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CAR sputters and stalls, ATX.


Nerawkas

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Im usually on CEG but recently they cant solve a problem of mine and noone will even offer a solution.

this is my problem...

 

 

I've Replaced fuel filter and pressure regulator, now the car doesnt have any problems on cold starts, and seems fine with hot/warm starts. but it seems that once I start my ac, power is lost completly that the car begins to starve for fuel. and it only shuts off when the ac is on, it takes about 15 mins of cool down before i can start it back up again. i have an oil leak so could something be clogging the ac system so bad that it drains all available power from the engine just to work?

 

this is the original problem...

AHEM*

This is going to take some work for you gear heads out there. So I'll try to explain it as much as possible.

Car: 99 Contour Duretec V6 178K ATX

 

Maintence: New Sparks and wires, new pcv and egr, cleaned mAF and new filter, new oil (trans and engine) cleaned TB and UIM. All of this done within 3 months.

 

Existing Problems: Oil leak, CEL codes p1131, p1151, p0171 and radiator light on

 

New Problem: Today i drove from torrance to annihem (sorry cant spell) a total of 27 miles, but today it took me 1 hour cuz of traffic. had the ac full blast cuz my dads fat and he likes the cold. i prefer to drive with windows down. when we got to our destination my dad wanted to stay in the car for 10 miintues with ac on. 8 mintues into it the rpm just dropped below 500 and the car started spputtering. its never done that before. as quickly as it came it went away, i figured it was just the ac sucking power form the engine,until it did it again. 250 this time! i thought it was going to stall. well when he got out of the car i shut it off and took a nap in the car waiting for him. out of curiosity i turned the car on about 20mins after that. this timeit barley started, staying under 700 and dancing towards 250 until it died. i tried it again but nothing. a few mintues later i tried to turn it on again and it began to sputter, i pulled the throttle cable and and air didnt get sucked it. i open the filter box and still the engine refused to suck in air. ok so i just chill and relax, and wait 2 hours. and lo and behold the car started. it sputtered at first but then began to idle nicely. but as i was driving home the engine started slacking and even the engine light began to flash indicated a misfire, right? well in 10 secs the light stopped flashing and the engine stopped sputtering i got home safely, but this issue is too great for me to ingnore. anyone got some insight?

 

 

with 11 replies, 7 of mine, and 244 views, no one can help. hopefully you can give me some insight.

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Had you made your inyectors and intakes clean?? That happened to mine until they cleanded them.

 

I've cleaned my injectors with Lucas Fuel Injectors, ive checked all 6 of them while the car was on, all of them are running correctly, intake is also clean. filter is free of dirt and debris, throttle body was cleaned 3 months ago, along with the egr passages. emissions are clean, pcv, egr, selenoid and vaccume back pressure, all done by myself correctly and accurately, so far ive replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and coil pack.

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Ok, you mean that you had never taken out the injectors from engine to be cleaned? If that's the case, that's exactlly what i used to do, I allways had applied fuel injector cleaners and the problem never went away until I changed the store where I used to service it, they took off the injectors, they washed them properly; they were filled of dirt. After that, the engine never tried to stall, that was 2.5 years ago.

Edited by Comano
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Ok, you mean that you had never taken out the injectors from engine to be cleaned? If that's the case, that's exactlly what i used to do, I allways had applied fuel injector cleaners and the problem never went away until I changed the store where I used to service it, they took off the injectors, they washed them properly; they were filled of dirt. After that, the engine never tried to stall, that was 2.5 years ago.

wow, that would seem doable, only problem is, I dont know how to take them off. I can get all the way to taking off the fuel connectors (electrical) but actually taking out the fuel lines and the injectors themselves, I have no idea. Also, i was doing some more research and came up with the IAC, if dirty, could cause similar problem.

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You know it might be time to do the uim/lim cleaning and gasket replacement, since to remove the injectors you have to remove the uim & fuel rail anyway. The main issue (BTW do you have returnless or not?) when removing the wiring harness from the injectors those plastic release tabs on the connectors of the returnless wiring harness get very brittle and break very easily. (Terry is there a replacement / repair for them?) I don't know if the return style harness can be used as a replacement for it as the male pins on the injectors are different.

 

Terry, other than the pins what is the difference between injectors return vs returnless if any?

 

 

It just sounds like it is time for doing some maintenance and this job is particulaly messy if done correctly. However when completed I and many others have noticed much improvement in performance. You can not believe how carboned up the secondaries can be and still mostly function.

 

Just a thought,

AF

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Thanks for the insight guys, but i have cleaned the UIM/LIM but not the LIM completely, i cant seem to get it all the way off. seems that the fuel lines are really difficult to take it off, i think my car has a returnless fuel system. also, if i were to check for vaccums, what can i check to make sure? I know the vaccums off the UIM, brake booster and what not, the PCV hoses and such. but maybe perhaps a weakening head gasket? how can i check for that? basically i wanna check terry, how can i see if i have a vuccum leak or not?

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