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I just wanted to put this out there so that people could put let everyone know that you are hitting. Also a list of what you are running.

 

I will be running...

Kenwood "KVT-911DVD" In-Dash 7" Monitor DVD/CD

Kenwood "KNA-DV3100" DVD Navigation System

Kenwood "KHD-C710" Music Keg

Kenwood (2) "KAC-X520" 2-Channel Power Amplifier

- Audiobahn (2) pair 6 1/2" components "ACIS62"

Kenwood "KAC-X810D" Class D Mono Power Amplifier

- Audiobahn (2) 8†NATURAL SOUND WOOFER "AW831T"

Audiobahn (2) 2400watt AMPS "A2400HCT"

- Audiobahn (2) 2000watt 15" Subs "AW1508T"

 

I won't know what I am hitting until I get it all in my car this sumer.

I hope we all enjoy this.

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2 Audiobahn 12" AW 1251 Q subs

Alpine SPS 1005 Tweeters

Custom Enclosure

Jensen 6x8s (old but ok)

Pioneer DEH-3400

Volfenhag ZX 7150 700 W amp

 

All in all when measured with my old prefab box...

 

125.6 dB

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last August at a small contour gathering in the Chicagoland area we went to a show and i hit 135db with:

 

Clarion DXZ535 HU

RF power 500bd sub amp

one 12" RF HE2--2003 model

Pioneer 4way 6x9's in the front doors

Blaupunct 6.5" 2 ways in the rear doors

4ch kicker impulse highs amp, but 2 of the 4 ch. are blown so all 4 speakers were running off 2 40w channels

not to mention all knukonceptz wires.... B)

 

But now i have a new amp for the highs ( RF power 551X) and a Kenwood 5 band EQ with a sub channel output on it. i had the EQ sitting around so i just popped it in one day and it sounded even better so i left it in. but since my car has not been driven for a while i have been quietly workng on the system more...as far as soundproofing goes, i have the entire under body and inside trunk area, and all 4 doors sprayed with a 1/8" or more in certain areas, undercoat that we did at Zeibart's where my buddy works. that made a HUGE difference in road noise and also improved sound quality as well. i still have to do the roof, and rear deck and trunk lid and possibly a little bit on the doors themselves. i am guessing it is close to 145db now.......i will be able to get a reading on it come June when my car is ready to go.

 

Ben

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How good does undercoating work? I hope to start my install in July. I will rip out the entire interior. I can't wait to start; I am hoping to get around 155 - 160 out of it. I just hope that the windows are up to the pressure. I don't plan on running my 15 all the time. I am going to put my 8" subs in the rear deck inverted in a fiberglass enclosure.

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It's pretty much spray-in truck bedliner. Now there are two kinds of undercoating: Rubberized Undercoating and normal Undercoating. The rubberized kind has a rough surface when it's applied. It's not really rubber feeling, but it does work really well. It's durable and can be applied very thick. Normal undercoating is pretty much the same as rubberized except normal undercoating leaves a smooth finish. It also has a stiffer finish. By stiffer, I mean it's more dense than the rubberized stuff, so it can take impacts better.

 

 

In my trunk, I used (IIRC) 3 cans of rubberized undercoating to coat the entire trunk except for the lid. Then I used 1 can of normal undercoating on top of all of that so it'd be smooth. This stuff is very easy to work with. When you apply it, do it in small, thin layers. If you glop it on there, it'll be easy for it to come off if you pick at it or something.

 

 

Each kind of under coating is ~$3-5 per can. You can get it anywhere: Wal Mart, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, etc....

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160? Hello $15000 project. The guy that whooped in my class had about $7500 in his equipment and only hit 146. That was a 500W + class. I think he was running 4000Watts.

 

I'm sorry, that used to be one of my goals, but without serious sponsorship, there's almost no way to afford it.

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I like my eardrums. And I also like my car to weigh under two tons.

 

It needs to be fast.

 

I'd rather spend money to make it run 11's than spend money to rattle my fenders off

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In a 1989 Ford Contour (4 years ago);

I hade two 12" Phoenix Gold Subs in a custom made (by me) & tuned bandpass box, a set of 4" mid-bass with 3/4" tweetes in the rear, and a 6" woofer with a 5 3/4" mid-range and 1" tweeters in the front doors, and finaly a 4" mid in the center of the dash. (All speakers, besides subs, were Soundstream)

Alpine CD player to an AudioControl Four.1 to an AudioControl EQX to a Soundstream Reference 405s. Also an AudioControl EQX to halep make the center channel really stand out.

142.8dB with 2 x 100W to subs and 4 x 50W to each corner, 1 x 25W to center.

Dynamat all over the hatch and door areas.

All for under $5000 with install and accesories.

Now what's left of the system sits in my garage waiting to be installed in the Contour.

 

The 120-130 range is about the max a resonably priced street system is going to hit. And that is more than loud enough to cause hearing loss.

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I like my eardrums. And I also like my car to weigh under two tons.

 

It needs to be fast.

 

I'd rather spend money to make it run 11's than spend money to rattle my fenders off [/b]

Do you ever contribut actual info to a conversation?

Or does everything have to revolve around your WRX?

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Do you ever contribut actual info to a conversation?

Or does everything have to revolve around your WRX? [/b]

Dude, he's a speed freak... Not an audio guru.

 

Take what he says for what it's worth, all that equipment in the trunk isn't for go.. It's for show.

 

-Dom

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Dude, he's a speed freak... Not an audio guru.

 

Take what he says for what it's worth, all that equipment in the trunk isn't for go.. It's for show.

 

-Dom [/b]

Yeah. I'm all about the speed. If I want audio, I'll make myself a nice home entertainment system. My car isnt a theater.

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So, you don't think 4800watts will hit between 155 - 160? I was hitting 145 with a mmats D200 amd and a 15" Treo sub. But we will see. I am fting to make a show car out of my SVT. I think am $8000.00 stereo system is a good start. I had planed on putting it in my Celica GT4 but I can't take that back to the US with me. I have a great setup planed for the SVT.

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About 3 years ago I had two 12" FR powers, the old ones with the big chrome mag. running off a 1500w Power acoustic gothic series amp. In the comp. I hit a 153 but was beat by a guy running one 15 in an escort.

 

Mat

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so

 

exactly what do you use to measure the dB's? and how? are we talking like full volume on the HU with full volume on the amp

 

controller (not the frequency settings)

 

i'm just wondering because i make a pretty good BUMP at half volume...rear

 

window starts shaking at 35/40...and people can hear me coming a mile away...

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dB is

 

all about loud. SPL is measuring sound pressure, quality goes out the window on this one. If your Hu and amp(s) can run that

 

long so that your system can be measured, if all good. Me, I dont think burning up your work and not knowing your gonna win is

 

stupid. I say live to fight another day. But if your gonna at least let me watch.

 

I have seen to many people blow the

 

cone out of the basket. Melt RCAs to the amps. Now I have done that because of wiring wrong. Power cables glowing red,

 

setting trunks on fire. Windows craking all day. I even seen a door blow open. The guy was running 4 15s, not sure of what

 

or how many amps. But I know what I seen. The gap at the door was at least an inch and a half.

 

Oh, and sound carrys

 

real good at night. During the day it sucks. When I had my first system, around 11 or 12 at night I was leaving my GFs. I

 

asked her to call me when she couldnt hear my bass. I got like 2 and half miles, now I know it takes a couple second to dial

 

and get the call. So I go with 2miles. But that system blow long ago, along with the kenwoods. Everything but the HU. I

 

learned my lesson. Dont play with fire. You will get burned.

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dB is all about loud. SPL

 

is measuring sound pressure, quality goes out the window on this one. If your Hu and amp(s) can run that long so that your

 

system can be measured, if all good.

 

 

 

i'm pretty sure all my equip. can handle it...here is what i am running:

Pioneer deh-p7650mp HU (australian

 

equivalent of the deh-p7600mp in the states)

Pioneer 220w 3ways in the front

stock speakers in the back

Lanzar

 

vibe 231 800w amp

2 12in. Audiobahn AW1251T subs

Tsunami amp wiring (4 gauge power/ground)

stock speaker

 

wiring

 

i just want to know how LOUD it can get....for ear-splitting purposes :wink:

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Anyone have any suggestions on how many dB's ill b hitting in the comps this summer, i have a mystique gs(i know its a 4 door not the best for spl thats y im looking for a ford festiva :lol: ) heres my equipment

Pioneer dep-4600mp

infinity reference 5x7s

0/1 gauge wire

1 stinger 1 farad cap 1 tsunami 1.2 farad=2.2 farad good for 2200 watts

2 15" memphis subwoofer...i have no idea what model...i can post pics if needed

1 hifonics brutus bx-2200d 2200 watts rms

box in the making something ported and tuned around 60hz for comps and a dd box tuned around 30-35.

also will be upgrading to an optima yellow top.

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Anyone have any suggestions on how many dB's ill b hitting in the comps this summer, i have a mystique gs(i know its a 4 door not the best for spl thats y im looking for a ford festiva  :lol: ) heres my equipment

Pioneer dep-4600mp

infinity reference 5x7s

0/1 gauge wire

1 stinger 1 farad cap 1 tsunami 1.2 farad=2.2 farad good for 2200 watts

2 15" memphis subwoofer...i have no idea what model...i can post pics if needed

1 hifonics brutus bx-2200d 2200 watts rms

box in the making something ported and tuned around 60hz for comps and a dd box tuned around 30-35.

also will be upgrading to an optima yellow top.

 

 

...all depends on how well it's all setup.

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You guys need an audio expert up in here ;-D.

 

dB is measured by using either a microphone or a pressure sensor. The sensors are much more accurate. Specifically the Termlab USB sensor. It is the best measuring device and other meters can make you think you are anywhere from 3 - 10 dB louder than you actually are. More important than equipment selection, is box design. Give a novice $500 to spend, he'll be lucky to get into the mid 130s. Give the money to someone that knows what they are doing, hello 140s :-D.

 

If you haven't had your system metered in a while, get it metered on a 2004+ Termlab USB, you'll probably be shocked at your #, most likely considerably lower than what you were used to.

 

Also, sensor location affects your # tremendously. "Legal" is considered on the dash with the windows up, usually a specific number of inches from the A pillar and dash. "Outlaw" means you put the port wherever you want and do almost whatever you want to do short of touching the sensor or slamming a car door. "Port Wars" is when you put the sensor in the port of the box (if your box is ported), and #s are seriously inflated in this method.

 

There is so much that goes into SPL competition that it is impossible to even give someone an estimate as to what they will hit. If you want to learn a whole lot about this whole scene, visit www.termpro.com. You will quickly learn who to listen to and who to dismiss.

 

Any questions and I'll be happy to answer, I love this stuff.

 

EDIT - To keep on topic, I've hit..

 

141 dB with 6 8s and 1200 watts

142 dB with 1 12 and 1200 watts

 

Unfortunately both of those setups were before I gained much of the knowledge I now have. Once I gained the logic to really work some magic, I turned poor :-D.

Edited by bangincaraudio

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I didn't really want to touch that question for the same reason. I am getting ready to start building my Audiobahn system here in a few months. I hope I can do good with it.

 

It never hurts to have more people, but the Audio forum doesn't really see many post. I think most come from me, and my cars.

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Since I got out of the business (and miss it) I haven't had much time/$ for the hobby. But I'm promising this year something big. Not in the tour, it has to have some fast mods done first, but we've got so far from kenwood 2 12s and 2 10s, looking for a tornado 15 to match. Then heading for a custom TUNED fiberglass enclosure (removing back seat). We still haven't decided on the amps to use though. My wife wants to place well at SPL comp this summer, and I plan on making it happen. She's also wanting to go for the bling bling PS2 and LCD setup. This will be one well equiped zx2 when we're done.

 

As for "expert" advice, anyone familiar with the subject will know that you can't help someone much without being there. They will do what they want and will learn in their own way. I cannot convince some of my own friends that legacy equipment in a prefab box is crap. They only wonder why mine is clearer and louder.

 

Yes, FCO is more performance oriented. But we don't lack experience or know-how. I'm not saying that you don't "know your stuff", I don't know you. I do have to bring forth of us that are here.

 

Bring a legitimate claim or question, and Chris or myself will gladly read your posts in our part of this forum.

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I feel ya on people not taking advice. Its really hard to convince someone over the net that what they beleive isn't right. You can't really show them otherwise.

 

I wasn't trying to say no one here knew anything, my bad sounding all pompous, I was really just more joking.

 

Lets bring some audio to the contours!!! B)

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