asmoto05 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 I have had my ported 3l one the road for almost a year now. She has been running lean in bank one and two. There is also an egr code and a bank two o2 sensor. I have sprayed for leaks changed tps,maf, all new uim and lim gaskets. While I had her apart I cleaned the lim, she was crusted bad. Could there be a leak in the rod gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Have you ever had a new chip or recalibration since the 3.0 was fitted?..what are rod gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 No since I did a ported 3l I didn't think I needed a retuned. And sorry was refuring to the rods that rum through the secondaris the were carbon covered open. And I cleared them so they would open and installed them on my 3l and now the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 ...OK, so I will make the following assumptions about your 3.0 engine.. *Is an oval port 3.0(heads) but with adaptor plates to fit the 2.5 LIM and 2.5 UIM.. If so I have seen many of these that develop vac leaks on those plates.There is no type of formed gasket on these plates and one side usually just has gasket goop on the metal to metal faces for a seal..this is not a good design and can fail with vac leaks..Am I correct on specs so far?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 Yes sir, I used bugzokie plates to cut the head. Then a black rtv sealant to seal the plates down. Also replacing the lim and uim gaskets. The only gaskets I didn't replace the exhausted ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I'm not sure how thick those plates are but a better design would have a m/c groove round the port side to accept the ford 'o ring' style gasket. The RTV is not a good choice in this location and,due to the bolt spacing/clamping,does not appy enough pressure on a thin film of RTV..a stronger,thicker set in o ring would work better .As is used on some of the 3.0 oval plastic LIMs.. I think I would check your plates for leaks.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 +1 for not being a fan of those plates and trying to make the intake seal with RTV. All this is done on an SVT correct? -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Yes sir. I have gone over everything else a couple of times with no luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 ...how thick are those plates?..I'm sure we could set them up on the CNC mill and m/c the groove top/bottom to take a correct 'set in' Ford gasket..or make a better plate for the job!! A metal to metal with gasket goop gives no compression to the gasket at all..over time it will fail..again and again..RTF is not good for this application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spridget Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 The conversion isn't finished until it's retuned, regardless of what you have heard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 I know they aren't a popular choice over here. Plates are about 3/32" thick. Then what else could o try to gain a better seal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 ...if they are 3/32 then that is less that 3 MM and way too thin to be stiff enough to have a good seal between bolt positions..a 3/8 plate with a m/c 'o' ring groove would be better. But you maybe able to run a very clean bead of Si around the port on the heads..and leave it for a while to cure off and give some thikness of material to be compressed..then just a thin smear of Si on the plate then assemble and leave at least 24 hrs to cure...it may work but anything with such thin plates is a risk. Maybe others who have used these plates have fixed this...JB weld??!!!...who knows,I'd ask around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 I have read up on as many options as I can. I have seen others who have used jb weld to fill in the injector valley. But truely would it hold up? Then the plates weren't necessary. SI what is that? Would like to get it straightened out cause overall she runs excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 ..SIlicone...The plate design needs a positive type seal on it's lower face..gasket goops etc are only a band aid for a design that needs to be taken to the 'next level' of improvement... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 To bad there wasn't a way to take the old lim gasket set and mod one side just for the side against the heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 9, 2011 Share Posted March 9, 2011 ..if the plates had the correct size groove then an O ring type gasket can be made that will fit the unique size port. O ring sets have been around for years.The O ring material is on a roll and can be cut/spliced/joined to fit in most all shapes of opening..does not have to be round. It's just engineering to cut the grooves etc..Not that big of a deal for CNC m/c equiptment..We have done it here on many strange one off parts that need a seal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 OK first would the SI be able to hold up to heat? And could you take the grey gasket paper you can get at an auto store and trace out the plate shape . Then place a line of si around it virtually making a gasket set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 *Most all Si gasket makers in tubes ate high temp Re Permatex 'ultra black' Hi-temp RTV silicone gasket maker*Si is used all over the place as it resists heat well8The stoc 3.0 'o' ring type gaskets on the plastic manifolds are Si* The 'inlay' on the 2.5 intake manifold gaskets is Si *Paper/sheet type materials will not work well in this location, they are too thin and too hard. The port seal area is large and has few bolts to hold it..in this type of situation a softer but thicker material needs to be used... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 OK I picked up a tube of the ultra copper high temp rtv silicone. I am gonna try it this weekend when I can keep the car tore down for a couple of days. I changed my oil this last weekend and now she seems to idle decent. But when you come to a stop she stalls or wants to stall. This has started since the oil change, and the oil level is good I am just lost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Well this last weekend I pulled her all apart and redid my plates. I am currently getting two codes p0156, and p0171. Now could those two be inter connected? And she idles great now have had one bad spell but overall mega improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Sounds like you are still too lean on Bank One (rear bank) (P0171) and the Bank 2 lower O2 sensor (near transmission on front manifold lower) is non functional or reading incorrectly. You are aware that Silicone kills O2 sensors right? Most say on the tube if they are O2 sensor safe.. if not, you may have cooked the whole lot of them. Those plates are really adding up to be worth it aren't they? -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 (edited) I am working on an upgraded set at work. Having them cut a set on the plasma cutter. About a 1/4" thick then grove one side for a gasket to be laid into it. I used the ultra copper sealant and believe it was o2 friendly. First time ultra black high temp rtv and both brands were permatex. I have tried doing a decent job on her by myself only seen one other svt where I live. Edited March 23, 2011 by asmoto05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asmoto05 Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 Oh one more thing can I try cleaning the o2 sensor with the same stuff you use one a mass air flow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 Short answer without laughing, no. O2 sensors only get really cleaned by one thing - Heat. I normally cherry them with a torch to burn off garbage collected on the outside cage. Otherwise, toss it - It's not repairable or "cleanable" with spray solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Haines Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 ..dare I ask but what does the company that makes these plates say about sealing etc in the fitting instructions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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