Terry Haines

...hold up!!..First off to remove the tensioner arm assy on a V6 is a bear..the torx bolt in the middle will give you problems. First of remove the belt and check the bearings for wear and noise on ALL the idlers...the tensioner hardly ever fails and the spring fits into the front timing cover..If the tensioner moves OK and 'springs' when you use a 3/8 drive on it and the bearings are OK leave it alone...

...this sounds like it 'could' be a fuel pump related issue..on a 99,if you have a single feed fuel system(returnless)..the pumps tend to go out.

..my data shows ISC resistance 6 to 14 ohms.On the t/body...many have cleaned these with no ill effects..

...good catch on cleaning the t/body. Also sounds like you don't have a vac leak...if you did it usually shows at idle...that is the point of highest manifold vac..

...My 2 cents on this would be...a wiring issue. 'Maybe' you have some failing insulation inside the harness which could,when harness is moved to change module/parts etc cause the issue to go away but,over time, the harness relaxes and the fault returns..I know it may seem a long shot but I have seen many weird issues that end up being the wire harnesses...

..from memory I think the last time I changed one it was from the top..still a PIA to get to. If you have a rough idle have you checked out all the PCV lines for vac leaks and bad hoses,they fall apart on the PCV vent line . This has been reason #1 for bad idle and vac leaks that I have found over the years...

....be sure the belt is 'on' all of the grooves in the crank pulley and not 'part way' on...if that is OK then an idler or tensioner bearing may be worn causing the belt to 'walk'...

...that is some history you have with the car...and it is in fantastic shape . When I see a 95 in such good condition..I still get a shiver when I think of all the trials and tribulations it took, from 1989> 1995 ..to drag that car..and Ford USA management..to production...What a fight it all was in both engineering and ideas ...Even now the 'look' of the car is ageless....Not many of us 'older' CDW27 guys around now....Such happy times....

...start with the short 'stab bar links'..the small bush at the bar end tends to wear out and rattle...and/or the rubber 'top hats' at the suspension arm end can also cause a noise..

...are we talking alternator belt or water pump belt?

..the MTX75 lube spec was changed some years ago. ATF is no longer the correct lube for any manual MTX75

...be sure you check all of the PCV lines from the block to the intake manifold.The rubber hoses and connections tend to rot out and cause major vac leaks and bad idle quality..

..the eec is the electronic engine control module.It controls all vehicle systems so I doubt it has a problem but the sensor and wiring are usually at fault on these cars..A dealer should know the correct part of the non gauge sensor..

...the engine has two temp sensors,one for the gauge and the other for the eec..it is the eec sensor that triggers the fan not the gauge sensor. From what you have said about the harness condition it could be that causing the problem..I'd try a new temp sensor then focus on the wiring circuit for the fans...

Nice find. Car looks to be in very good condition.

At 136,000 I'm sure all 4 02 sensors are tired and slow. First I would change all 4. 02 sensors..the pre cat meltdown issues have long gone, I have seen this many times ..in most all cases new 02 sensors is the cure...

Drain is passenger side,below where the r/h drive shaft leaves the cases..Fill is on front face of trans behind rad halfway up case. 8 mm allen wrench. Oil , Motorcraft fully synth man trans oil # XT-M5-QS or 'Royal Purple 'HPS 10W-40'

..over this Memorial Day weekend and my best wishes and regards to all members and family..TH

..usual sign of a bad pump or bad circulation is hot engine but a cold heater...

...a bad wire on the oil pressure sensor that touches ground will flash on the light...,it's a 'ground on' circuit. Check the wire from the sensor first..I mention this because too much 'engine rock' when you go into reverse could be causing a wire to rub/ground out. Worth a check first.

Blanket Statement...ALL years of Ford Contour can,and do, over several years..have major issues with the wiring harnesses. Whare to start??...The heavy red '+' feeds from the battery to the fuse box is a common area of insulation breakdown...after that it could be 'anywhere'...Shorts,loss of insulation etc have been reported by owners in most every wire harness location under the hood..

...looking under the hood..at the l/h side of firewall..just down and behind the a/c charge point is the plastic purge sol..it opens to allow gas fumes from can at back under spare wheel well to bleed fumes into the intake manifold via the top of the pcv valve...any leak in the lines from can to purge sol and from purge sol to pcv connection could trigger a code .

..P0455 could be the gas tank cap seal or one of the rubber lines at the back from the evap cans or at the front where the purge sol is located..

...the EEC only 'calls' for egr in a light cruse and decal modes..it does not feed egr all the time..

..not too sure of the issue but the basics are this..When the EEC 'calls' for egr it triggers the vac sol which in turn sends vac to the large EGR valve on the intake manifold. 'If' the DPFE sensor does not sense 'flow' then it will trigger a CEL. main issues with the DPFE are 1)blocked passages on the intake manifold behind the t/body to the EGR valve, carbon build up is usually the cause here or 2) the DPFE sensing lines, 2 small tubes connected to the main EGR tube from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve..3)EGR valve itself is not operating..this can be checked by disconnecting the vac line to the egr valve and block the vac feed tube then start the engine and use a vac pump to open the egr valve..if the engine stumbles then the egr valve is working... Other faults can be ..egr elect sol not opening, vac tubes broken, dpfe sensor not operating. All electrical connections on dpfe, vac sol should be checked ...Don't jump tests ...get to the root cause before fitting any parts..