Nerawkas

DOM! You were right! I did forget to plug in that sucker! Carmella (yea i know funny name) is running fine now just outside. I erased the trouble codes and now i think she'll be all right. thanks again!!!!! <3

So i noticed this while inspecting my car. This is the ECT sensor? Are there supposed to be two wires? Because it looks like there is only one...

okay, so he said i needed a new starter, and i got one yesterday. i just got done putting it in, and the car started. I had to remove some of the radiator hoses to get at it, draining some coolant. now that i refilled it the car is starting to hesitate on start up. it sounds like theirs no fuel going into the engine. I scanned it and got a p0118, temperature high circuit input. I did remove the ECT, but ican see I plugged it back in. So i restarted the engine, i.e., erased the codes, and I thought i should post on the forums before tackling it again. I know the p0118 code can lead to a no start issue.

So i just checked some of my wires and i found some to be brittle and some wires exposed. i repatched and tried again. No avail. At this point i took the starter out, and found the gears all to be stuck. I heard these things are easy to turn by hand. I took it to a friend who said i needed a new starter. Ill be doing some more tests on it so I don't spend recklessly. Wish me luck.

This morning I went to wash my car. Its a 1999 SE Contour 2.5l DOHC with +200k miles on it. When I decided that I needed new towels I went to start the car for a morning drive. The usual clicks were replaced with this slow whirling noise. I kept the ignition key on, and when the car didn't start I let go. It turned on! But I knew this wasn't normal and turned it back off. I turned the key again only to find the whirling noise replaced by a constant fast clicking noise. Sounds like the spark plugs igniting. The car didn't turn over or turn on. Same thing. So my guess is the starter, and before involving to much time and effort into replacing that, I just want to hear what you guys think about this? Can you confirm its the starter? Or could it be something completely different?

Be careful if you are trying to pass this in California. You need to complete 5 of the 7 systems for the driving cycles. If you remove the battery to erase CEL codes, this will also reset your driving cycles. At smog places they will check if your drive cycles are complete. I dont know what area you live in, but you might want to check the SMOG policies to make sure. Also, unplugging the battery will erase your CEL codes, but only until the drive cycles completes. if the CEL comes back on, then that really indicates that you have a problem.

Name: FORD Contour SE Sport (1999) Date Added: 15 April 2010 - 10:58 PM Owner: Nerawkas Short Description: My first car, I love it to death. View Vehicle

Ive been doing as much research as I can, but I'm not getting the info I need. I've visted batauto.com but got nothing I needed. As for my question and thread, I have two CEL codes, P1151 and p1131, and I've just discovered that I have a return fuel system, 99 ford contour SE 2.5 l dohc. What I need to know is which sensor belongs to which code, for example, I have two O2 sensors one is for upstream, and the other downstream. Is P1131 for the upstream? Or downstream? Theres also 4 others, Im just wondering if i got the two ones i need. AND, where is the location of these sensors? P1151 downstream? Before cat? After? Upstream? I just cant find the info on the internet.

Thanks for the insight guys, but i have cleaned the UIM/LIM but not the LIM completely, i cant seem to get it all the way off. seems that the fuel lines are really difficult to take it off, i think my car has a returnless fuel system. also, if i were to check for vaccums, what can i check to make sure? I know the vaccums off the UIM, brake booster and what not, the PCV hoses and such. but maybe perhaps a weakening head gasket? how can i check for that? basically i wanna check terry, how can i see if i have a vuccum leak or not?

wow, that would seem doable, only problem is, I dont know how to take them off. I can get all the way to taking off the fuel connectors (electrical) but actually taking out the fuel lines and the injectors themselves, I have no idea. Also, i was doing some more research and came up with the IAC, if dirty, could cause similar problem.

I've cleaned my injectors with Lucas Fuel Injectors, ive checked all 6 of them while the car was on, all of them are running correctly, intake is also clean. filter is free of dirt and debris, throttle body was cleaned 3 months ago, along with the egr passages. emissions are clean, pcv, egr, selenoid and vaccume back pressure, all done by myself correctly and accurately, so far ive replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and coil pack.

Im usually on CEG but recently they cant solve a problem of mine and noone will even offer a solution. this is my problem... I've Replaced fuel filter and pressure regulator, now the car doesnt have any problems on cold starts, and seems fine with hot/warm starts. but it seems that once I start my ac, power is lost completly that the car begins to starve for fuel. and it only shuts off when the ac is on, it takes about 15 mins of cool down before i can start it back up again. i have an oil leak so could something be clogging the ac system so bad that it drains all available power from the engine just to work? this is the original problem... AHEM* This is going to take some work for you gear heads out there. So I'll try to explain it as much as possible. Car: 99 Contour Duretec V6 178K ATX Maintence: New Sparks and wires, new pcv and egr, cleaned mAF and new filter, new oil (trans and engine) cleaned TB and UIM. All of this done within 3 months. Existing Problems: Oil leak, CEL codes p1131, p1151, p0171 and radiator light on New Problem: Today i drove from torrance to annihem (sorry cant spell) a total of 27 miles, but today it took me 1 hour cuz of traffic. had the ac full blast cuz my dads fat and he likes the cold. i prefer to drive with windows down. when we got to our destination my dad wanted to stay in the car for 10 miintues with ac on. 8 mintues into it the rpm just dropped below 500 and the car started spputtering. its never done that before. as quickly as it came it went away, i figured it was just the ac sucking power form the engine,until it did it again. 250 this time! i thought it was going to stall. well when he got out of the car i shut it off and took a nap in the car waiting for him. out of curiosity i turned the car on about 20mins after that. this timeit barley started, staying under 700 and dancing towards 250 until it died. i tried it again but nothing. a few mintues later i tried to turn it on again and it began to sputter, i pulled the throttle cable and and air didnt get sucked it. i open the filter box and still the engine refused to suck in air. ok so i just chill and relax, and wait 2 hours. and lo and behold the car started. it sputtered at first but then began to idle nicely. but as i was driving home the engine started slacking and even the engine light began to flash indicated a misfire, right? well in 10 secs the light stopped flashing and the engine stopped sputtering i got home safely, but this issue is too great for me to ingnore. anyone got some insight? with 11 replies, 7 of mine, and 244 views, no one can help. hopefully you can give me some insight.

yea... ceg... well welcome to the forums! i too am from so cal! and i despreatly want a meet...

if you could, post also the printout of your emission readouts, i just passed mine yesterday after 2 weeks straight of tinkering and 8 re-tests...