1trick98se

Name: Ford Contour SE (1998) Date Added: 29 March 2007 - 11:18 PM Owner: 1trick98se Short Description: 3.0 2.5 hybrid with ross forged rods and pistons 10:2.1 compression, svt cams, svt uim & lim, svt tb, optimized 70mm maf accel 21 lb injectors, mild porting on the heads, balnced, dmd,msds headers and y pipe, custon exhaust, sct tunning, unfortunatly a cd4e equipped car,had the cd4e worked ovr by a good friend of mine at gear box dont really know what he did but have had no probs with it, koni ajustables with eibach springs ,22mm rear sway bar, custom 28mm front sway bar, unibody bracing to keep twist to a minimum, ajustable tubular rear suspension, a arm reinforcment plates, brembo cross drilled front and rear rotors ,willwood front calipers. eurathane bushings wherever possible, and a camber kit. View Vehicle

ok terry i will check it out and see because i would like to know for certain myself especially with myself tring to set up a direct account with them. like i said i have 2 days of work to get done befor i can attempt to put this trans in the car as soon as i get it uncrated and ready to go in ill post the #s

ill post it for you terry when i get it uncrated. i have about 2 days worth of work before im ready to put it in the car

i had to order mine through a friend of mines shop he had an account with the company. i am currently in the process of trying to set up an account with them and also arrainging for a group buy if possible ill keep you all posted as i get things hammered out. and how many and what price if i can get the group buy arranged. so ill post more once i get the account set up just sent the paper work in today ill know something here in a couple of days.

well i dont know the secret. but im glad to see the trunk and hood are on the market time to order me some.

i guess that is why i keep finding and buying up good used motors and transmissions every chance i get. a recent aquisition to my garage a 99 svt 2.5 with 28 k on the clock car was t- boned motor was good and ran when i pulled it out trans was shattered from the impact. point being good low milage parts are still out there if you are willing to look and get greasy. one thing you can count on if you are going to buy a single part might as well buy a second and throw it on a shelf for when that part needs to be replaced. its a matter of time untill some parts will no longer be available. it truely is a love hate relationship with these cars you love them when they are running good and hate them when they break. my point is you can find a good replacement motor with relitivly low milage to put in the car while that one is in you can fix the bad head gasket and do the machine work that is necassary and have another repalcement motor for when that one does break. so my point being is if you love the car fix it. and always be expecting something else to break. all you can do is maintain it and do previnative maint . hold your breath and say a few prayers that it will not break on you today.

ok 185 is the series of tire not rim with. which desinates the overall tread patch with. rimms are mesure in inches such as 15 inch tall by 7.0 inches wide and on some cars they use metric rims and tires.so if you are looking at the side wall of the tire you will se a series of numbers such as p 185 70 15 h translated 185 is the tread with 70 is the height of the side wall and 15 is the size of rim it fits h is the speed rating. a 185 will fit on a 6" wide wheel as will a 195 if you step up to a 205 you need to step up to a 7" wide wheel. the tour steel wheels were a 6" wide wheel their alloys were all 7" wide. bottom line you can mount a 195 series tire on the wheel without any leaks. ok refresher p 185 tread with 70 side wall height 15 size of wheel it fits h or hr speed rating

allready did and recieved it today shipping was $125.00 to my area may differ else were. but it is a new unit .

they are new not remans. they are not the euro spec but its an mtx 75 and the price is good.

well i have a 2.5 sitting in my garage with just a hair over 21,000 on it. although i wouldnt be willing to part with it. its going into my next project. or i might say my sons car. all though i did get rid of the stock rods and slugs in favor of a set of ross rods and slugs to elieviate the bering problem.. but mike is right junk the motor in favor of one with less milage or do a 3.0 swap you will have fewer probs with the 3.0. and the added benifit of more hp not much more but still more.im still a sucke and probably will be for a while to come. i just love driving my tour.

sounds like a perfect excuse to do a 3L swap to me. honestly its hard to say untill you tear into the motor. it could just be a blown head gasket or a warped head. what kind of milage do you have on it. it might be more sensible to just put a 3L in it and gain the performance benifits from that.. i know if it was me and the motor had over 120k on it id just ponie up for a new motor. or do the head gasket myself and save oh about $1800 after the purchase of the gasket set. although id spend the 1800 in beer while to eliviate the headace of doing the job and my wife would probbly commit me. useually there are no other probs as long as the head isnt warped. but its a tour and they have their demons(lol). if you are paying to do just the one side spend the money and have the other done so you dont have to repeat the job. but seriously id just spend a little more on a 3 lieter and end of headace.

shorter spring plus higher gas pressure and sifer valving = a harsh ride i think you would be very dissapointed in the ride quality. the set up i had on mine befor changing over to the konis were bat springs w spax struts. nice drop and a comfortable ride and improved the handling quite nicely. bat use to carry spax struts i havnt checked here latly to see if they still do. but a verry nice strut for the money

i had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be a broken ground strap. i come to a stop and the motor would roll slightly and it would die but start right back up. had me pulling what little bit of hair i have left out till i discovered it while changing out the alt.

well i would say that it is deffinatly the trans. what you didnt specifie is if it is an atx or an mtx. if it is the atx i would say the trans is due for a rebuild or replacement. if it is the mtx the clutch is slipping and you need to replace it. sorry for the bad news :(

bat use to carry spax struts you might try there

terry they are new according to the flier inset from the supplier i deal with. if they arnt let me know so i can drop them.

98 contour sport 2.5 atx 48,195 mi on the clock 4,000 mi on the build i built the car for the weekend car shows and to autocross.and to show there is more than rice out there that can be built. exterior mods: custom fibreglass front fenders custom fibregass hood andy's auto sport cd 27 body kit 35% drivers and pass front windows 35% windsheild w 5% sun buster(not legal but cool looking) 5% behind drivers seat custom nassau green and silver frost graphics custom mesh grill and bumper inserts suspension mods: eibach pro sport springs koni 5 way ajustable struts bat 21mm rear antisway bar front strut tower brace custom welded in rear strut tower brace energy suspension bushings custom bilitt end links reinforced a arms ajustable tubular rear trac arms welded in unibody x member and connecting plates ebc cross drilld and slotted rotors f/r willwood front calipers ebc red stuff pads bat camber kit voxx scrooze 17x8 with 42mm offset wheels falkin grb fk451 235-40-17 zr fornt falkin grb fk451 245-40-17 zr rear motor mods: 99 3.0 short block w ross pistons and rods 10:5.1 2.5 heads w svt cams st 250 springs 2000 svt lim and uim optimized svt tb 75mm maf 98 fuel rail with accel 28lbhr low impediance injectors sct xmod with pro race software (dyno tuned at st.louis stangs) custom built cd4e ( done by the guys at the gear box in st. louis) custom built b&m torq converter msds headers and y pipe cel eliminators brospeed 304 stainless exhaust bat short intake with functional ram air 1 quart accusump becool fan cooled trans cooler new engine harness and power distrabution (replace due to wire rot) 200 amp alt dmd royal purple synthetic fluids interior mods: body color mached trim bezals 96 center console with custom gauge pod w/4 sun pro gauges water temp/ oil temp/ trans temp/ voltage/ lotek pillar pod w oil pressure/ and 2 air meter bank 1 bank 2 serico millano gray leather racing buckets 5 point harnesses pioneer head unit massive componats massive 12" sub 2 massive amps p800.4 & p3000.1 massive 18 farad cap 4 psunami elite 600 deep cycle bateries ( spare tire well) 1 optima yellow top under the hood im shure there is something i have forgot. and im shure that ill take some ribbing for it being an atx car but i cant drive an mtx due to a prostetic leg. and i really hate to think about the $$$$$$ i have wraped up in this car. but i owe some special friends at a couple of my distributors big time for geting a couple of manufactuers to make some one off parts for me.

well i checked into ordering one for another project that i am currently working on and they did ask me to specifie the year and motor so aparantly they do have them for the 96 and up as well as the 95 and for the 2.0 and 2.5 they just put a brief description. oh well thought id toss it out there for my fellow enthusists

i just posted it to try and save a few people a little money nothing more. some dont have the budget that most people do. so save a couple of hundred on a new trans. its just an option for those of us that have few options on getting new parts for the tour.

well what most of you are over looking in this discussion is that most of the cars made to day including the tour all came with a light factory tint on the windows. 95% to 91%be exact. so when the law states that you are alowed 32% on drivers and passengers front roll ups that 5%to 8% has to be taken into account, so if the tinter puts a 32% FILM ON THE CAR YOUR WINDOWS ARE NOW ILLEGAL SEEING AS TO THE FACT THAT THEY WILL METER AT 27%to 24%. and yes now most state police are now carry meters in their cars. so if you do get you windows tinted ask the shop that is doing it if they meter the windows befor and after to make shure you are in compliance with the laws. and yes it is a pain in the bum but its better than a ticket. or the other option throwing away good money when you have to peel the tint and have your rear defroster fixed from the removal of the tint. words to think on. missouri law states metered 32% drivers and pass front windows, 5% behind them, no tint on winsheild except to the ase sun line aprox 6" most state laws are the same but check the laws in your state to be shur of them. there is nothing worse than have a cop ask you to step out of your car at gun point because he cannot see what you are doing.

i found a place that has brand new mtx 75's avilible for $450.00 im not shure what shipping will cost but here is the web address www.worldwidetransmissions.com

I have eibach springs with the koni ajustable struts and the bat 21mm rear anti sway an the bat camber kit and the car definatly handles better in the twist and turns. the ride is alot firmer but it doesnt beat your kidneys to death. it is a deffinat inprovement over the stock setup. not to mention the car looks better with the drop.

well it sound like it might be a cv joint does the noise increase when you turn the wheels at low speeds. if so then i would say it is the cv joints and you need to replace them,

well it could be crank position sensor cam position sensor, bad ecu, or all of the above, or it could also be the pats anti theft, there are alot of possibilities. is the cel light on and if so what codes is it showing. how did you test for spark, when you crank it over does the cel flash. is the anti theft light on or flashing in the crank position

terry looks like he put the upper strut mounts on up side down .only a guess with out looking at my hains.