Rick09 Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Anyone Good with Ford Cars What is the hard to solve problem? 2000 Ford Contour SE 4 cylinder ABS -- front wheel drive....when I accelerate pass 50 mph OR when I use my brakes the left side starts to vibrate, sometimes I can hear & feel something grinding in the pedals if I'm just driving on the street... - I have changed the tires with new tires, resurface rotors - brake pads, motor mounts, transmission mounts with new parts. - just recently had CV half shaft & wheel bearing on the left side changed , and that made the vibration more noticeable... - Now if i turn the wheel all the way left and drive -- it makes this grinding metal vs.metal, or cranking (kinda loud), but the cv shaft and wheel bearing (with wheel bearing grease) on the left side have been replaced with new parts. I have been trying to figure out this problem since 2007 .....Anyone Know what the problem is here? - I have asked this on Y! Answers before but didn't really get answers.... I need to fix this problem before it leaves me stuck on the freeway,...every time i drive the car, I start thinking that wheel will just fly off or lock up when l'm going on the freeway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrewChiefPro Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Does it make the same noise/vibration coasting? Check to be sure the wheel is not bent. Check the rotor runout, at the same time check to see if the CV joint rotates smoothly. Sounds like something simple that is not getting checked, they are just throwing parts at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imadrid Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) have you checked the alignment or the arm bushings? Edited October 25, 2009 by imadrid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Could be a loose brake caliper, or perhaps one that is not really centered... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTDEMON Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Who did the brakes?Which CV joints inner or outer? When was the last time an alignment was done?Need more info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick09 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) Who did the brakes?Which CV joints inner or outer? When was the last time an alignment was done?Need more info! ------- My dad who is a mechanic,change the brake pads. he works in a body shop. I had this problem before he replace the brake pads even had the rotors resurface hoping this would fix the problem n it didn't...I had the complete cv halft shaft - the whole arm that goes from the wheel/rotor to the transmission replaced With a new part And I still have that problem. I tOok it for a computerized alignment Earlier this year And the guy said the car didn't need one because it was already good. Edited December 21, 2009 by Rick09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick09 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 have you checked the alignment or the arm bushings? How to check if arm bushings are good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick09 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Does it make the same noise/vibration coasting? Check to be sure the wheel is not bent. Check the rotor runout, at the same time check to see if the CV joint rotates smoothly. Sounds like something simple that is not getting checked, they are just throwing parts at it. I switch with other tires n the problem stays on front left side. How do I check rotor runout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckeyeSVT Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 If I read correctly you said the rotor is grinding against the metal rotor bracket? If so, you have some type of flex in the hub. This can be caused by a loose wheel hub bearing, a hub nut that is not properly tightened or in severe cases a powertrain misalignment causing the axle shaft to be in a position where there is deflection on the hub. I would go for the hub bearing first, as that's the fixed point keeping the hub and rotor straight inside the bracket. If the car was wrecked or even tapped a curb the hub/spindle could have an issue causing your issue. Good luck, -Dom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick09 Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 If I read correctly you said the rotor is grinding against the metal rotor bracket? If so, you have some type of flex in the hub. This can be caused by a loose wheel hub bearing, a hub nut that is not properly tightened or in severe cases a powertrain misalignment causing the axle shaft to be in a position where there is deflection on the hub. I would go for the hub bearing first, as that's the fixed point keeping the hub and rotor straight inside the bracket. If the car was wrecked or even tapped a curb the hub/spindle could have an issue causing your issue. Good luck, -Dom I dont know what is causing the vibration and grinding noise....I have changed many parts and still have this problem...I put the question with all the symptoms, hoping someone would know what the problem is.....I was told the front wheels don't have a hub assembly....For some reason Auto zone and O'Reily auto parts don't have the hub assembly for the front wheels but the car has a hub in front for the wheel bearing to fit in, I don't understand this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVTDEMON Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 (edited) I dont know what is causing the vibration and grinding noise....I have changed many parts and still have this problem...I put the question with all the symptoms, hoping someone would know what the problem is.....I was told the front wheels don't have a hub assembly....For some reason Auto zone and O'Reily auto parts don't have the hub assembly for the front wheels but the car has a hub in front for the wheel bearing to fit in, I don't understand this... MILE MARKER SUPREME SERIES LOCKING HUB, STAINLESS STEEL -- 1.50 Axle OD, Features The Latest Patented Technology, With Internal Bolts And 35 Splines, With Manufacturer's Limited Lifetime Warranty Mile Marker Universal Product Locking Hub - Mile Marker M20459SS This is what Dom was talking about I think. Lift the vehicle at the correct wheel by placing the jack head onto a frame rail and pumping the lever until the wheel is in the air. Place a jack stand at the same location on the frame rail for extra support. Step 2Unscrew the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set it aside. Step 3Remove the caliper by unplugging it from the wiring harness at the adapter plug and unscrewing the twin rear mount bolts. The caliper will then slide off of the rotor. Set the caliper on the control arm, or support it with ties, but do not allow it to dangle by the brake line. Step 4Remove the rotor by turning the center spindle nut counterclockwise, then pulling the rotor free. Some models will have attached, one-piece rotor/hub assemblies, but most do not. Set the rotor aside. Step 5Unscrew the four hub mount bolts directly behind the rotor. The assembly will slide off of the axle. Step 6Replace the hub assembly by positioning it onto the axle and tightening the four mount bolts. Replace the rotor, if applicable, by pressing it to the hub and turning the spindle nut clockwise. Step 7Replace the caliper by sliding it over the rotor, then securing the rear mount bolts. Reattach the wiring harness by plugging the adapter into the caliper's socket. Step 8Replace the wheel by tightening the lug nuts in an alternating pattern. Remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle. Step 9Repeat the entire process on the opposite hub Edited December 21, 2009 by SVTDEMON Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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