LEROY84 Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 So I checked my stupid CEL and the code came back misfire on cylinder 1. Is this a bad spark plug? I am not happy with my car right now, I'll still drive her but I'm not happy. Any advice would be appreciated I just need to know what to fix. -Thanks, Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffmknight Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 So I checked my stupid CEL and the code came back misfire on cylinder 1. Is this a bad spark plug? I am not happy with my car right now, I'll still drive her but I'm not happy. Any advice would be appreciated I just need to know what to fix. -Thanks, Steve. Start by swapping that plug with another cylinder and see if the misfire follows it. If not, then go for the wires next. Really should avoid driving as much as possible on a misfire, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrApple Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 when was the last time the plugs and wires where changed? I don't think that i would go and swap plugs around. its a good troubleshooting idea but with the way these cars carbon track plugs and wires I wouldn't do it. you need to inspect for carbon tracking. I had #1 and #3 do this. new plugs and wires took care of the issue. it wasn't even enough to cause a cel but I could feel it on acceleration. make sure to use some dielectric grease also when installing new plug wires. oh and make sure you always change both together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 ...the car is 12 years old!!..Maybe it's time to check/change plugs etc!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEROY84 Posted May 20, 2010 Author Share Posted May 20, 2010 Yeah the plug wires are pretty new, I got this car used so I inherited all of her underlying problems as well. I'll check/change the plugs this week. I can just use a spark plug socket and extension to get at them right, I won't have to remove anything in order to get at the plugs? -Thanks, Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffmknight Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Yeah the plug wires are pretty new, I got this car used so I inherited all of her underlying problems as well. I'll check/change the plugs this week. I can just use a spark plug socket and extension to get at them right, I won't have to remove anything in order to get at the plugs? -Thanks, Steve. I've been able to get at them with a plug socket on a 4 or 6" extension. If you have a wobble I hear that makes it easier, but it's up to you. You only have to remove the acoustic cover and the IMRC underneath it to do the front bank. Some say to remove the coil pack to do the rear bank, but it's never gotten in my way... Remember, change the plugs only when the motor is cool. And be sure to use dielectric grease on the connections and anti-seize on the threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rkctdwn Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 I've been able to get at them with a plug socket on a 4 or 6" extension. If you have a wobble I hear that makes it easier, but it's up to you. You only have to remove the acoustic cover and the IMRC underneath it to do the front bank. Some say to remove the coil pack to do the rear bank, but it's never gotten in my way... Remember, change the plugs only when the motor is cool. And be sure to use dielectric grease on the connections and anti-seize on the threads. Check for moisture down in the tube, if you have air-compressor, I usually blow out the hole/well before removing plugs. I also spray the my wires or at least the boots that go into the spark plug well with tire shine (basically silicone) away from the motor. You don't want to risk contaminating the O-2's. I still have the original wires 13 years in July. I've always kept the wires clean and handled carefully as possible--probably lucky also. If the engine has gotten sprayed with a hose water might be down the spay plug wells. I've had couple of friends that have had the #1 spark plug boot arc thru to the head. Sounded like the engine was knocking!!! I did a temporary fix for the one by applying a thin coating of clear or the black RVT is the best silicone let set up and push it down on the plug. No arcing they drove for 6 weeks no problem until had time to buy new wires. The weird part he had just paid to have new plugs and wires put on it! Go figure EH? Also from past experience notice that #1 boot starts arc the wires resistance will increase and best to replace it. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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