CEL Codes 1151 &0153

[LEROY84]

As stated I have the mentioned trouble codes when I run my OBDII. They are for (O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1) and (O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1) respectively. Also when I first start on my car and drive it for like the first 3-5 minutes and idle at a light the car has stalled on two different occasions, could this O2 sensor be a contributing factor? Also if anyone knows which O2 sensor corresponds with this code (i.e it's location) it would be appreciated. When I bought the car it had the muffler removed and is currently running straight pipe, does anyone think it would be in my best interest to put a new muffler on? Any input would be appreciated, Thanks.

-Steve

[jeffmknight]

It's the first sensor on the front bank, just below the 3-into-1 manifold at the top of the precat. Could be the sensor causing the stalling because this one does the "tuning" for that half of the motor, but you should probably make sure there's no vacuum leaks before throwing any expensive parts at it.

 

As far as the straight pipes, your neighbors might have something to say about that. But the car really doesn't care one way or the other... I have no cats or resonator, only mufflers (which are quite unrestrictive -- Bassani catback system). A little loud for my tastes and some weird looks from the Mormons I am surrounded by, but money is tight right now so it has to do.

[LEROY84]

Yeah I don't really like my neighbors so they'll have to deal with it for now. I'll check for vacuum leaks as well, not too sure what I'm looking for so if you have any advice on where to start that would be more than appreciated. Remember I am only starting to figure out how things on my car work, and how to fix them so be gentle lol.

-Steve

[jeffmknight]

Well in that case, f*** 'em. You probably get more power from those straights anyway.

 

Here's a shot of another member's motor I highlighted for them a while back. It shows the primary vacuum lines where they hook into the manifold:

 

Since you're only getting codes from the front bank, though, I would suggest the leak (if any) would probably be at the front of the UIM/LIM gasket. If you're certain there's no leak, then at that point you should go for a new O2. Unfortunately, they really should be replaced in sets from what I've read... IIRC you do both of the precat O2s together..

 

Not to worry, I'm gentle. You see, I am really a noob to the 'Tour, too. I am open to criticism and corrections from the mods and seniors since I am (obviously) still green.

[LEROY84]

Awesome, thank you Jeff (I am assuming that's your name) I will give those a check tomorrow and see what's up? Also I guess I now have to start pricing some O2 sensors....I should probably get a new filter for my cold air intake as well, it just looks old and crappy.

-Thanks again, Steve.

[SVTDEMON]

Well in that case, f*** 'em. You probably get more power from those straights anyway.

 

Here's a shot of another member's motor I highlighted for them a while back. It shows the primary vacuum lines where they hook into the manifold:

 

Since you're only getting codes from the front bank, though, I would suggest the leak (if any) would probably be at the front of the UIM/LIM gasket. If you're certain there's no leak, then at that point you should go for a new O2. Unfortunately, they really should be replaced in sets from what I've read... IIRC you do both of the precat O2s together..

 

Not to worry, I'm gentle. You see, I am really a noob to the 'Tour, too. I am open to criticism and corrections from the mods and seniors since I am (obviously) still green.

Jeff I think we can consider you NOT GREEN! Handled this very well.

[rkctdwn]

As stated I have the mentioned trouble codes when I run my OBDII. They are for (O2 sensor circuit low voltage bank 2 sensor 1) and (O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1) respectively. Also when I first start on my car and drive it for like the first 3-5 minutes and idle at a light the car has stalled on two different occasions, could this O2 sensor be a contributing factor? Also if anyone knows which O2 sensor corresponds with this code (i.e it's location) it would be appreciated. When I bought the car it had the muffler removed and is currently running straight pipe, does anyone think it would be in my best interest to put a new muffler on? Any input would be appreciated, Thanks.

-Steve

What scan tool are you using? Can you request Fords misfire, fuel and O-2 Pids? I just noticed this yesterday I had a code set as I came up driveway, it was P1151 and a pending from continuous monitor section P0153. Here I've waiting for the codes for the bank 1 sensor 1 that use to be sensor to go first? That was caused I think because the misfires from the rear plugs that fire backwards??? Because those sharing over the years I got Autolites double plats in bank and couple other electrical connections and have seen a misfire for Hmmm many many years now.

Since I have a back-up Mistake I used that sensor. I use two 2-ton jacks under the back bolts of the eng/tranny frame (the proper name won't come to me right now). I raise it up disconnected the connector and using my 7/8" box end the connector/wire fits thru. It was very simple to break loose. Of course I usually use PB blaster on everything like that. The hardest part of the whole project jacking up both vehicles. I 100% easily I'm sure than the bank 1 O-2. Using the box end wrench was so much easier than fighting with O-2 socket with the wire slot.

Of course my real dread is the Alternator at age 64, I'm not that agile anymore and the loss of muscle strength.

I ran quick test of the data PID's and the O-2 voltages look like it ok. The real test is to do a test drive and record the data. And let the PCM's software crunch the math and let it tell me if it's happy now? I'll update if anything is found of value!