires. Thank you for adding that. Here is some other things I found.

 

Step by step stereo install.

http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/FLM/P.../PDF/356041.pdf

 

The Install Doctor is a great site for other stereo things too.

http://www.installdr.com/]http://www.insta....installdr.com/

 

And if you don't feel like or do have to tools to make an adapter plate here is a wedsite that sells them they are $6 a pair.

 

http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/speakeradapters.htm

 

front6x8.jpg

 

rear6x8.jpg

 

stereo2.jpg

 

stereo3.jpg

 

stereo4.jpg

 

stereo5.jpg

 

And here is something that is going to help me out when I put on my Autoloc system...

 

Wiring for FORD 1999 CONTOUR

 

Vehicle Security

Constant 12 Volts RED IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition Power 12 Volts GREEN IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter GRAY/WHITE IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Parking Lights RED/BLUE (+) AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

Head Lights ORANGE/YELLOW (+) WHITE/VIOLET (-)

Dome Lights BLACK/BLUE (-) 10 PIN CONN. ON BACK OF FUSE BLOCK

Door Lock WHITE/GREEN PANEL

Door Unlock YELLOW/GREEN PANEL

Trunk Pin Switch BLACK/ORANGE (-) AT LIGHT IN TRUNK

Trunk/Hatch Release ORANGE/GREEN (+) AT EOM KEYLESS MODULE

OEM Alarm Arm AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH DRIVER KICK PANEL

OEM Alarm Disarm YELLOW/VIOLET (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL

OEM Horn BLACK/BLUE (-) STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

Door Lock Motor Lock WHITE/VIOLET AT OEM KEYLESS MODULE

Door Lock Motor Unlock YELLOW/VIOLET AT OEM KEYLESS MODULE

Driver Door Priority Unlock YELLOW/VIOLET AT OEM KEYLESS MODULE

Remote Keyless Entry Module HIGH IN PASSENGER KICK PANEL

OEM Relays BUILT INTO OEM KEYLESS MODULE

Window Up D WHITE P WHT/VIO D WHT/BLU P WHITE AT MAIN A5

Window Down F/ YEL/GRN F/ YEL/VIO R/ YEL/BLU R/ YELLOW SWITCH

Add On Security System Protocal #5 CONNECTION EX5

NOTES:

 

 

 

Remote Start

Accessory YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Tach Signal WHITE/BLACK AT POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE PASSIVE ANTI THEFT SYSTEM (PATS) BYPASS MODULE NEEDED (#BYTRAN or #BYTRAN2)

Rear Defrost BLACK/WHITE (-) AT SWITCH

Brake Light ORANGE/YELLOW (+) AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

Neutral Safety BLACK/YELLOW (-) AT SWITCH ON TRANSMISSION

Reverse Light VIOLET/BLACK (+) 14 PIN CONNECTOR BEHIND DRIVER DASH

 

 

 

Audio

FRONT

Drivers Front Speaker (+) WHITE/BLACK

Drivers Front Speaker (-) BROWN/YELLOW

Passengers Front Speaker (+) WHITE/RED

Passengers Front Speaker (-) BROWN/RED

 

REAR

Drivers Rear Speaker (+) WHITE/VIOLET

Drivers Rear Speaker (-) BROWN/WHITE

Passengers Rear Speaker (+) WHITE

Passengers Rear Speaker (-) BROWN

 

When I do it I will take pics of all the work.

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I was asked a question the other day I didn't know the answer to so I asked someone I thought better know. The question was when I mount my speakers with the Mag out of the box how do I wire them, and will this make a difference in sound. Well I knew the answer to the first part it was the second part I was wondering. It only makes sense that if you put a mag in front of a speaker it would block the sound. So I e-mailed Audiobahn and here is what I got.

 

'When you hook the speaker wires to the amp the +wire will go on the -terminal and the -wire will go on the +terminal. This will make the subs 180degrees out of phase but will place them in phase with the rest of the system. This will not affect the sound at all."

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I know this sticky is like 4 years old but want to say thanks a lot. I have been trying to figure how to get my power wire through the firewall without having to drill a hole. Its like 35 below here and trying to finish this instal as quick as i can. Lots of good info here if your a little expierenced as well as the few good things for beginners. Once again thanks for the info its really much appreciated.

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