eepals

Hello Terry, Is the bearing /shield, for the linkshaft, available from the aftermarket. My service manual show the service procedure. Ford only sells the whole shaft now for $150. Thanks, Ed

I find t easy to just look down the opening of the tank as I pour the fluid back in. You can see the fluid level rise up the grooved area of the inner tank. In the dark you can also shine a strong flash light in the top of the tank and you'll see better if you have the correct level looking at the tank markings.

Why is a water pump that doesn't show typical signs that it's going bad, "Common Sense" The pump doesn't leak like a typical pump showing you it's bad. That link shows the problem in detail easier then I can explain it. Sorry I didn't realize you hated CEG this bad, or will you edit this post also.

"It went bad". Better explanation then sending someone elsewhere! I see that again and you will get warned. -Dom

I have an Airtex water pump, 45,000 since I had to replace the original at 61,000. Only complaint I have with the Airtex was it cost $90 in Oct. of 2002.

I am aware of his opinion of the problems using atf. I have the lousy cold 1-2 shift in my MTX. I am asking about the friction modifier? People use it with the Ford honey, which is not atf, and it improves shifting.

I respect your knowledge on the MTX. I am now temporarily using Rotella 5-40, but when I was using synthethic ATF a little bit of FM made a noticeable difference in shiftabiltiy for the better . What harm does it do? Some even use it with the Ford Honey and said it helps.

95-97 don't have the PATS system. To the original poster, how are the wires in the engine compartment? Read this. http://www.contour.org/FAQ/recall/99M03/

Here is a link to the problems certain engine harnesses could have. Look it over. As Terry said earlier even though your car wouldn't be covered with this recall your harness might be a left over one used in the early 98 models, that is subject to the bad insulation on the wires. The harness under the UIM will probably be in the worse shape because it is subject to the highest heat, That harness you are moving around might be the one that goes to the CKP sensor (Crank Position Sensor) When I had my recall done the shielding on that cable was completely missing, but the car still ran, although roughly at times, idle wise. http://www.contour.org/FAQ/recall/99M03/ Look at Figure 4, that is where the Cam and Crank sensors are.

Pictures help.. http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=6702

Did you do that test yet? How much coolant did you say it loses?

Fel-Pro Valve cover gaskets, #VS 50462R, is the whole kit. Spark Plug Tube Seals are #95720 (set of six)

If you are seeing the consensation at that flange with the engine cold, that is normal engine condensation. I would also say the exhaust flange/Y pipe joint isn't tightened properly. You can probably tighten the two bolts up evenly to stop it, but thats the least of your worries. What were the compression readings? Plug color looks good. Did you try removing the plug from the cylinder. you think is bad and start the engine up with five plugs connected, after the car sat overnight? Loosely stuff a tissue/clean white rag in the plug well (duct tape the opening leave a few small holes in the tape to let compression escape) start the car and see if you get any coolant spit out of the cylinder on to the tissue.

There is no coolant in the UIM. Explain again where you are seeing coolant leaking. Do you mean after the pre cat flange?