99 Contour Alternator

[jerrybburleson]

:fiddle: Thought I would post some hard learned lessons about backyard changing out an alternator on the 99 Contour. We lacked

 

basic instructions and no manuals and had limited tools. New car alternator removal is a far cry from the old days and the old

 

ways. What we learned---Remove battery ground wire and jackup and remove right front wheel. Remove front plastic inside splash

 

sheild(two bolts). Loosen two main alternator bolts(13mm) remove the front one(this is easily done from the top). The back one

 

must be loosened but does not need to be removed as it sits in a slot in the alternator bracket. Not knowing this on the first

 

attempt we cut the bolt because it hits on the fender well when you try and remove it. Loosen the two belt tensioner

 

bolts(10mm, accomplishing this might require accessing from both top and bottom of the vehicle depending on your tools). These

 

are difficult to get to but it can be done with basic combination wrenches. If you need to check or replace the belt tensioner

 

also remove the bolt on the idler pulley. We actually just backed it out a long ways without completely removing. The front

 

belt tensioner bolt will hit on the idler pulley if this is not done and the belt tensioner cannot be removed. With all these

 

out and your electrical connections removed the alternator should come out. It needs to be directed horizontally towards the

 

firewall and slightly up in the back. That rear alternator bolt sits in a slot that angles back and up. We pryed on the front

 

of the alternator directing it in a backward motion. Prying it up will cause it to hit the manifold. It is quite difficult to

 

get out. We had such problems on our first attempt that once and again we cut that rear bolt with a dremel tool and took it

 

completely out. We also were told that in extreme cases it might be necessary to cut an access hole in the fender well to

 

completely remove the rear bolt. Inspection revealed that there are two thicknesses of metal material comprising that section

 

of the fender well. A hole can be cut if necessary using a dremel tool with right angle attachment. We actually went that far

 

on our first attempt till we discovered the secret to the rear bolt. Viewing the fender well behind the front coil spring where

 

it appears that the access hole needs to be cut at first looks impossible. But remarkable things can be done with a dremel tool

 

and the razor thin cut-off wheels. Again this all is unneccessary if you know the right way to get it out but in a worse case

 

scenario( a stubborn or bent bolt) you might consider this route. All that should help you get the alternator out. When we went

 

to put the new one in we positioned the belt over all the pulleys except the top idler pulley. One man got under the car with

 

the rubber cushioned end of a claw hammer and pushed up on the idler pulley while a man above pulled the belt on over the idler

 

pulley. The new belt tensioner that we put on was very stiff but we learned that it can be done. Be careful pushing up on this

 

pulley as it is plastic. I am sure there are other tricks and better ways if you have good tools and perhaps a hydraulic

 

porta-power but it can be done this way. We got a Haynes auto manual but these little nuances were not covered there. I thought

 

I would post this for the benefit of others because we simply did not have any of this information in the beginning. The bolt

 

we cut unneccessarily costs about $8.00 or so. Lots of frustration and swearing and a round robin of six novices finally

 

prevailed. I would suggest for anyone attempting this proceedure that they go to Sears and invest in a ratcheting 10mm and 13

 

mm wrench and perhaps a 10 and 13 mm box end couple of wrenches as these will give you the extra reach to access the barely

 

accessable bolts dealt with.:fiddle:

[bmxcontour]

thanks for

 

the info. my alt. is coming up soon on my list of things to upgrade, so hopefully i can use your words of wisdom to help myslef

 

out. a good idea is to to invest in a belt tensioner tool for removing the belt. not too expensive and much easier than what

 

you described with the pry hammer. oh yeah, and since this is your 1st post, welcome to FCO!

 

Ben

[Chattavegas]

I see

 

someone has a v6, huh? Yeap, no way in hell I'd change the alternator on my car.

 

I'm on my second as well, but I had a shop do it.

[Stryker]

i have a

 

zetec, they are fairly simple...:exit:

[Chattavegas]

Try

 

changing the alternator on my '86

 

XT:

 

 

 

 

Ain't much to that, after you scrape off all the dirt. :fiddle:

[bmxcontour]

you need

 

to clean the engine on the XT....

 

Ben

[BuckeyeSVT]

Replacing the alternator on the V6 isn't as hard as it seems. I've done plenty of them and I'll share a little secret to

 

make things go easier.

 

Follow these steps:

 

Remove the negative battery cable.

Remove the right side

 

wheel/tire assy.

Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor (Use a small piece of coat hanger or other stiff wire to hold caliper

 

out of the way - DO NOT leave it HANG!)

Remove the strut pinch bolt.

Remove the ball joint pinch nut and

 

bolt.

Remove the Tie rod retaining cotter pin and nut ( and split rod end from spindle ).

Remove the ABS Speed sensor

 

retaining bolt and set sensor aside (if equipped).

Split ball joint from knuckle using a Ball Joint seperator (Be careful

 

not to tear into the grease boot or kiss the ball joint goodbye in no time).

Tap on the top of the spindle with a small

 

hammer to drive the knuckle from the strut.

Using a small bar, seperate the right side outer drive axle from the inner

 

drive shaft.

Pull whole axle / knuckle assy out as a unit and set aside.

 

Now, removing the alternator.

 

 

 

Remove the small connector (single wire) from the alternator.

Using a 10MM wrench remove the positive cable

 

from the alternator.

Using a 10MM remove the brace at the back of the alternator.

Using a 13MM remove the upper and

 

lower bolts holding the alternator to the bracket.

Using a little prybar, pull the alternator away from the bracket and

 

pull alternator through wheel well.

 

Installation is reverse of disassembly. Two tips however, One there are two

 

bushings on the alternator bracket that should be lightly tapped back to allow the alternator to slide in and fit easily on

 

re-installation. Doing this will save grief of getting alternator lined back up. Secondly, install a new circlip on the end of

 

the inner drive shaft to prevent grief down the road. I really don't replace them most of the time, but you have been warned!

 

If something weird occurs it is on you if you didn't replace it.

 

 

-Dom